987687
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Posts posted by 987687
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You can reach in there with a wrench and get to the bleeders, usually 10mm in the front 8mm in the back. It's kind of a pain on a Legacy because they're low, but possible. DO NOT BREAK THE BLEEDERS OFF!!!!!! Especially the back ones are small and like to break off if they're at all rusty, go slow, use heat, use PB blaster, whatever. Don't break them. Trust me. If the bleeder is missing the little condom cap thing and no fluid is coming out, take it all the way out and use a piece of wire to clean the dirt out of it.
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Haha, maybe I can do that
It's certainly a tank, I have studded tires on it and it's RIDICULOUSLY fun in the snow. Really well planted... until I downshift and spool up the turbo, then it's power over steer all day long 
I had to replace a CV axle and I have to say, I'd rather do that job on a subaru... Pulling the diff cover to get the c-clip out is kind of annoying. The biggest issue is when there's only one diesel/gas pump at a gas station with some dumbass parked there inside taking a spoob....
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I agree, it's probably the neutral safety acting up, I had the same problem on one of my cars. If you're in a pinch to get the engine started, jump a piece of wire from a positive terminal (battery or starter) to the spade connector on the starter. That should start the engine so you can move the car.
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Next time you have the engine out and wanna tighten the crankshaft bolt, thread a 12'm bolt into the flywheel/flex plate. Use a box end wrench and the bellhousing stud to get those flywheel or flex plate bolts tight,or the aforementioned crankshaft bolt
I always use the screwdriver method, use a skinny flat blade screwdriver stuck through the hole in the picture. It works for flexplates, too. Just stick it through the cutout area for the TQ bolt access.
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If you press the brake pedal down and use a stick or whatever between the pedal and the seat it will keep fluid from draining out of the master cylinder. Holding the pedal down closes the port between the MC and the reservoir keeping fluid from draining out. Remember it'll keep your brake lights on, so unhook the battery or remove the horn fuse, which the brake lights are also on.
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Line up the valve stem with the valve stem indent on the hub cap, then just press it onto the wheel. I usually take a rubber mallet and tap them into place. There's a metal hoop in the hubcap that seats on the inside of the steel rim. If you don't have stock steel rims or they aren't stock hubcaps maybe they just aren't compatible. A picture would help if you still can't get it.
Or do you mean the little center caps in the middle of an alloy rim? In that case, there are a few different ones that look the same..
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Hood release cable works as a throttle, kinda awkward to use, but hey. Just make sure to rig up a way to get your hood open again
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I bet the builder didn't check valve clearances and that one was way too tight. Shoddy work is the worst.
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You can only see the valves from inside the combustion chamber, you can see the valve stem and seal from the exhaust port, but that won't tell you much. If it was rebuilt recently there's a chance the mechanic might honor his work, it's pathetic to rebuild an engine and have it blow up...
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As I said, rebuild usually doesn't actually mean a rebuild... Usually it's just headgaskets. Sadly there are a lot of scam artists in the automotive repair industry. If the rest of the car is in good condition, your best course of action is to do a 2.2 swap. Long story short a 2.2 from a 95 automatic legacy is the best option, but there is a lot of information on this forum on exactly what you need.
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You can adjust the DOHC valve clearance, you just need to pull the cams out and swap the lifter shims.... It's a horrible pain in the car.
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Oh shoot, you said 99 ej25, I stupidly assumed you meant a single cam, when you said plugs sucked to change I realized you may have a dual cam motor... Both were available depending on legacy/impreza.
If you have the dual cam motor you can't actually set the valve lash with adjusters, you have to take the cams out and it's a horrible mess... You can still check them, though. Pulling the cover is a lot easier than changing the plugs.
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Well, if it's missing on cylinder 4 at idle it may very well be because of a tight exhaust valve or incorrect valve timing (timing belt off). Since 2 and 4 are on the same bank I can understand why it would run more smoothly on just 1 & 3 than with 4 misfiring and 2 firing. So that's not entirely odd in my mind.
Since the engine seems to pick up at higher speeds/loads it probably isn't a bad spark plug or wire, that usually points to either valve timing, valve clearance, or a burned valve. I have heard of burned valves on n/a engines, if you look around you'll find treads on it, but it isn't at all common.
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I'm not clear on what you mean the suction stopped when you pulled the wire on #2 injector. Did the engine run any different when you pulled the #4 injector plug? If not, you've isolated it to that cylinder. It's not unheard of for these engines to burn an exhaust valve, but it certainly isn't the first place I'd go checking. First off, what do you mean by rebuilt, it had headgaskets done? That's usually what people mean when they say a subaru engine was rebuilt.
First off clarify what you mean on pulling the injector wires. If pulling the wire doesn't change how it runs, clearly that's the problem cylinder. Since someone was in there mucking around it might be worth pulling the valvecovers and checking the exhaust valve clearances. If they're too tight you could have burned a valve. The other thing you should definitely check is the timing timing belt timing. If you have a loose or failing tensioner you could have jumped time on one of the cams or crank.
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90's up to 04 outbacks, legacy GTs, RS, and foresters have 4.44 automatics. I'm sure something after 04 does too, but those are harder to adapt due to more electrowizzardry. The only 4.44 manual in the US market is the 04-05 forester XT.
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Flashing CEL means you have a persistent misfire. What's the history of your misfire and what have you done to remedy it? You're missing a lot of the story that might help us figure out the issue.
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The same way you leakdown any other car? Pull all the spare plugs, then you need to find TDC of the compression stroke in cylinder 1. You can either use the method where you stick a finger over the plug hole to find TDC or pull the left timing cover cap. When the arrow on the cam gear points straight up you're at TDC of the compression stroke in #1. After that, every 180 degrees of rotation of the crankshaft you'll get to TDC of compression stroke of the next cylinder in the firing order, 1-3-2-4.
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Not a Subaru, but this repair can be used on anything with CV axles. I bought a Mercedes sight unseen 1000 miles away and picked it up with some friends. Along with a verity of issues, it had a torn axle boot. I packed the axle with grease then cleaned the outside of the torn boot and cup really well. I used several feet of duct tape wrapped around the axle boot with some zip ties to hold it in place. That repair held for 3000 miles until I finally replaced the axle.
Friend blew out a strut tower driving down logging roads in northern Maine. I had a chainsaw and some ratchet straps... He drove about 50 miles out of the logging roads and another 200 miles home like that.
I'll have to think about all the rest of the redneck stuff I've done to get cars home...
At a rallyx once a friend got a rock in his rim and it actually bend the mounting tab on the knuckle where the caliper bracket bolts. The caliper bracket was hitting the rotor so I took about a foot of stainless bailing wire and wrapped it around the bolt making it into a washer. That spaced the bracket out far enough it stopped hitting the rotor. He drove like that for weeks..
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I don't think the ABS wire is too short. If it is just unplug the harness, follow the wire up to the inner fender and there's a plug somewhere The ABS sensor DOES NOT have to come out, do not try, you'll almost certainly break it .
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What's wrong with it? When the alternator died in my 96 it was just bad brushes. I got new brushes from an alternator rebuild shop and had it working again for like $5
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The thing is, she just had the oil changed at an indy shop that I .... uhhh let's just say have serious beef with. It says they used 5 quarts of synthetic 0w20, but I wanted to check to make sure they didn't have their head up their rump roast. I was kinda surprised when I saw NO oil, but let it sit overnight and it was fine. So confused there.
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First thing is to put the timing back where it belongs, and check to make sure you actually have it correct. Sounds to me like it's off.
Check the resistance of the crank sensor. It's the same sensor as the cam sensor, so they should be ballpark the same. If it's way off the sensor might be going bad.
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A 95 isn't an interference engine, so you can't crash pistons on valves no matter what you do. It has hydraulic lash adjusters, so if they weren't pumped the valves would open later than expected until oil pressure built up.
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Is it normal for the oil level of a crosstreck to read very low after it has been running? Checked it in the morning on level ground and it was at the full hole, but after running the engine and letting it sit for a few minutes there's barely a drop on the dip stick
It's not a loyale, so I'm lost here.
Going Megasquirt on a ej22
in Turbo Engine Tech ('91 and newer)
Posted
If it has the funny shaped valve covers and the spark plugs don't go through the covers, it would have originally had an ignitor.
If it has the smooth valve covers with spark plugs going through them, it would have not had an ignitor, so logic based.
If you're going with megasquirt just use the style that's easiest to interface. You can grab the logic based kind off 2000+ ej25 or even use GM coil off plug setups.