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The main reason I can see it being illegal is engine fire. If your engine catches fire under the hood, the fire will be somewhat contained, without a hood it'll be a lot more violent a fire because it'll get all the air it wants.

I ratchet strapped a hood to the roof of my GL a little while ago. Got it nice and tight and it didn't go anywhere. I've transported a small boat on the roof of my car for a 600 mile drive, and some other weird things on the roofs of my cars for long distances with strange looks aplenty and nary a issue.

I've had calipers rust inside and cause them not to retract... It was a back brake on my Legacy, but a caliper is a caliper. All I did was pump it all the way out, disconnect the brake line, and squeeze the piston back in again. This obviously squirted all the brake fluid out, and an ALARMING amount of rust!! The rust wouldn't go out the bleeder screw, but holy hell did it come out of the piston. Very very nasty. I did this a few times until it was clear, put it back together, bled it. And I've never had an issue with that since. The moral of that to me at least, was that I needed to take better care of my braking system so such things don't happen again.

I fixed my check engine light with electrical tape! Works great! Haven't had a problem with it coming on since

As Loyale said, check your cables, grounds, etc. Ignition switch is the same for ea82 cars all the way till at least 2nd gen Legacys, maybe later. But That's the range I've swapped between. Probably isn't that though. When you turn the key to start, and it doesn't start. What does happen? Do you hear a loud CLICK from the starter motor? If that's the case, it's probably worn starter contacts. Pretty easy to fix, there's a guide on here somewhere. If that doesn't solve the problem it's because the solenoid is getting low voltage. Just old wiring. I've seen a few threads on this issue, and have it myself in my GL. Solution is to add a relay to give the solenoid battery voltage when you turn the key. Also documented on here.

And so what if you do burn out your contacts? Last time I bought a set was for an EJ starter, but they're almost the same. And I think I spent $7 at the dealer or something. And on my GL I can have a starter out, replace the contacts, and back in again in less than an hour.

I have like 3 spare starters in my garage, and one in my trunk. Whatever

I've always wanted to do this too in my 2nd gen. I'm actually surprised the wires aren't there. My legacy L has wiring for stuff it doesn't have... Like it has all the wiring for heated mirrors, and other stuff it didn't come with.

Why not turn the car off at long lights? I do. I turn my car off at lights, drive through at the bank when I know I'll have to wait a while, etc. It saves the engine, gas, the environment. There's nothing wrong with my car, but I still shut it off when I'm going to have to wait a while. I'm quite often stuck in down hill stop-and-go traffic. So I'll shut it off there too.

There's a good reason it turns off the radio, and I'd leave it to work the way it's designed. The reason it turns off the radio is because when cranking the starter uses tons of amps. And it doesn't use the power evenly, in spikes up and down every time the starter has to compress a piston. This causes a very unstable electrical system while the engine is cranking, so leaving the radio on while cranking the can damage it. Also, the lighter plug is turned off while cranking for the same reason, whatever you have plugged into it can be damaged by the unstable power it gets. The ECU is obviously designed to tolerate the engine cranking, but everything else is turned off for protection. To avoid causing electrical problems by fixing something that's not broken, leave it alone. Also, a note on the clutch thing. There's really no reason to start your car in gear... Even starting with the transmission in neutral and the clutch engaged puts more load on the starter because it has to turn the engine AND the transmission. That little bit extra wear on the starter over time could very well wear it out a lot quicker.

As GD said, replacing the bearing isn't very difficult. Getting the alt apart though... Is a little bit of a pain in the rump roast. I took an old EJ one apart to replace the reg. Just make sure you mark everything for re-assembly, takes a lot of the guess work out of it.

I actually had that happen on a CRAPA axle I put in over the summer.

Ultimately to confirm if it's the driveshaft or not, put it in FWD. Since the driveshaft won't spin in 2wd with just the front wheels off the ground the noise should go away. U-joints usually make more of a clunking noise than a squeaking noise. It could also be the carrier bearing. You'll know for sure if it's the rear driveline though if you jack up the front and do your same test in FWD.

Yea, I'll see what I have for spare bits laying around. The problem is now I don't have very much time OR money. The lineworker program I applied for just informed me I need a CDL by fall of next year. So yesterday I called up the program near me, and they said they had a class today.... So a sort of un-expected steep drop in money and time.

Sweetness.Thanks. I completely forgot to look in the old USRM I'll pick away at this. Yesterday I signed up for truck driving school... that starts TODAY!! And I have to work 20 hours this weekend... hah. A little unexpected. But I'll definitely keep updated on this. I want my blower back to normal!

Thanks so much!

Sorry, I should have said what my car is. It's an 89. They just don't last around here because they rust out so bad. I did a search, through the USRM and everything and didn't find what I'm looking for. I'm also toying with the idea of making a PWM controller and just putting a variable knob in...

So my blower only works on 3&4. And unfortunately there aren't many loyales in junk yards around me. I've met 3 and all of them had blown resistor blocks. What I'm wondering is, what are the resistances of the coils? I have some resistor wire (whatever it's called, like the stuff that's there from the factory). And if someone could tell me what the original resistances are I could easily just cut some wire to length, coil it up, solder it on, and it would be done. Or I could just solder in a solid state resistor, either way, I'd like to know what the original values are. Or, do EJ ones have similar resistor values? EJs are a lot easier to find, even if I have to solder wires and fab something up to fit the thing in there, I just want it to work. Having the fan on 3 all the time gets annoying .... Thanks

Does it stop, or change when you put it in 4wd? When my driveshaft was going out the clunking sound went away when I was in 4wd because the driveshaft has different force on it when it's being driven. It would come back if I stepped on it on a slippery surface, but the fact that going into 4wd changed the noise lead me to the driveshaft.

205/75/14 tires are wicked hard to find. And when I find them they're always expensive because they're not common.

When people don't like my car, I feel smugly superior because they don't know what they're missing.

When I saw the thread title I though drifting in snow... My sedan drifts nice in snow in 4wd with the ea81.... Find some snow

I've broken a punch off in an axle roll pin hole... That sucked to get out. It's hard to imagine it's not just wicked rusted in there. I can't believe someone actually pounded hard enough on the pin to get it in 180* off. I've put axles on 180* off on accident and not noticed until I hit the pin and it won't budge.

I have a CEL for evap and EGR. Dunno if the evap works, but the EGR does work. It opens and closes... That's about all it's supposed to do. Car runs just fine though. My CEL is also on for about 5 other reasons, I fixed it with electrical tape

2" lift. 205/75/14 tires on alloy pugs. No bashing, it's a tight fit, but no rubbing. I do have a load, so that's probably lowering it a little bit more than when there's no boat on the roof