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That sounds really awesome... Not that I want a leak in my car.... but soap bubbles coming out of my vents?? Thanks for all the advice guys!! Tomorrow afternoon when I get off work I'll have at it and see what I find!!

OMG wow! That's beautiful!! Really, really nice work there. I love it.

Contacts are the first thing I'd do because they're easy. Also clean all the connections to the starter. Ground and positive on the battery, the positive lead on the starter, and the grounds to the engine, and the power to the solenoid. Bad connection in any of those could cause starting issues. Another problem that I've seen crop up here, and I've had on my GL is the ignition switch. If the contacts in the switch itself are wearing out it can cause a low voltage to the solenoid, enough for it to click, but not enough for it to connect the circuit to start the engine. I just put in a different ignition switch I had laying around. The other option is to add a relay to give power right from the battery to the solenoid.

My 89GL has contracted this weird issue. After a decent rain it leaks water out of the passenger side dash. I'm not exactly sure where it's coming from, but the floor is always wet. It's coming from the HVAC system probably. And when I go up a steep hill (my driveway is a very steep hill) water pours out in a huge deluge on my passenger's feet. I have 2 conclusions... 1. water is getting in and it isn't supposed to. And 2. That drain hose that comes out of the heater core box and goes out the bottom of the car is supposed to drain water, but is blocked or something. So what's the deal here? How can I stop this leakage? It's pouring rain today so I'll try and see where it's coming from to help the diagnostic. Thanks for help.

Quite possible .... Did you move move the joins through their motions before installing it? My latest napa axle I spent a few minutes extending and contracting the DOJ, putting it through it's motions before it was on the car and it's still lasting... Maybe that got the grease better worked in? maybe I just got lucky and got a good napa axle? dunno. But it's worth a try next cheap axle you get.

As Gloyale said, I've had brand new (not reman) axles from parts stores click right out of the box.

Some cars just like the CEL... Especially if you have an EGR computer with a non-EGR engine... There's also my GL. It has a total of 7 codes, but runs wonderfully. About the OBD2 thing, I've heard other members saying they get slightly better gas milage. Being a 95 your legacy is the first year of OBD2, but the wiring is just a bit weird. Different colours, etc.

If I was in your situation I'd probably get another 2nd gen legacy with blown engine/transmission, suspension, etc. Since you have a good engine/tranny and good suspension (except the back right) you could just swap it all over and have a good working car. Probably the easiest and fastest way to get a working car out of what you have.

According to wikipedia. After the HLA engine in the 96 outback they went to bucket shims. In the phase one DOHC engine. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ25

Looks like serious damage to me. The C pillar is bent, not only does it look bent, but the very back window is broken. And the impact was a couple inches below it. On top of that the B pillar appears bent as well. The passenger's side window doesn't look like it's seating very well and the bottom looks slightly bent in. Not that it isn't fixable, it would just be a crapton of work and expense to the point where it probably isn't worth it.

After doing some reading, only the 96 ej25 used HLAs. 97 on up went to bucket shims. It musta been a 96 DOHC I was toying with then ... So yes, you need to adjust them

I'm pretty sure the last one I took apart had hydraulic adjusters... I could be confusing that with another engine. I'm really sorry if I'm wrong on this

up till, and including 99. Sorry.

The ej25 wasn't solid until phase 2. Phase 1 up till 99 was hydraulic.

In most states if the light is there, it has to work. In my state that means blinkers, reverse lights, front and back parking lights, and head lights. All MUST works. I have a switch to turn on my reverse lights, and in Maine that's fine. As long as they work.

Used my car to assist clearing some property to get ready for a road to be put in, building site, etc. Pulled a lot of big logs, rocks, etc. Here it resting watching the fire. Ran over a lot of little trees and whatnot... So I guess I did negative work on my car today because I effed up the driver's side quarter panel. Nothing a BFH and my welder can't fix

Having a CEL doesn't always put it into limp mode. And I've had a MAF fail that didn't throw a code, didn't even make it idle bad. First thing that tipped me off was it started idling at 730 RPM, not 700. And later it started running like crap. I rarely have a CEL code that ends up being useful in fixing something.... I just get censors reading bogus like the MAF but not throwing a code. As far as I've found, there's a few levels of limp mode. If you loose a VSS signal it won't rev over 3.5k or 4.5 or something, but otherwise run fine. Another mode is it ignores all censors and goes into a very basic mode of running. Very rich, both rad fans always on to keep it from overheating, etc. I think I got this when I lost my CTS.

JDMs are nice if you have the cash.

Disconnecting the back end of the driveshaft really isn't that hard... I'm pretty good at it by now

hahah yea...

Awesome! Good job.

I re-charged my system myself with about $30 in r134 or whatever the stuff is and some gauges.

The site says it's a stainless steel gasket. And subaru engines are all aluminum. Everything I know about dissimilar, and some personal experience with it is that you NEVER have aluminum and stainless in direct contact with each other because of galvanic corrosion. Especially when salt is in the mixture. I've had issues with boats, but with cars you get salt from the roads in the winter which will find it's way to the bottom of the engine.

Thanks Gloyale, I was informed by somebody that the phase 2 manifold would bolt up... I'm glad I didn't try to go that route!!! It doesn't matter if I get a DOHC 2.5 harness, or a OBD2 phase 1 ej22 harness, right? People do the swap in outbacks all the time so I don't see why it would matter. My engine has EGR, so that gives me freedom in that if I get a harness from an EGR car it'll be happy. or if it's from a car without EGR I can just take the ERG off my engine and it'll still be happy.

I've had that happen to me before. You can still pull the plug. Just pull the part that's still stuck on the plug off with some needle nose pliers. And if you stick the part that came off back into the plug boot it'll most likely run... I ran mine like that for 2 days, every now and again it would stop working and I had to pull over and re-seat the boot to make it contact again. Yes you need new wires, but no your car isn't immobilized until you do.