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ah ha... I guess I can borrow one tomorrow from my friend. I was just gonna pull the plug wire so I could see it spark as the mark went by... I tried shining a flashlight at it, but didn't work. I guess once I get the light it'll all make sense... thanks

This is probably a really stupid question, but how the heck am I supposed to SEE the timing mark and it spins by? I made a nice visible mark with white chalk. and I can't for the life of me see it as it passes by. What does everyone else use? There's a little orange paint mark at 20* on the flywheel from the previous owner, how did he see that? I don't get it...

When I just got done replacing both rear wheel bearings and disc brake swap. That was a very major learning curve...

I put shiny ones in

I was hoping you'd chime in I wasn't sure if that was the 10* thing was the norm, or if that's just how mine ended up. I guess I was assuming it would end up in the blank space for some reason... Not on one of the marks. I didn't realize it could end up in different places on the flywheel like that. Anyway, I'm glad all my questions are cleared up!!! I'll add 10 more degrees after 20*, mark it, and get it timed right! Thanks so much to everyone who's given me help with this. You guys are awesome I can't wait to finally hear my little ea81 purr. Great little motor.

Thanks! I figured it would be fine doing that! Now all I need to do is get input on the flywheel thing, borrow the timing light from a friend and I'll be all set

I've been waiting a few days to ask this ... thanks for getting for forum back up guys!! I pulled the plug on the #1 cyl, turned the engine to it's compression stroke. I made sure it was the comp stroke by pulling the disty cap off, and when the electrode on the rotor pointed to the #1 pole I figured that's the #1 comp stroke. I did the straw thing to find TDC, and TDC comes out to almost exactly 10 DBTDC on the ea82 flywheel. Does that sound correct? Is it supposed to be that close? Or am I doing something wrong? Another question, the disty is turned to far to get the retaining bolt in. Am I correct in thinking that I can just take the disty out, and put it back in twisted. Making sure not to let the rotor/gear turn relative to the disty? In my mind that doesn't mess anything up, just checking to make sure I can do that. Thanks for all the help! I'm still new to playing with distributors and timing. I'm used to the EJ stuff with digital timing.

Awesome job! that engine is so clean! We should have a thread devoted to nasty wheel bearings... I have some to keep yours company.

I used that exact same diagram on my 4wd ea82. It took some finagling, but I got it eventually. I just used a tape measure from side to side, and side to center to make sure I had the toe and camber all lined up right on both sides. It's kind of a pain in the rump roast... but enough time will get your alignment set right. I'd advise unbolting the strut from the bottom and using something to tie it to the side so it doesn't interfere moving the arm around. That'll just make it more of a pain.

Just a reminder, even though your car is a 92, it's still an older generation because it's a loyale. You'll get more loyale specific answers in that forum. How hard have you tried to get it to free up? With enough persuasion it probably will... Have you pulled the plugs? If the engine is full of water there may be water in there too causing it not to turn...

Coolant always come from the bottom of the rad > engine > top of rad. If you think about it, if it sucked coolant from the top of the rad, and you were just a little bit low the pump wouldn't get any coolant ... Just from a logistics standpoint it HAS to work that way on every car.

Nice car! I like the colour. It looks like it had the spoiler ripped off?

It isn't great. Basically the center diff is locking. So it's like leaving an old subau or truck in 4wd and driving it on pavement. It's hard on the tires, axles, tranny, etc.

Wow! Long ride in a lifted car! I like my Legacy for road trips. It's comfy, has a nice stereo, and gets over 30mpg. Whenever I think about a roadtrip in the GL I think it would be long and loud..

If the rest of the pipe isn't TOO rusty you can just cut a section out and weld a new section in. I just did that last week on my legacy, actually. The pipe rusted in half on a previous weld. I got a section of pipe from napa for about $4, pulled off my exhaust, welded a new section in and done! Cheap fix! Also, I don't understand how the exhaust could puncture the floor by coming loose... that doesn't make sense to me. Worse case scenario is it comes completely loose (I went over a bump and the vibration broke it...). In that case it'll just be loud, but won't harm anything except your ears...

It's about 7.5 deg. of camber adjustment per inch of lift.

Sweet find! wow! that thing is immaculate.

I have all the wiring for a starting/kill system from under the hood. Because that would be awesome. I just need to mount the switches and run the wires. I should post up how I made that harness.

If it' an auto it won't just restart from being in gear though.

Sweetness! That looks awesome! What winch is that?

It will run, poorly. But a failing MAF won't usually make the car just stall while you're driving. It's conceivable it would stall when you idled down maybe because it doesn't know what to do at idle, but rarely will a failed MAF cause the car to just stop running. They don't usually fail that way. It would have to suddenly report a very high airflow or something like that.

I carry common failure spares... Like accessory belt for me GL. It won't run without that, if it breaks on the legacy whatever, the WP isn't on it. Sensors that'll make it stop running like CAS, etc. And yes, it will run without the MAF. But it will have very retarded timing and run grossly rich. And it'll also go into limp mode (at least my car is obsessed with going into limp mod...). But it will still run and drive to get you home.

Could still be the CTS. There's 3 censors for temp in your car. One for the electric fan, one for the gauge, and a different one for the computer. Just because the gauge works doesn't mean the one to the computer is working.

I just replaced mine on the side of the road... I keep a bunch of sensors and stuff in my car for when thingn break.

It should idle at 700 RPM with the AC off. If the AC is on it'll idle higher. What are you going by to tell the idle speed? The tach? because the tachs aren't always correct, and sometimes hard to read. I don't know what the first little blips are in my legacy mean, but my scangauge says 700 when it's warmed up.