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Lifted rigs aren't "pretty" though. They're full of scratches, dents, etc. Just beat on it offroad until it doesn't go anymore. It'll probably go a lot longer than you expect!

I'll probably just use the string method. It worked pretty nice for the front. I can let go of the wheel and my car drives perfectly straight now. The whole point of this car is not to spend a whole lot of money on it. It's a beater, it's fun to work on, and it runs and drives awesome with what I've done to it so far.

There is a good chance I screwed something up since that was the side I did the wheel bearing on first, and I was still just figuring out how the heck it all was supposed to work ... heh. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pull it apart and put it back together now that I know what the hell I'm doing.

Thank you! And yes, it makes perfect sense. I was under the car the other day looking at the suspension, and it did seem that that bushing was at a funny angle, torqued to the side sort of. I'll try loosening everything up and see if I can get that straightened out a bit before bolting torquing everything down again.

It seem rather primitive that you have to shove wooden shims in to correct the camber. Especially seeing as wood expands/shrinks and degrades over age... I still don't completely understand what that page is saying to do, I'm a bit confused, but hopefully when I take the wheel off it'll make more sense. I'm thinking I can probably weld something up rather than using wood. I'll keep you updated.

^ that looks absolutely awful!! Gross. Thanks so much for posting it up!! I'll play with it and see what I can come up with, I got the front fixed, so hopefully I can make the back happy. That was exactly what I was looking for, just hoping it would be a little less convoluted than that ...

My '96 legacy can get around 32 on the highway on long trips with AC running the whole way. It's a great little car! Only 115k though, so not exactly high mileage.

No, it doesn't seem to be adjustable. Which is annoying. Jason, the lift looks fine. Same on both sides. Hasn't shifted or anything. What do you mean shim the tires? That doesn't make any sense...

So my lifted GL has negative camber on the rear driver's side. It's fine on the passenger's side, but the driver's side has pretty bad negative camber. I see no obvious way how to fix it. What do I have to do to correct it? Thanks

Leave it in 1st gear and it'll hold better as it will have to spin the engine faster to move. But recently the e-brake in my legacy failed and it rolled backwards quite a ways in gear, slows it down at least...

Looks awesome! I love that body style.

I'm surprised they didn't say you could duct tape the fuel line together and drive it without the filter...

If one was going to do that, I don't understand why they wouldn't just leave their filter in, then take it out to check at the auto parts store...

^ actually. that wasn't the question. The question was witch direction does the jiggle pin go. Which I answered. But anyway...

The only issue running with no EGR is it can make you more liable to failing emissions testing. But if you don't have that in your area you're fine. My ej22 is factory without egr and runs just fine

When you're going back as far as the ea engines you also have to take into consideration the power those engines were putting out. The ea82 only pushes 90hp or something so it NEEDS shorter gears in the transmission to be able to move the car at any decent rate. Acceleration or speed. Then take the RX with the 3.7 FD. It had a turbo so it has the power to go along with a higher FD ratio. Also the ea cars (and none of this really applies to the XT6) had 13 inch wheels. Smaller wheels = more revolutions which means it needs a higher FD. You're correct about the EA trannys having shorter gears. But with the bigger tires on my GL 5th gear actually ends up almost exactly in the same place as it does in my legacy in terms of RPM vs speed. Both have a 3.9 FD. Some of the other gears are a little taller, some are a little shorter, but the gearing in the subaru trannys has changed quite a bit over the years. And I thought only auto trannys in the US had the 4.44 FD. I've always been under the impression that the OB and fozzy had the same gearbox/FD. The EJ boxes do like to play with 5th gear though, there's a few different ratios for that.

Some brands are better than others, some people have better luck than others. But there are TONS of stories about aftermarket t-stats causing big issues that the majority of us will just spend the extra few $ to get a subaru one.

You don't want the engine running to hot. But you don't want it to cool either. It's designed to run at 180 so let it

So I took my gauge cluster out today. The screws that act as contacts and hold the speedo part in were very loose. That is most likely what was causing an intermittent issue. I hope that fixes it!***

Mine is a stick. Every auto I've met is a 4.44 in the EJ world. After what johnceggleston posted confirms what I said about the legacy being 3.9. The GT though will probably be 4.11 ... There's also a thread on here, or maybe elsewhere on the net that has the tranny number and what gearset, diff, etc it has.

As awd turbo said, you should only ever use a genuine subaru thermostat. They're like $15. The pin thing is called the jiggle pin, it lets air bubbles in the system get out into the rad. IIRC on mine it's facing the back of the car, but I doubt it matters. The thermostat is round so it shouldn't make a difference.

With the spring end down and the pointy end up

96 for the ej22 was still non-interference, still HLAs, but only single port exhaust.

In the winter I'd prefer the 4.11 because trying to go slow in snow, getting un-stuck, etc. But 3.9 is gonna be better for the highway. I prefer the longer 5th in the legacy tranny though. I'm not completely sure that the 98 is a 3.9, but my 96 is. They had a few different setups, easiest to just check the sticker. Your OB DOES have 4.11 though.