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After I fixed the camber on my GL my car not only steered straight, it handles a lot better. And now with new balanced tires I don't get any shakes at all up to 70 (haven't taken it faster than that). It used to start shaking around 40 and getting bad by 50-60. Shaking is usually a tire balance thing.

I was having that issue with my GL. When it is parked the boot was actually sort of crumpled because of the axle angle. Which ate the boot up on a new axle. Now I've fixed the camber and it doesn't crumple up the boot. So I'll see how it goes like that with a new axle. I'm lifted about 2+1/4" up front.

When you go through hell to get your car fixed it's just that much more fun to drive it afterwards. I had a hard time doing my rear bearings, but after 3 days when I finally had it done that first quite test drive made the whole thing worth it. Hang in there, you're doing it right the first time, getting it done, and when it's all finished it will be more fun to drive than if you got it that way. It's a wonderful feeling of accomplishment on that first test ride after hours of painful work. Keep up the good work

EZ30? That looks awesome! More pics please!

Now that I think of it, I may have taken a breaker bar to that bolt, in any case, it did come loose without any extreme measures.

Mine started leaking a week after I bought the car, the place I bought it from replaced it for free. And the '99 obw needed it's filler neck replaced too. Pretty much any suby 10 years or older is gonna go soon. As awesome as subarus are, they did some silly things

I wonder if they're all like this, or yours was modified by someone.

This is the front axle? You're disconnecting the wrong end. You should take off the arm from the inside where it connects up to the car. It's a 14mm bolt IIRC and comes out nice and easy with a good dousing of PB blaster. If that ball joint is bad you really should replace it if you don't want your wheel flopping off while you're driving.

Thanks GD. Good points as usual. Your advise is much appreciated.

GD, since you have experience with these axles. How's their return policy? Since I beat on mine I'm gonna be replacing them. So before I go one I'd want to know if they're easy to have replaced.

Keep in mind my car is lifted about as much as you can push the axles and with bigger wheels. And I abuse them. I think what's happening is it's to much flex for the boots so they're tearing. GD said the empi ones have thicker rubber so they might last longer.

I spoke to soon about maxdrive being good .... I had another one blow on me today. Threw all it's grease out and is starting to click up a storm. I'll probably get another napa one as a spare, it's free so why not. But replace it with one of the empi ones.

Rolling the mileage back or forward is really easy. I had to do it for my '96 legacy.

The previous owner of my GL (bratman) got maxdrive axles from NAPA. They work awesome and have a lifetime warranty. So when you blow one up you just take it back and get another one for free!! Especially good if you're lifted.

You want to adjust the hill hold to release the brakes right as the clutch starts to grab. I hate the system... but the way I adjust it is by putting the car on a hill and getting it so that when I let up the clutch enough to release the brakes, the car stays put on the hill with the clutch dragging. And BTW there is no solonoid (at least on my '96 there isn't). It's completely mechanical.

Don't feel dumb, everyone makes mistakes like this ... You can go ahead and feel dumb when you break something expensive and need to wait for a new one to ship... I know nothing about that though :rolleyes:

The ticking is most likely the HLAs (hydraulic lash adjusters). They start to get old and the lash goes off. Then it ticks. Doesn't harm anything. Rattling is usually exhaust heat shield. Another annoying but harmless issue. You can put big hose clamps really tight around the shields to make it stop, or rip them off. Or just ignore it.

As has been said, vibrating is most likely warped rotors. Replace them, and probably the brake pads, and you'll be good. Have you changed the oil recently? If not, change it. Oil gets thinner as it gets older and may not have enough pressure to run the HLAs right. If the oil is fresh you may have low oil pressure. But ticking doesn't really mean much. It comes and goes on my legacy. It came for almost a year, and then randomly went away. It's harmless but annoying.

Nice ride! The biggest issues addressed and it's a 5-speed

The flasher relay for the blinkers you mean? On my '89 it's built in with the hazzard button on the dash. If you take it out it's the whole flasher relay assembly.

Happened to me. (no ABS light though, and yes, I unfortunately have ABS). It was intermittent for about 10 miles, then just stopped working. Banged on the alt with a hammer and it worked for a few more miles before stopping working all together. You can drive for quite a while with a failed alt. Just keep lights and stuff off, but once your battery dies ... on the side of the road you go until you charge it up! What happened on my alt was that one of the wires to the brushes just broke off.

Mine went on my '96 legacy at 92k miles. Even though I had 13k miles before I was supposed to replace it, it was 12 years old. They get old like any rubber, I'd follow the 105 month thing.

I thought subaru didn't start with remote locks until '99

Thank you very much!!! That's exactly what I was looking for. I have gone through most the logic he's gone through there with the basic wiring, but was hoping there was a more simple way to do it than that. Maybe I'll build something like that though. Thanks again for that page

http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html this is a very informative read on fi with an 81. As I said, I didn't personally do the swap. So I'm not aware of all the roadblocks that had to be overcome.