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I have an ea81 in my GL that used to be an EA82. Bratman did the swap before I bought it, but it has the ea82 intake and complete FI system. Someone on here makes a custom bracket for PS. So no need to do a carb swap

What exactly do you mean by "general throttle body cleanout"? I had the same issue a while ago, except not such high idle. And cleaning the iacv fixed it mostly, but sometimes it will still idle a little high for a bit.

Do you have: fuel, ignition, air, and timing? If it doesn't run it's always one of those.

Cool, thanks.

It's an 89 GL. But it should be the same for any car that has separate blinkers from the tail/brake lights.

So I've searched the net and can't find what I'm looking for. I need to wire up a harness for a trailer. Obviously since subaru has a separate blinker I need an adapter. I found this online. Which is exactly what I want. But I don't want to buy something like that. I have a box of relays, wires, and I have a soldering iron and I'm not afraid to use it. Just wondering if anyone has a diagram on how to make one. I can't get my mind wrapped around an efficient way to do it. What I wired up made the trailer lights blink opposite to the car lights and used an ungodly amount of relays..... Thanks for your input

It isn't just a reed switch device? Hmm. Since it's a hall effect device the problem could be the vss then. If the signal it's outputting strays uniformly on both ends of the spectrum the gauge would read correct because the digital to analogue circuit on the speedo gauge would still average it out to the speed. The ECU, however, would probably get upset by this erroneous signal and just drop to zero. This could also explain why last year it did weird things under 20mph after it had warmed up. And this stopped after the alt spike, so the alt could have just messed up the VSS. Does anyone see holes in this theory? And for those asking about the alt, it was the regulator. I have a different alt in there now and it works just as it should.

The wires are both black And they're not just dirty, or something. I cleaned them off, and they're black.

Thanks for the info! One clarification though, I only have 2 wires coming off my VSS. Can I assume what you list as "VSS pin #2: black/red wire tied to ground" is grounded directly from the VSS to the transmission?

Power to what? the ECU?

As I've said in previous posts, my instrument cluster doesn't have anything to do with the signal the ECU gets. My VSS is actually on the transmission, there is no cable. I've driven the car with no instrument cluster and at that time my scangauge2 showed the correct speed. I was replacing the instrument cluster because it stopped working due my my alternator spiking really high. And since then my electrical system has been acting stupid, so that probably has to do with it.

Thanks, it does help because it tells me how the VSS works. It's probably the same for the transmission mounted one like on my car. It's only happened once since last time I posted. It was reading a low speed on the scagauge, then dropped to zero. But as I was going along I turned the key off and on again and it was working fine right after that. The fact that it works fine after turning the car off and on makes it rather difficult to diagnose :-\

Just make sure you do what GD suggested and put a good amount of heavy grease in the tap to keep the metal shavings out of the engine. Just stressing that point because it's very important to not have metal shavings in your cylinders.

I got my first subaru (legacy) with the intent that I would probably sell it and get something "better" in the next few years. But I've discovered that there isn't anything better, so instead I got a second subaru

Maybe you have a leak? Have you tried pulling off a fuel hose and seeing if gas is getting to the engine?

From about 1997 with the phase 2 ej22 to 2004 they went to solid lifters. So maybe the early ej25 in 1996 had hydraulic lifters, but that would be the only one. Now (2005 and later) I believe everything has hydraulic lifters, correct?

In my legacy I can do 34 on the highway easy if I'm nice on the skinny pedal.

It drives me nuts when I get the wrong part for something, and don't realize it until I have everything torn apart. I get both mad at myself for not checking before hand that all my parts were right, and mad at the idiot who sold me the wrong part ... grrr. I feel your pain.

not done yet, but a work in progress.

yep! the one i used didn't even need to be drilled. it just has a rugged tap that goes on a 3/8" socket wrench.

I've done exactly what GD said on my legacy on 2 cylinders. it's wicked easy and works awesome! it will be even easier with an ea81 because the plugs aren't 6" into the head.

You can get tracing paper at most art supply stores. That's where I get mine.

A few months ago I was bored at work and freehanded my legacy. I'll see if I can find it anywhere... It's gotta be somewhere.

I forgot about the 5v on pin 8 thing with windows. Duh! I was using linux on mine with a developmental ARM board. Which is why I didn't do anything overly normal with it...

I guess I could find the pin on the eco, fix my oscilloscope (which I should do anyway). Then I'd have to wait for it to act up again so I could start tracing stuff and finding out what's wrong ...