987687

Seafoam doesn't usually do anything, so I wouldn't expect it to be causing trouble in the engine itself. However, if your fuel system was crusty to start with it may have dislodged some debris and clogged the fuel filter. I'd start by replacing the fuel filter under the hood. It's a good idea anyway, it's an often neglected maintenance item. There's also a filter screen in the tank, but I have no idea how to access that one... I've never bothered with it.

Where did you put the seafoam?

TomRhere had you on the right track with the two hammer, pic from my rear wheelbearing guide. I know you're doing a front, but same deal. Just work the axle out like that, tightening the nut down the threads as need be. Once you can't pull it anymore with the nut all the way threaded in in, chances are you can throw the hub on there and have enough threads to start puling it through. Sometimes they can be REALLY stubborn. I had a super stubborn axle about 600 miles from home in a shopping mall parking lot. Just keep working at it.... you'll get it.

You need a 10mm or 12mm wrench for the pinch bolts on the coupler. Remove the pinch bolts, tap the coupler up the steering shaft until the bottom comes free, then tap it off. Everything is in your way and there isn't a whole lot of room.... removing the starter might help.

After someone took a left infront of my forester, totalling it, I decided I needed to change things up a bit. A few months ago I bought this wonderful thing in Virginia and drove it 1000 miles home. I've had to replace an axle, engine/trans mounts, deal with the fuel system being screwed up, and fix some misc interior stuff. Vacuum door locks, window switches, light bulbs, etc. Overall, it's a fun non-subaru I have to say, the 3L 5 cylinder turbo diesel engine has a lot of torque compared to an ej22 I've already hauled around a few subaru enignes, it has hydraulic auto-leveling suspension (which cost me a couple hundred and several hours of screwing around to fix...) so it hauls a trunk full of junk nicely. As fun as this car is, I'm still looking for a replacement to my poor old rusted out GL. Maybe a brat, maybe an ea81 hatchy, we'll see

Nope, the hub doesn't go through the bearings, it sits against the inner race. Unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor, unbolt the axle nut, and it just comes off. If you rip the parking brake good and tight the rotor won't even move and get in your way. The flat washer actually isn't flat, it's conical. Make sure the convex side goes toward the taper washer. Make sure the mating surface between the taper washer and the hub, and the taper to axle IS CLEAN AND DRY. You want NO OIL between those surfaces, it's a mechanical shaft lock.

09 has different knuckles that use unit bearings. Not sure if old ones are compatible or not, though. Manual transmission axles are different, they're female axles on the 01 and male axles on the 09, not sure about automatic.

That's a winning suggestion right here. Easier to work with, too since it's a smaller light (don't have to deal with the blinkers). I've never converted from single to two piece, just the other way (for JDMs). Can't be too hard.

Yes, it will deflect the light output. You won't have a nice sharp cutoff unless you sand the inside of the lens flat. Probably not that big a deal, tbh, you just need a circle where the projector shines through. Use a round sanding pad on a drill start with a coarse paper to break the ridges down, going finer and finer until you have a polished finish.

I use Sta-Lube synthetic brake and caliper grease. It's designed for exactly this application. It's also for drum brake lube points which will be good if you have to do parking brakes. You can get it in a toothepaste sized tube for a couple bucks at napa.

You don't want two wheels grabbing, two wheels slipping. I'm assuming it's an automatic, that would be EXTREMELY rough on the transfer clutches in the transmission. Also, putting tire chains on AFTER you get stuck is always recipe for disaster, it's easiest to drive onto the chain the wrap it around the tire. If you're stuck that is, by definition of being stuck, not possible. There really isn't much reason to have tire chains with a subaru and brand new snow tires. If you have a lot of heavy snow you're just gonna high center and get stuck anyway, chains or no chains. If it's light and fluffy the snow tires will be fine.

PS operates at scary high pressures, it's in the range of 1500psi... Not something to mess about with trying to fix. Use the proper parts or nothing. You can always cut the rubber pressure line and loop it back into the top of the reservoir.... That keeps fluid in the system so you don't ruin the pump. I had to do that with the hydraulic system on another car I own. It's not ideal, but you can get by without ruining any parts. Remember: pressure is resistance to flow, if you have no resistance (in the case of looping the line) there's no pressure, nothing to worry about. That's the same reason a tiny pinhole leak in a PS line will just piss out fluid, it's a much "easier" path for the fluid to take.

You can get at the lines at the rack end. It's kind of a pain in the butt, but it's possible. It might help to unbolt the two motor mount nuts and pitch stopper to jack the engine up a few inches if you need more clearance. The power steering system takes ATF dextron, not power steering fluid.

That's awesome! A hub is much easier to replace than a clutch. Check the axle out really carefully for wear. You don't want to strip out your new hub because the axle splines are worn. If in doubt, replace the axle as well.

Correct, if one axle is spinning without the car moving, hub is stripped on that side. It's an open differential so just one side needs to spin for the car not to move. If you have it in gear, clutch engaged (foot off the pedal) and no axles are spinning... Your clutch or something in the trans died. Start taking things apart...

Have someone sit in the car with the brakes on (don't wanna get run over), put it in 1st gear in fwd and let out the clutch. If the engine doesn't stall, something is broken... Look under the hood and watch to see if an axle is spinning, it's that easy. You can do it without a helper, but running yourself over is bad mojo...

The breather covers are all metal by 2000. I've done several rear mains and never had one leak. I seat them JUST A TAD further in than original, that makes the seal seat in a new place on the shaft so it doesn't get worn out by the tiny groove caused by the original seal. However, rear mains rarely fail and it seems by and large peolpe have a rough time replacing them without having leaks.... So just leave it be.

Do not use a felpro gasket, use the STi gasket. Subaru part number: 11044AA642. Use a Gates timing kit, replace all the idlers, tensioner, and waterpump. One of those usually fails before the belt.

If you bought it at the dealer you should have at least a 30 day partial warranty. Read your contract, talk to sales, etc to find out more details. I'd oped a case about it right now so you have it on record as being an issue ASAP that way if you have to pester them to cover the bearing they won't come back and tell you it's past the 30 days. When the bearing gets really bad it can damage the hub or knuckle necessitating replacement. The bearing didn't go from fine to having play in the couple weeks you've owned the car, that's BS, they need to take care of you on this one.

Yea, I'm not gonna get into snakeoil and additives to keep moisture down etc. Just driving the thing at operating temp for 15 minutes ever now and again is the best maintenance you can do to any car. I used castrol GTX high mileage full synthetic in my last ej22 with over 200k miles on it. It's like $15 at Walmart for a 5 quart jug. When I switched from conventional it quieted down noticeably. No procedure for switching, there are a lot of myths around synthetic oil. You need to flush the engine, you can't mix synthetic and conventional, you can go 20k on an oil change, blah blah blah blah BS.... A lot of it has historical relevance from the early days of synthetics, however no longer true. Just change the oil and filter like normal and pretend nothing changed. If you have to add oil somewhere and can't buy synthetic, put conventional in there.

AHHHHHHHH!!!!! DO NOT just scuff up an aluminum head with red scotchbright. That stuff is sharp and will cause somewhat deep grooves (as far as a gasket is concerned), you'll also end up making low spots because nobody is perfect. The 2.2 and ea8x engines are a bit more tolerant to doing things improperly, but not the 2.5. GD has a very good post on DIY head surfacing. As you know, not doing it right means doing it again. The only time I had a subaru headgasket fail on me a second time was because I used felpro MLS gaskets. The coating came off between the combustion chamber and the coolant passages, looked like a stock 25D headgasket failure. Subaru heads almost never warp, I've seen them overheated to seizure and the heads were flat. They're so small you really don't have to worry about it.

A block heater does not burn moisture out of the engine, the only thing that does is letting the oil reach operating temp above 212 degrees and driving with it fully warmed up for several minutes. Once a week take the car for a 15 minute drive on the highway. It'll cost you a couple bucks in gas every month but in the long term you'll save your engine. Also, if you aren't already doing it, use a good synthetic oil. Synthetic oil helps prevent corrosion from water and acids built up from increased blowby of not reaching operating temp.

Wow that's BAD. I wouldn't bother rebuilding a 2.5, they're really picky motors to rebuild properly. I've seen many people rebuild them and they just go and blow up again. You need to line bore the crank holes, hone the bores with torque plates, etc. If you wanna rebuild it, make sure and do a lot of research first.

Here's a listing for 97-99 headlights on ebay, look pretty similar to me http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-Headlights-Headlamps-Lenses-for-1997-1998-1999-Subaru-Legacy-/271675702301?fits=Model%3ALegacy&hash=item3f41223c1d:g:yiMAAOSw5ZBWMar4&vxp=mtr The corner lights are a separate part starting in 97. The 00-04 ones are all one part and a bit narrower/taller, http://www.carid.com/ic/replace/headlights/su2502105v_6.jpg

The sensors almost never fail, but it's easy to unplug and check the resistance if you wanna do that first. Then pull the cluster and check the screws I mentioned.