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I don't see why not. It would basically be like having the car in run always. So some output like ignition would have to be terminated so that the engine stopped when the key is turned off. Thing you'd need to find out is, does the data get lost when the engine stops while still in run? Next time I notice the monitors are all set I can just stall the engine and see if the stay that way. If so, wiring would be simple to give the ECU power to keep the data. Just have a switch for inspection time. I work with electronics and computers, so I find it way easier to deal with the electrical side of things rather than the mechanical side when it comes to things like this.

In that case I'd just wire up a switch to always give the ECU power. Even after the car is turned off... that way the emissions stuff wouldn't be cleared. But I'm just lazy like that. I'd find that easier than drilling and tapping.

Yea, mine reset as soon as I turn off the car. Can't they just leave it running when they check the computer ...? The '96s are messed up though... in my state (Maine) they just don't check the '96 computer. As long as the CEL is off, it's good to go.

I have a '96 2.2 with MT in my legacy, and my '99 OBW has the DOHC 2.5 and MT. And I will completely agree that the 2.5 has less low end! It drives me nuts! I always stall the 2.5 when I'm switching around because of it. And the '96 ECU does sometimes set all the redyness monitors for emissions checking... but it doesn't do it very often.

I understand how plugs don't all go into the cylinder ... just the end sticks in, just wondering what was causing all the leakage, I'd be worried it was something bad. but I dunno.

What's going on with piston #1? That wouldn't make me happy.

Watching that makes me sad. I wish he was still in subarus :'(

For the most part when driving, engine runs between 180 and 185. Sitting when it's warm out, temps can get up over 200 until the second fan kicks in.

That's really awesome! Super cool. I've been following this thread, and all I have to say is DAMN THAT'S SWEET!!

That would work. But I wouldn't get jumper cables so close together like that. One slip and boom goes your battery. Seen it happen not 20' from me. Not a pretty sight. I'd probably put the fuse in a fuse holder, nice long leads, then short those to the battery.

When it is stalling, is the transmission in gear or in neutral? I'm thinking maybe the clutch isn't fully disengaging. If that's the case, it shouldn't stall with the transmission in neutral.

So after about a mile of driving ABS started working as quickly as it stopped. Then I was in town and it quit again ... I'm just gonna pull the fuse. Eff it.

I wish I could listen for the pump. I have a bad ear infection now and am having a hard time hearing I have heard about the pump running when the car is off issue though. We'll see if the battery is head tomorrow morning. should answer the question Battery voltage is fine, right around 14v idling. Just replaced the alternator a few months ago. And yea, I've always wondered about those wires. I've always thought how vulnerable they look ... maybe I've finally done what I've been surprised I haven't done ... haha. That doesn't make any sense... I should go to sleep.

It came like always before starting, and just didn't go back off. I didn't even try to drive it because it was tired. I figure I'll put some more trouble shooting into it when it isn't dark and snowing.

I closed all my windows, and restarted. Didn't fix it. Tomorrow when it is light out I'll check what the code is, check fuses and stuff ...

Thanks for that. I have never heard of that problem before, and last year I went through some pretty serious snow drifts, and banks, and drifting. Never an issue. But I'll see if it clears up! If it does, I may have to just disconnect ABS. haha. I'm mostly worried about if someone else drives the car.

So I think my ABS died or something. Left tonight, was slippery and ABS was doing it's job. Got a bit stuck leaving the parking lot after choir practice (parked in a snow bank ). But everything was fine. When I got on my back road it was unplowed and fun. Sliding around and all. Getting towards my driveway I slammed on the brakes, but missed my driveway (ABS still doing it's thing). When I stopped I did a power circle in the middle of the road to turn around, and after that my ABS light came on, and now ABS doesn't work anymore. WTF?

Thanks for the info. So it isn't a rush to do anything about it. It is damaging my head though. But I do also have a heli-coil wound into my head. Keeps my eyes from falling out again

How bad is it for the head to have them ticking all the time?

There is a TSB about that on the newer subarus.

I get that code from time to time in cold weather. When it is -20 out for a month ... it will come on once a week, when it is warmer, once a month or so. In summer time it won't come on at all. I don't worry about it.

A good DPDT switch is a couple bucks. Try it out, if it blows up after a while put relays in then. If not, you've just saved a lot of money and time.

Driven to Maine to Florida and back with my mom. And about once a month I make the drive from ME to PA, about 1000 miles round trip. I usually average 33mpg with my ej22 and 5MT. If I'm in a hurry and driving 85+ my gas mileage goes down fast though....

Just because the ABS light goes off with the TCU in there doesn't mean the ABS actually works ... Have you tested it?

I did a road trip and got about 480 miles to my tank. Gas light was on, put in 15.3 gallons. My ej22 doesn't burn a drop of oil, 103k miles.