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They look like 97-99 legacy/outback headlights. 95/96 are similar, but they're one part with the corners built in. You can swap between the two styles with minor modifications.

Just get the STi gaskets... I posted the part number. I know they work fine with the 00-04 sohc 2.5 engines, because I've put them in that year range vehicles. ocei77 says they'll also work in the dohc engines, which I did not know, good information.

That's awesome! How is the dual range holding up to the 22t?

I still don't know if you have a single cam or dual cam motor.... If it's a single cam 2.5, the STi headgaskets to use are subaru part number 11044AA642. If you have a dual cam, those won't work. Head bolts are a good idea if you're building a high hp turbo engine... otherwise make sure they have a light coating of oil on the threads and washers during installation. And headgaskets go on dry. Mating surfaces perfectly clean, no sealer, no nothing.

I did that to my GL since I used to offroad it and get it all muddy. Saves the windshield and the wiper blades.

I guess if you wanna track down the bearings and press them yourself, go ahead. At least 2 of them have dual bearings, so by the time you buy all the bearings and screw around with it... eh. I tend to spend $20 to get something that I know was done right from the factory than spend $15 and waste several hours reinventing the wheel. But new bearings are new bearings, so go ahead. Speaking of that head surface guide, where ever did GD go?

Only use an OEM thermostat, OEM on the right in this picture. If you have an aftermarket one, go to the dealer and get a new one, they're $15 or thereabouts. I only use STi headgaskets, they're about $45/side and the best gaskets you can get for your engine (assuming you have a sohc 2.5). REPLACE ALL THE IDLERS, TENSIONER, AND WATERPUMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had a waterpump seize on me once, fortunately it wasn't an interferance engine, so no engine damage. I had 3 friends in the car on the way to a concert we paid for and didn't get to see because I was a cheapass and didn't buy a $25 part. It would have been cheaper to buy a stupid waterpump than 4 concert tickets and towing 50 miles home.... The same can happen with any of the idlers.

No way, a fully dressed ez30 weighs in well over 300lbs, an ej25 is probably in the 250 range.

That inner bushing you talk about is often the cause of bad camber in those cars. Those bushings take a lot of abuse and wear out, causing negative camber. My outback was stanced until I replaced that one.

I've scored some hard to find or expensive mercedes parts off ebay recently, brand new in box. Guys just had stuff sitting around from cars they sold and wanted it gone. If you take your time, those deals are out there. You see this with pretty much anything 20+ years old if you take your time.

I had the same gripe with my 3rd gen outback. My solution was to put a normally closed relay inline with the supply wire to the low beam bulb, one of the coil wires to the positive supply, and the other coil wire the switched negative on the high beam. This essentially creates a NOT gate, whenever the high beam is on it disconnects power to the low beam. Problem solved.

You asked if the TOB and stuff would work... are you doing the swap for the OP? An STi clutch setup won't work because it's entirely different. I hate to break it, but if you've never done this swap I'm not what advise you're trying to add besides ask questions related to your interests, not the OP's query. I've worked on several h6 cars, drives swaps, and helped with them. Caboobaroo brings up a good point that they're hard to run with a manual. My friend has one in a forester and is fighting with the CEL to pass emissions, he's a mechanic so I think he finally just fudged it through... But there's a fairly comprehensive thread SOMEWHERE about how to make it work right. I can't for the life of me find it.

You don't wanna upgrade the sway bar until you replace all the old worn out bushings, sway bars are the final step in tuning the suspension in a car.

I won't sell with paypal unless I really trust the person... A buyer can claim you never shipped it, or it was broken, etc. File a claim with paypal and get refunded. Then paypal makes you pay them back. That happened to a friend of mine, complete fraud.

The first thing in getting better performance is replacing all the worn out stuff... Struts are a good start, you can get KYB GR2 struts from rockauto for around $60/corner. That's a good place to start. Other items that wear out and should be replaced are definitely the rear trailing arm bushings, those tend to be the most worn most worth while upgrade on any older subaru. If you have any slop in the driveline or clunking when you get on/off the gas pedal, those bushings are the biggest cause. Beyond that, rear differential bushings and front control arm bushings will make a different. For the rear bushings on the front control arm, you can upgrade to the Turn in Concepts bushings that improve castor. After you replace wear items, get the car aligned and put some better tires on it. Depending on the roads you drive, you might not want low profile tires. If you live somewhere with tons of pot holes and crappy roads I wouldn't go much bigger than 16" or 17". For 16" you can get bugeye wrx rims pretty cheap, they're fairly light and strong. If you search around, you're gonna see a lot of advise to put a massive rear swaybar on the car.... DON'T. A big rear swaybar helps compensate for old worn out bushings, instead just replace the old worn out bushings. You'll have a tighter ride, the swaybar is the final item for tuning a suspension. After you improve the handling, upgrade your brakes, if you're gonna go faster you need to stop faster.

Read my post. And no, dropping crossmembers isn't gonna save time. Swapping the engines is the easy part, making it run is the hard part.

I used to live in Svolvaer in the Lofoten islands, winters there make the Maine winter look like a cold snap.

I had to do this when I put the JDM headlights in my legacy. I just grounded the switched ground at the light. Since I already had to take the connectors apart and make custom ones I just put a pigtail on the low beam wire to the body somewhere. Make sure to do it on both sides so you're not passing the current from both bulbs though the one ground. I also added a fused relay from the battery to power the lights, which I'll discuss below. There are, however, a few reasons it isn't a good idea... One, you have the older style headlights with the H4 and the crappy spade connector plug, those like to melt on a good day. You're going to be adding heat, nothing is designed for the added heat. The positive supply wire to the lights is designed to run one bulb on each side, you're almost doubling (because high beams are usually higher wattage) the amount of current that it's designed for. The added current draw is why I had a fused relay off the battery running the lights, the wiring is small already, you don't want to go overloading it.

What you really need to do here is plug in an OBD2 scan tool and take it for a drive, see if it registers speed there. If you don't have one, places like autozone usually scan your car for free. See if they'll let you take it for a drive around the parking lot. That's the easiest thing to diagnose first. I do know the ECU uses the speed signal, my 96 would randomly stall when pushing the clutch in while moving or coming to a stop. Actually my 2000 outback did the same thing when the speedo drive gear in the transmission escaped. The speed signal to the ECU is probably used for emissions control and whatnot. I lived in Center Valley for a while when my GF was going to school, you guys don't get as much snow and cold as we do up here And when it does snow a lot, nobody knows what to do I was down there during that bigass storm 2009 or 2010.

Your options are: swap everything to your outback, and you'll essentially have a factory 6 cylinder car, just manual swap the donor car because it's already a 6 cylinder, or cut and splice all the wiring and make it somehow work....

The ez30 will just drop right into your car, afterall, it was meant to have it there! The 2.5 clutch, flywheel, TOB, etc will bolt to the ez30 and bolt to the manual transmission no problem. You'll have to use the ez30 radiator because it has two coolant ports on the top, not just one like the 2.5. The only thing that's really super different mechanically is the AC compressor from the 2.5 won't fit the 3.0, you'l have to make custom lines or .... Just swap EVERYTHING from the 3.0 outback to your outback. It's the same shell, so if you swap EVERYTHING over, wiring, dashboard stuff that's different (I dunno if the HVAC stuff is different, it is if the 3.0 has auto climate), gauges (3.0 has a different tach signal), etc. It should just work . Once all the wiring is swapped over, do an auto to manual swap, ie. ground out whatever pin it is on the ecu and wire the NSS to the manual transmission. There's plenty of documentation on swapping 3.0 cars to manual. A friend of mine has done this swap and IIRC he ran into an issue with the cruise control, you need to keep the manual trans cruise computer, and something to do with the emissions system... I can't remember the exact details there.

I had a similar issue years ago, try my repair. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/115677-p0500-repair/ In my case, the speedo still worked but wasn't sending a signal to the ECU because the associated screw was loose. If your input signal screw is loose none of it will work. Failing that, I believe your car has the two wire variable reluctance speed sensor. For some strange reason I have one of those sitting on my desk, even though I don't own any subaru new enough to use one anymore... I just measured mine, the resistance across the two wires is 389 ohms. Unplug the connector at the sensor and check it with an ohm meter to make sure it's somewhere within say 10% of that reading. If for some reason you have a 3 wire type, I have one of those somewhere, too... I can't find it right now, but two wires should have 12v across them, the 3rd is the pulse signal back to the gauge/ecu. On a 2002 impreza there's a fuse that gives power to the speed sensor, reverse lights, and radiator fan relay. It's marked for none of those things, go figure, but if that fuse blows your speedo and reverse lights won't work.

Rockauto sells loaded calipers, so you get a caliper, pads, and the mounting bracket. Or if you have those just get a caliper, whatever you need. You can also get the rotors on rockauto. I dunno where you can get the hubs and backing plates. You might also be able to get the parts at a parts store, although you're gonna end up spending a good chunk. Online is usually cheaper.

Just a note on the brake hose. A few years ago I needed a new rear brake hose RIGHT NOW for my GL, I can't remember why, maybe I couldn't get the flare nut out or something. Anyway, no parts store had them in stock and they wanted a zillion dollars. I figured since subaru and nissan use a lot of the same parts I'd do a bit of internetting and looking at pictures on rockauto... Turns out a 1982 200sx rear brake hose works perfectly in the caliper. It's sometimes called the inner or upper hose, or whatever other random name it gets. Doesn't make much sense to me since I don't know how the brakes on those work, but it has a male threaded fitting on one end that goes into the caliper and a female threaded fitting on the other end for the flarenut from the hard line. IIRC it's a bit longer than the subaru hose, but if you're cutting the hardline anyway, who cares. Just make it the right length. It's also more like $10 at napa not a zillion dollars. EDIT: it's also possible my brain is on backwards, and I had to do this for the hose that comes from the car to the control arm because the brake line rusted out and I had to jam a nail in the fitting to block that one off to get it home. Either way, if you need cheaper easier to find brake hoses, look at a parts catalog at nissan parts.

It's been a while since I did this, but you need the backing plate, disc hub/rotor, caliper/bracket, brake pads, and the brake line. both soft brake line off the caliper and the hard one to the junction. I seem to remember not having the hardline so I cut the one already there and put a new flarenut on it.