987687
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Posts posted by 987687
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Yea, that works, just be careful when you're connecting things to the battery cable on the starter you don't short anything to ground. There's a lot of current there, i'll light up in a hurry.
I still fail to see the motive behind any of this, but it'll get the job done
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That's not a negative terminal, you put 12v to the solenoid spade terminal to run the starter. You have to connect the other end to 12v. If you're using a starter button, clip the other end to the positive terminal of the battery.Thanks. OK, now I'm not seeing a way to connect one of the alligator clips to that negative spade on the solenoid - at least not while the plug is connected to it. Can I connect to ANY grounded surface? Or does it have to be that one on the solenoid?
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It'll still start if you do that, but it'll throw a neutral safety code, I seem to recall.If you don't, the ECU won't see the signal for cranking voltage.
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I went and added one to my cart and had it calculate shipping, looks like they ship. It was only $12.
The only battery it had listed for a 98 subaru was an AGM (which makes sense for shipping) at $174. A bit more than I'd want to spend on a battery.
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They don't commonly fail. I wouldn't suspect it failed all of a sudden after brake line work, either.
It doesn't matter if the cap was on the reservoir, it can still leak out with the brake lines open.
Also check the bleeders to see if they are clogged ...
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Did you let the master cylinder leak dry when you had the brake lines apart? If you did, you'll have to start by bleeding the master cylinder, ABS pump, all the lines, etc.
Also make sure the bleeder screws in the calipers aren't plugged up. If they haven't had the condoms on them they fill up with crust and plug up. Remove the bleeder screws and clean them out with a piece of wire and brake cleaner.
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Have they told you WHY it needs a new trans? What failed? If you had a throwout bearing explode (which may be what happened since the pedal stuck to the floor), it can damage the input snout of the transmission.
If you or the previous owner spent a lot of time in traffic (likely in SF), and spent a lot of time holding the clutch pedal down, the TOB failing would make sense to me. Don't sit in traffic with your foot on the clutch, shift to neutral.
Anyway, if the input snout is damaged it's usually possible to get a bearing with a speedi sleeve and repair it. I'd ask the shop about that. Pedal sticking to floor and transmission damage are usually throwout bearing related, and can usually be repaired, definitely ask them if thath's the issue, and inquire whether or not a speedi sleeve will solve the problem.
If possible, take pictures of the damage for us to see. If they don't want to do the repair, it may be cheaper to have all the pieces transported somewhere who does.
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Next time you have a question about something acting weird, put the extended details in the first post... You left it vague and we all kinda guessed, then you told us the thing has been brutally abused. I hate to say it but... The issues you've experienced with the AWD have been self-imposed.
At this point, replace the suspect axles, get a good used transmission (make sure the ratios match...), and you'll be fine.
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If it was the clutch, the speedo wouldn't increase when the car does't accelerate. The center differential is a limited slip. so yes, it does SLIP. If you have a broken axle and abuse it enough, it'll will eventually fail and bind up.
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An axle can't be intermittently slipping... It's either broken or it isn't. Also, if you've been driving with a broken axle you've roached your center diff, once you replace the axle you'll have nasty binding like driving in 4x4 on pavement. Higher gear makes sense... You put more speed into the center diff, it spins faster, heats up, and binds tighter.
Does it stall if you put it in gear and let off the clutch without moving? If not have someone put it in first gear and sit with their foot on the brake and look under the car from behind to see if an axle is spinning. Do the same thing in reverse looking from the front so you can figure out which one it is. Obviously have them use the gear in the opposite direction of where you're peeking under the car... don't get run over!
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I'm so confused at this point... Do you have spark or not??? If you don't, you need to track that down first.
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If your car has a torsion bar spring in the rear and it's tired, both sides will sag. If the bushings are getting tired causing excessive toe or camber, it'll happen on both sides at about the same rate. If one side is way out on toe it'll cause the car to crab and wear both sides.
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The rear trailing arm setup on an ea81 is pretty much the same an an ea82, right? Because for an ea82, there actually is quite a bit of toe adjustment you can do. Wearing on the insides is either negative camber or toe out.
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If the dizzy is 180 degrees out just swap the plug wires around...
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Are you measuring the spark plug terminal? Don't do that...
You really shouldn't have anything much higher than battery voltage... The negative terminal actually will have some weird spiking on it. However it's a good one to check. You should see voltage on the negative terminal going between (nominally) ground and 12v with some high frequency ringing on the falling edge.
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How high do the RPMs go if you floor it from a stop? If you're stuck in limp mode (and thus third gear), you should hit torque converter stall around 2500 or so, can't remember the exact RPM. Not too high, though. If you mash the gas from a stop and hit redline, or over like 3k rpm your transmission is smoked, it's slipping really bad.
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I can't find it right now, but I remember reading a thread where someone did a similar swap, they used an EG33 with an adapter to, i think, a toyota transmission. Since an ej22 and an eg33 have the same bellhousing, that would work.
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How about you diagnose the problem before jumping to conclusions.
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Well it's not going to turn with a belt jammed up behind it no matter what you do. Get the belt out of there and see what's up.
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Why even keep the subaru driveline at that point? Just playing devil's advocate here, but the toyota was designed to be driven offroad and already has a driveline designed for it, why not use that?
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It's definitely a problem. The driveline in these cars is FWD with wet clutches that send power to the rear, difference in tire size will constantly slip these clutches and destroy them in short order.
Your best bet at this point is to get matching tires.
Earlier subarus had a fuse holder on the passenger side firewall under the hood that said FWD on it, you could put a 20a fuse in there to disable the awd to avoid transmission damage when using a spare tire. If your car has this fuse holder, go put a fuse in it immediately until you get the tire issue worked out.
Before you ask if you can run FWD mode indefinitely... It's a hotly debated topic, some people say it runs the solenoid at fully duty cycle to hold the clutches open, some people say it's fine and designed to work that way.... Bottom line is you have an awd car, fix the problem so it works correctly without damage.
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All the speculation in the world isn't going to help solve this case. It's a 95 so valves and pistons didn't meet. Remove the shredded belt and see if the cam gear turns, if it does that's great. Remove the cam gear, maybe that's all it needs. If the cam won't turn remove the valve cover and take a look.... Give us some update so we can help you.
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I think it's supposed to go from the ngeative terminal of the battery to a ring terminal that's bolted on by the top starter bolt.
How to correctly connect a remote starter switch/tool?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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This can't fix that... No external hack is going to fix the plunger or starter contacts. You can buy replacement starter contacts for around $15 at a dealer and replace them yourself, though. Clean up the plunger with some sandpaper and you're good for another 200k miles.