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A friend of mine bought them, blew them out in under 10k miles and they never rode very well. I've had the same experience with Gabriels. For $100 more you can get a set of KYBs and they'll last 5x longer.

Are you checking the fluid properly? Warm it up, cycle through all the gear positions, then leave the transmission in park. Check the oil in a level position with the engine running.

Is the AT TEMP light lit on the dash? Does it flash 16 times when you start the car? That's the diagnostic light for the transmission, it's possible to have that flash the trouble codes so you can figure out what's wrong. I can't remember how to do it, but there's a thread in the USRM.

Replaced all the struts on my forester. The fronts went pretty well, and the rears went ok, too. Except that I have drum brakes and when I touched the brake lines they disintegrated... Fortunately I keep a roll of brake line and flare nuts so I replaced those. Then while bleeding I noticed the line further up weeping, fixed that.... Stupid cars. By some miracle I managed in getting flare nuts AND bleeder screws loose on both sides. All that stuff looks like it was dredged up from the Titanic, so I was pleasantly surprised.

You're asking for opinions, and mine is that I don't like window banners. They're tacky and often draw the wrong kind of attention to your vehicle.

Use size zero... Seriously, don't do a window banner.

If you have to ask, generally no. It would be cheaper, more reliable, and less work to just buy a car that came with a turbo.

Make sure you get a thermostat from the dealer!!! I don't need to say more than post this picture. Someone who is fast at doing subarus should be able to bang out a timing job in an hour, it's not very hard. Yank the radiator (if you're doing the pump, why not, it's 2 bolts), then there's great access to everything on the front of the engine. If they don't have the right pulley holder tool for getting the cam pulleys off, those can waste serious amounts of time...

Put some mud tires on it and go offroading, it'll feel right at home with its new scuff and scrape friends

Can you take a picture? It should be held in with three screws. One of them is probably obscured by a plastic thingy for the power wires, the other two might be under other wiring harness wires. But as for as I remember, it's the good old 3 bolt style blower setup subaru has been using forever. Get some pics and we'll see what's up, or point you in the right direction.

Auto part stores and sometimes hardware stores have exhaust studs. Sometimes they're in the drawers full of nuts and bolts, sometimes you have to ask at the counter. I know napa carries them if you go to the counter and ask for subaru exhaust studs.

The EJ cars don't have flood clear mode, it'll just start up and zing right to redline. The GL does flood clear, but my EJs will all just start at full throttle.

What year forester? What led up to this event? Does it have spark? It's not really common for subarus to dump in too much fuel, if you smell a lot of fuel in the exhaust and it won't start, it's usually because you're missing spark.

Take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the old connector out. This happens almost every time I change plug wires.

Jumping to the conclusion that it has a broken cam lobe is ridiculous. Nobody can really say what's wrong with it until you do a bit of digging and see what's up. In my experience of 2.2s running out of oil..... they seize up good and solid. It's anyone's guess until you run some diags.

I see napa gold filters recommended by peolpe on here and other places on the net. I use them because that's what's close to me and I like hemorrhaging money at napa. But apparently they're made by Wix and one of the only brands that has the proper bypass pressure. I haven't had any issues with them so far. Just don't by Fram.

I'm up in Orono, welcome to the club!

Could be a rear bearing. They're really easy to change on that car because the're unit bearings. Just bolt the new one in. It probably isn't a transmission issue, at least, that's not where I'd start. Rotate the tires and sees if the noise follows the tire.

The 00-04 baja and outback are the same platform and have the same suspension, etc. It was 05 that they changed. I'm not sure why you'd want to lower a baja, I'd probably lift it and put bigger tires on it.... BUT, get stuff meant for 00-04 legacy/outback and it'll work on the baja, too.

Yea, other things usually get to the manual transmissions first. Input bearing failure, the input shaft nut backing off, etc.

There's a hypoid diff in the transmission, so you have to use GL-5. I've always wondered if this is why subaru synchros are crappy. Because, yea, coming from anything else putting GL-5 in a transmission is a major red flag.

There's a spring and a plunger in the door switch. When the door is open, the plunger makes contact with the body and grounds the light bulb, causing it to light up. When more than one door is open, there's more than one ground path, which is why dome lights sometimes get brighter with multiple doors open on older cars... This is because the switches get corroded and dirty and stop conducting electricity as well. The other way this can go is your problem, the switch never stops conducting electricity. If the light doesn't ever turn off, you have a short somewhere. The wire that goes to the door switches is somehow being shorted to ground, or one of the switches is full of corrosion and is always conducting a small amount of electricity which causes the light to come on dimly. Basically, you'll need to trace the wires from the door switch to the dome light, make sure they're not broken/shorting to the body, and make sure the switches aren't rusty, full of water, or corroded.

Might help to know what kind of car you drive...

The stock intake is already a cold air intake, flows well enough to add a turbo and decent horsepower, and does a good job at keeping water out. As such there's zero performance anything you get from chrome garbage. Same deal with the exhaust system. The n/a is slow and steady, not much you can do to them. The 3rd gen is a heavy car and there isn't much you can do about gas mileage. Mine was a dog, but it was comfortable and cruised nice down the highway... until the subframe cracked in half....

You're fine then. At some point around 2000 they changed from the really stupid tone ring bolted to the hub to one mounted on the axle, but kept it such that new axles are reverse compatible. That's why it has a tone ring on it. Other than that, throw it in there and you're good to go.