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Are they a different length as the second picture suggests? otherwise, it'll work fine. Newer axles have the tone ring on the axle instead of bolted behind the hub, it won't hurt anything, though. If they're the same length it'll work great.

^^^^ that. If the stock one lasted 15 years an $80 replacement is gonna outlast the car. If you aren't racing the car or trying to get more performance out of the engine, a single row plastic tank radiator is fine.

I have no idea about overall final width. Use the 2.5 headgaskets. I've done this swap without doing any machine work to the heads and it worked out ok. The 2.5 ECU has a 6500 rpm redline, if you're going for phase1 ej22 heads you'll want to use the DOHC computer. The rule of thumb is use headgaskets that match the block, use a timing belt that matches the heads. If you want different cams check out Delta, they do regrinds for subaru cams. You probably want the 1500 version for midrange. I have no idea what the final horsepower is. I put 2.2 heads on a 2.5 block and butt dyno said it had a decent amount more horsepower than a stock 2.5. 2.2 heads flow like garbage and I never dyno'd it, though.

If the worst part is getting fixed, the rest can't be that bad! Finding someone to do the work for free is gonna be hard, take pics of the things you have questions about and post em up. I'm sure you'll get enough help through the forums to piece it back together yourself. There's lots of free help on the internet, it just takes a bit of work.

I get about 20mpg in my 2.2 swapped forester... I used the 2.2 I swapped into my outback along with the outback ECU. Turns out the outback ECU can't talk to the 6-wire o2 sensor AND my check engine light is burned out. So for the last few thousand miles I've been running with no o2 sensor I guess I need to swap the crank and cam triggers over so I can run the forester ECU, and probably buy a new damn sensor.... At that point I'm hoping to see something in the higher 20's like the rest of you LOL.

I can get 05 legacy knuckles for about $50 each. I don't have a press, so by the time have a machine shop put new bearings in for me I'll break even. The rear bearings on this don't seem to be bad, the wheels rotate very smoothly, no play, and when I turn the wheel there's no vibration in the spring. I know that last one is a controversial way of checking for bad bearings ... but it sounds like it's coming from the front. The previous owner of the car had it worked on at a shop full of idiots who apparently stripped out a wheel stud. That side has all new studs, but no sign of the bearing being replaced. Which means it likely got a good dose of someone beating the hell out of it to replace the studs...

I bought a car with a 2.5D that had been overheated until the engine seized up... twice. It still ran, though... So I slammed 2.2 heads on it for raised compression to see how long it would last. Made it maybe 10k miles, had low oil pressure, and burned an inordinate amount of oil. It blew up hilariously and cracked the cylinder liner into multiple pieces and parts of the piston came out of the oil pan... But nothing was melted, no real signs of anything getting really hot. You have no idea if it was treated like this before you bought it... I bought the car knowing the engine was pooched, I just wanted to see how far I could run it... If you want a reliable car, ditch the 2.5D, especially a 96 2.5.

I have a 2002 forester that I think needs a front wheelbearing or two. Is there any reason not to swap to unit bearing front hubs from an 05+ legacy? They look more or less the same... Looks like they should just bolt in and work. But before I go buy a set, is there any reason this won't work?

HAAAAAH don't... Look up wrx transmission 2nd gear, then tell me you want a wrx transmission... They also have a 1.1:1 center differential gearing, so they're 3.90 front diff, 3.54 rear diff.

Since there's no axle disconnects on a subaru, all the rear driveline will still be spinning even if you put the fwd fuse in. So you don't gain anything. It's also argued that giving full duty cycle to the C solenoid is bad and will burn it up, I dunno if it's true or not, but just leave it in awd.

A sorta common issue is the nut that holds the input shaft together backs off. That's what ultimately killed the original transmission in my outback. Nothing drastic happened, it just wouldn't stay in gear unless I held it. The 3rd gear synchro had come off and done a lot of damage, too, but the input shaft nut was, I think, a separate issue. All the bearings and gears were pretty hosed from the lash of everything going out... Not something I'd really worry about, but if you have the tail section off I guess it's worth checking the torque on that.

If you aren't putting a turbo on it, you're not going to make enough power to outright ruin the transmission. With that said, you don't need anything over stock to break a transmission, slamming shifts, grinding gears, dumping the clutch, etc regularly will break it. If you treat the transmission with care and respect it'll be fine. If you drive like me you'll blow it up either way... ask the transmission in my outback about rallyx

I just carry a flashlight in my car. Underhood lights never shine on whatever broke. The only time I ever open my hood at night is because something broke and now I'm on the side of the highway...

04 was the first year of the sti 6 speed transmission in the US. I suggest doing a bit of research on exactly what you're going to need here...

I honestly don't know everything you need for the swap. It sorta depends on if you have an 04 transmission or later as they have different axles. To put a turbo transmission in an n/a car you're going to need the turbo clutch master/slave cylinder, obviously a turbo clutch kit. Then you'll need a product like the DCCDpro to control the center diff properly. As nepbug mentioned, the shifter and mounts are a bit different, other than that I'm not sure.

The other thing you're going to need is an automatic forester driveshaft. The 6mt is conveniently the same length as an auto, which is a bit longer than a 5mt. You can't use the STi driveshaft because the forester driveshaft has a different carrier bearing to accommodate for the dropped subframes. If you don't use a forester driveshaft it'll have horrible binding and blow out the u-joints.

I wasn't aware the wrx engine had 150k-200k in them out of the factory But yes, the bellhousings are the same on the wrx vs sti engines, so it'll bolt up.

I guess you could use the smallest tire they make for whatever rim size you have. I don't see the point of putting really tiny tires on your car...

Pics of your design? How do these compare to the tried and tested products like SJR?

You bleed the brakes on the outback the same way you bleed the brakes on anything else. Open the bleeder screw, have someone step on the brake pedal, close the bleeder screw. Don't run out of fluid in the reservoir.

No, there isn't. Bleeding the brakes is really easy, just do the job the correct way....

You'd have to check if it's broken. You'll have to take it apart and determine that. Definitely remove the caliper slide pins, clean and grease them with some brake grease. To bleed the brakes open the bleeder, have someone step on the brake pedal, when their foot is almost on the floor close the bleed screw, have them lift off the brake pedal. Repeat until the air is out. IF nothing is coming out of the bleeder screw it's probably clogged up. Take it out, clean the crap out of the little holes, and then bleed the brakes. I usually spray brake cleaner in the thing while sticking a bit of stainless wire or something through the little holes in the screw to clear it out.

Yea, I bet your bottom slide pin on the side with dragging pads is seized or partially seized causing issues.

I still have no idea what your car is, but I've had issues on the EJ cars with dual piston calipers in the front where the bottom piston kinda seizes up a bit and drags the brakes. Same with the bottom slide pin. But seriously, get it fixed properly....

It really isn't very complicated... it's just removing a bolt. But if you don't feel comfortable fixing your brakes, please take it to someone who does... Last thing I want is someone plowing into me because their brakes failed.