987687

Yea, it's in the cold when subarus have the issue with the loose fuel lines. If you google it you'll find a lot of info on it. Also before condemning the headgaskets, there is a small coolant hose that runs from the passenger side of the engine up to the throttle body, and from the throttle body back to the coolant crossover. Get a flashlight and a mirror and make sure that hose isn't leaking.

The common issue for fuel smell on these cars is the fuel line clamps on the fuel rails under the intake manifold. There are some hidden ones hard to get one, tighten them all up and see if that fixes the fuel leak smell. You can run for quite some time with an external headgasket leak. Just make sure you don't run out of coolant and it's fine. It'll definitely get you until warmer weather, besides tightening the fuel lines I wouldn't touch the headgaskets.

I'm pretty sure 00-04 bajas have the same suspension and pretty much everything else as outbacks. Rockauto lists exactly the same part numbers for outback as baja suspension. 05/06 bajas have different stuff, though, so maybe those are the ones that are stiffer. I, too, have the same issue with soft rear springs in my 00 outback, so I'm interested to see what the options here are.

I've always found it easier and cheaper to just go to the junkyard and get another one vs trying to rebuild subaru transmissions. Most of the parts are subaru only and fairly expensive.

I mean, I suppose you COULD do it with two SPDT switches, but the drawing you have there doesn't make any sense to me why pin 3 and 5 are connected to two different terminals. Doing it with two SPDT switches would be basically taking my switch diagram and cutting it in half the long way. If you have pin 3 or pin 5 connected to more than one pin, you did it wrong. What do you mean, a 7 pin DIN? The plug for the back of the radio? I seem to recall I just took the cover off the radio and soldered to the circuit board, but I can't honestly remember exactly what I did.

To avoid confusion, connecting the wrong stuff to the wrong things, get the proper switch. A DPDT switch is really cheap and it's the correct way to do this. I drew a picture, with both the circuit diagram and a picture of the connections on the actual switch for you. Just hook it up like that and you'll be fine. The tip of the audio jack is left, the small ring is right, and the big ring at the base of the connector is ground, hook that to pin 2. If you look at the circuit model, you can see that pin 5 and pin 3, the ones that go to the amp are always connected. And the other pins are either connected to the amp, or left floating (which is technically bad, but whatever). This eliminates the possibility of the wrong things being connected together, which is the worry with using multiple switches. Here's the link to my quick drawing. http://i.imgur.com/As0gOTA.jpg

Oh look at that, a pinout for that damn plug! I figured out what the pins were by just poking around with a scope. My problem all along is likely that I didn't use the correct audio ground, and I ended up chasing my tail for no reason... Oh well. Anyway, yea, put that to the to the aux jack. You can think of 1 and 3 as the aux in, and think of 1 and 4 as just another aux input, if you wanna make it simple on yourself. So basically the switch is changing between the two different aux inputs you have, one being your ipod,or whatever, and the other being the radio. Put the two wires for the amp on the common terminals of a double pole, double throw switch (DPDT), the aux in on one side, and the radio on the other. That way when you flip the switch the amp is always connected, and it just hooks up to either radio or aux.

Not much... The 97 is gonna have a 4 bolt bellhousing, the 2000 an 8 bolt. You can put a 4 bolt trans to an 8 bolt engine, though. The front and back axles are (i think) wider on the outback, but not 100% sure on that one. The driveshaft won't work. They both have different rear diffs, but if you use the one from the impreza in the outback, that's fine. Sway bars are different. I take it you're doing a manual swap in the outback? You won't be able to use the impreza clutch pedal stuff in the outback. Basically if you're looking for a parts car for the outback, not a whole ton from the impreza is gonna work. You want a 2000-2004 legacy or outback.

I did this for my GL. I can't remember the exact pinout, and it's burried under snow up a 1000' driveway right now that hasn't been plowed all year... But what I remember it wasn't very hard to hack. I think there are just two jumper links in that jumper plug. How it works is the audio output from the radio goes out to two pins, and the audio input to the amplifier goes in to two pins. When there's a tape player, it switches the input to the amp between the radio and the tape input (I can only assume), when there is no tape player that jumper plug just runs the audio out from the radio into the amplifier. So.... get a DPDT switch and make up such a circuit on your own! There's no need to jumper the other pins to put the head unit into tape player mode, the screen will still display radio information, but the amp will be playing stuff from your ipod. It's old and dumb, so it works great! I think the idea to my circuit is the input to the amp would go to the center pins of a DPDT switch, the output from the radio goes to the pins on one side, the output from my ipod goes to the pins on the other side, when you switch it, it switches the input! In reality I had a slight issue with ground loops doing this so I made a solid state circuit with an opamp and other stuff to avoid this issue, but I think if you're careful with how you ground everything it'll work fine.

This is for a 2000, but same thing. It's a sohc 2.5, all the FSMs up to 2004 use the same sequence and specs. Look on the last page of this PDF for the torque sequence and instructions http://raig0.planet.ee/subaru/Legacy%202000%20Service%20Manual/ENGINE%20SECTION/Engine/MSA5TCD00L16124.pdf

Same thing happened when I replaced my fuel pump. I held the new one in with a couple of beefy zip ties... Worked great!

I bought a 2000 outback a couple years ago, I hope you have better luck with yours than I have with mine! Welcome to the forums. Does yours have an auto or a stick?

They really put it all the way back there? weird! I guess now I know. Hopefully you can figure out why it isn't going electrically. If it works manually, and will open electrically, I'd bet the motor and all the mechanism is good. The problem is probably in a switch or something simple

on the 2nd gen the motor is above the front map lights. I'm assuming it's there on the 1st gen too, that's where almost every car puts the motor. Except for german manufactures, they probably put in the trunk with teleflex cables or something stupid... Pull the front map light assembly and the sunroof motor and control stuff should be up in there. Hopefully it isn't a jammed, stuck, broken, or stripped cable. Best way to find out is to watch the manual drive screw when you press the button. Does the motor try to spin in both directions, but get jammed going forwards? Can you manually turn it forwards? If for some unlikely reason they put the motor above the back dome light, then go check there. It just doesn't make sense as the glass slides over that light, so it would cause an unreasonably large bump down in the ceiling for all the mechanism.

On the 2nd gen, and likely the first gen, too the motor is above the map light thing. You have to remove that assembly. Likely pull the plastic cover for the light and there will be screws under there for pulling the assembly down. Then on the sunroof motor there is an allen key drive you can put a socket or allen key into to manually turn the motor/sunroof assembly. Before taking stuff apart, have you checked all the fuses? If you do end up pulling the map light assembly, check to make sure there's power to the sunroof or try to figure out why it isn't being powered. Hopefully it isn't a broken cable, but when that happens it'll usually move a little bit and bind. Replacing the sunroof, especially in a sedan is a really miserable job... I'm never owning another subaru with a sunroof....

Sure... when it runs out!

The other thing is, I don't drive this car very often. Once or twice a week at most. But this morning it started up in -15 F first crank, no problem at all. But ya, I've been worried about the fuel pump thingy for a while, so when I get some time (and a space inside...) I'll probably look at/replace it.

No I haven't done the fuel pump. And I know it's something that's a ticking time bomb on any 3rd gen. Along with some other items, it's something I need to address this summer. Even so, it runs perfectly fine when it's warm. I can (and do...) run it WOT to redline without any stumbling or issues.

Ever since it started getting cold my 2000 outback has had a weird stumble when it's cold (like below 0F...). I start it up and let it idle for a bit before driving, and while it's idling it seems to have a misfire. But it won't throw any codes. The engine will be running smoothly, then all of a sudden drop 200 rpm, run really rough, and jump back up like nothing happened. It drives perfectly fine, doesn't do this when warm, etc. It isn't getting worse or seeming to harm anything..... BUT... I'd kinda like to know what's going on here. It has new plugs and wires as of this summer, new headgaskets last month, and runs perfect when it's warm.

The steering rack is kinda loose, the rear suspension is hosed, and the rear subframe is rusty and needs to be replaced. So yea, there is a bunch of nonsense needing repaired. But other than that.... It works fairly well

Wow that sounds miserable... My outback has been fairly boring since putting headgaskets and a tie rod in it. It reliably goes and stops without making any weird or unusual noises. I'm worried...

Ugh, heater core is the one job I really never hope I have to do in my outback.

It depends what year your car is, what year the xt is, and which engine the xt has... turbo, spider intake, etc...

There are ABS sensors on all 4 corners. Check what the ABS code is for (there are guides on here) to pinpoint where the problem is. Stabbing blindly at it will result in replacing parts that aren't broken, possibly causing more problems.

Don't weld it, just get the right gap and it should be fine. It's just a hall effect sensor so it really doesn't care too much about the valleys.