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I've done it a few times with good results. If you get the tone ring off the donor car without cutting it, you can cut two grooves in a lot spot about half way through the material, then hit it with a cold chisel and cleanly break the ring, that way when you put it back together there isn't any gap. I've done it both ways and it worked both ways, though. Getting it off the donor car in one piece is a pita unless you take an o/a torch and cut the hub off or something...

The front sway bar is BROKEN??? Did a shop tell you that? pics of it? Sway bars don't break. It is, however, likely you have a broken swaybar end link. They cost about $10 on rockauto.com and they're really easy to replace. Auto to manual swap isn't really that hard, per se. It isn't too much harder than swapping out a broken transmission, just a few extra steps here and there. However, if you aren't comfortable working on cars it would likely be a gigantically daunting task.

yes. A friend of mine runs a shop and has had quite a few subarus up to 2010 in for headgaskets and blown up engines. There's no getting away from it with a 2.5, just do the headgaskets properly with good headgaskets and it won't be a problem.

The battery life is surprisingly good, change time is decent. If you have two batteries you can work on a decent project without having to worry too much.

Yea, later loyales have the same gauge cluster as the GL except it's missing the oil pressure and the volt meter. Volt meter is easy to add, you just hook it to the 12v supply and it tells you how many volts are there. The oil pressure probably isn't hard, either. You do, however, probably have to swap the oil pressure sender. It's likely your car has an "idiot light sender" meaning it sets the light on if it's less than 5psi or whatever. So you'd have to change that out to the GL sender. Honestly, I don't see the point. The oil pressure gauge almost never gives any useful readings, the stock setup is all over the place and somewhat useless. Check to see if your gauge cluster already has the lights for low range. It'll be in the center section that has the little icon of the car, if you look at it closely you'll see lights in there that may not be used in your application. It may have the low range light. To wire it up you probably have to find the low range signal wire on the transmission and run a wire to the gauge for it. I've never bothered hooking those up on my GL, which was converted from an automatic. If I'm in 4x4 I know it because I'm driving in snow or something, and if I'm using low range I DEFINITELY know it. I'm driving on a loose surface AND going offroad, over curbs, through the woods or something... I think of it like know what gear you're in driving down the road, there's no light on the dash to tell you you're in 3rd gear, if you drive a stick you should just know what gear you're in. If you drive a 4x4 you should know that, part of being in tune with the car. My $0.02...

A friend of mine has a milwaukee 1/2" cordless impact. It's pretty good. It's great in the junkyard or on the side of the road when something is broken. Maybe changing a tire in the shop when I don't wanna run an air hose. I still way prefer my 1/2" pneumatic, though. It's lighter, more powerful, smaller to fit in tight spots, and I can run it 100% duty cycle going nuts ripping things apart. If you do that on an electric impact you'll overheat it. Even when I do rally service for the race car, I drag my generator and 30 gal compressor along with me to the service park. Electric impacts are a long way for replacing pneumatic tools for me. Once you have a good pneumatic rattle gun in your hand, you're gonna be hard pressed to let it go.

Nope, don't bother with the ECU.

I think 97 has the newer style tensioner. You can use the older style tensioner, though. Just swap the whole bracket. It bolts to the block with 3 bolts.

It's a good idea anyway, interferance or not, it's gonna interfere with your day when the timing belt breaks.....

It'll drop directly in, everything will bolt, all electrical will just plug in for the most part. The two key differences are the 95 has the charcoal canister under the hood, whereas the 97 has by the gas tank. Just change the plumbing to match, or put the 95 intake manifold on the 97 engine, simple enough to do. The other difference is the exhaust header on the 97 is a single port header, whereas it's a dual port header on the 95. This is easy, just take the header off the 97 and put it on the 95. It'll just bolt up.

Yep, it'll be fine. If you're replacing the water pump with the new timing belt, make sure you get one that has two ports on it, one for the heater core, one for the oil cooler.

The stock oil pressure gauge is unreliable, not accurate nor precise. Basically if the needle moves you have oil pressure, if it drops to zero you don't... That's really about as much information as it gives you. They just plain suck. If you really want to know your oil pressure get an aftermarket gauge. And yes, you can have high oil pressure. It can be caused by excessive RPM when the engine is cold or something clogging the oil flow, which I don't think I've ever heard of on a subaru.

Make sure you have a good connection to the block when you test it. It sounds like you ended up with a idiot sensor, one that turns on a light if the pressure drops below 5 psi or whatever. When you hook these up to a car with an actual pressure gauge, it'll read max pressure when the engine is running, and 0 when it's off.

A few things could be going on here, the battery would have been disconnected, and as such the computer "forgot" all it's data on trends and gas mileages. And if you live somewhere cold, you're now probably on a winter blend of gas, letting your car warm up more, etc. And as such you're going to get worse gas mileage. Before the headgaskets were done, your average was based on your city and highway driving, etc. If you've only been doing lower gas mileage driving lately, yea, I can see that reflecting in the average gas mileage more since it doesn't have as much data to average over.

I usually grab the sensors and stuff, then toss the blocks. If you want to keep other parts to rebuild stuff for yourself, go ahead. But blown up ej25's have nearly an infinite supply, and thus no real market..

You should really have a tune with intake and exhaust modifications.

What's your desired end result here? You can bolt a 2wd trans into a 4wd car if you wanna do that for some reason, why not. You just won't have a rear driveshaft. You can also put a 4wd trans in a 2wd car, just put a stub in the end of the tranny so it doesn't leak fluid out. Not sure why you'd want to do this, but go ahead, it'll work.

It isn't that, the cruise light flashes when the CEL is on as a ploy to piss you off and actually fix the problem, rather than putting electrical tape over the CEL...

You fixed your CEL with injector cleaner...? ok. First step is to take the car somewhere with a code reader and figure out what code(s) are tripping the light to come on. Without doing this, it's anyone's guess what's causing the problem. It's probably p0420 or some other emissions related thing, but bring it to an auto parts store, garage, friend, etc with a code scanner is your first step.

Is it an automatic? Is there coolant in the ATF? Pulling the engine is 2 bellhousing bolts and two bellhousing nuts extra. That's literally it. You have to unbolt the engine mounts and jack the engine up a bit anyway to get the heads off. Doing the gaskets and timing belt with engine out of car is so much easier, especially your first time around. I don't consider it any extra time, to be honest. Also your back is gonna be pissed off bending over the engine bay for hours screwing around with it or laying under the car reaching up. Having done it both ways, pull the engine.

It's probably the coil pack. Coils on most things (cars, boats, small engines, etc) fail in this fashion. A friend of mine just went through this on his forester. Basically since it's mounted on top of the engine the hottest it gets is just after the engine is shut off. No more coolant flowing, so everything gets heat soaked under the hood and gets pretty hot. Coils generally fail because of heat related issues, so that's what I would have replaced first. The other deceiving thing with a failing coil, sometimes you'll get weak spark, but it's not sparky enough to actually run an engine. It takes a much higher voltage to ionize compressed air/fuel than ambient air pressure.

You took a risk on it, too. The 00/01 transmissions have the whole not engaging into gear issue. Regardless, someone bought a parts car as is where is without having heard it run/drive and you provided no warranty the engine was good. Because you never heard it run/drive, either. Anyone who knows subarus should know buying a randomass ej25 is a crapshoot. If he overpaid it's honestly his fault. You didn't lie to him, he didn't have to buy it. You're in the clear on this one.

The 2.2 will run forever if you keep oil in it. These things are underpowered tanks.

I ran the VIN. Last report was a major accident in 2004, and was given a salvage title. It went to auction in 2006, last reported mileage on carfax was 55,933. Apparently a single owner car. Not sure why there's no info past 06

To swap tensioners you need to swap the tensioner bracket as well. IIRC it's held onto the block with three screws. You can use the bracket off your old engine, or any subaru engine with the newer style tensioner, for that matter. They're all the same. I assume all engines are interferance. Breaking a timing belt on the side of the highway at night sucks and will ruin your day (actually several days).... Don't use it as an excuse to ignore maintenance...