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You could always remove the oil pan and bring it inside so the jb weld cures replace it with one that isn't rusty!

I don't even use a gasket, I just use ultra grey permatex. The anaerobic stuff, I've never had a problem doing it that way. I've had the stupid gaskets leak all the time...

I replaced the clutch in my GL. It had normal engagement for about a year, then it got crappy like you describe. I sorta just get used to it. It goes and stops so I'm happy.

You've already put more effort into this than you would if you just replaced the oil pan... You can do the oil pan without even dropping the headers. Just remove the dogbone engine mount at top, the two nuts on the engine mount and jack the driveline up from the transmission. You can get the back bolts with a wobbly extension. Replace it and never worry about the patch falling off on a roadtrip, at night, in the rain.... Murphy says that'll happen.

You want about 1/8" to 1/4" play at the clutch fork. If you make the table too tight it's like always having your foot on the clutch pedal. The clutch on my GL has a crappy engagement, too. But it doesn't slip at all. I'd say if it doesn't slip, just run it. When it's a problem throw a new clutch in. It's ridiculously easy in these cars.

LOL chris@sric:~$ ping knock ping: unknown host knock

A friend of mine ran sensens and they didn't last all that long. If you don't drive it on really crappy roads full of holes all winter they'll probably hold up fine, though. FWIW, KYB struts are around $60 on rockauto.

Different word for the same thing.... The knock sensor doesn't detect rod knock

Actually 03 is going to have EGR (unless the baja is wildly different from the legacy/outback). The engine block is the same as 00-04, but the heads are 03 only because 04 has the oval exhaust ports. Your best bet is to get an 00-04 engine block and bolt your heads onto it. Whatever used engine you get you're going to want to replace the head gaskets anyway, it would be insane not to. So just save yourself the trouble of finding an 03 and re-use your heads.

New u-joints from rockford drivelines are about $40 each. The only tools I used to install mine were a file, some sandpaper, a punch, vise, and a BFH. Seriously, it's not hard, it's not rocket science. As long as you take it easy and pay attention to detail it comes out balanced and works fine. For some reason shops are terrified of touching staked u-joints and I don't get it. I really do wish I took pics of my repair jobs and documented it... Maybe next time.

Interesting. Have you tried putting in a higher octane gas in warmer temps to see if the pinging goes away? If that's the case you may actually gain a touch of power.

I did, it wasn't loose. I didn't remove the driveshaft from the diff, but I gave it a good hard shake from under the car, and it was tight. Should probably unbolt it and check, though. It's a really easy thing to do. That and drain the diff... Probably needs a flush anyway.

Friend of mine has a 2004 outback limited with an automatic transmission. It doesn't have VDC badges on the tailgate, shifter, dash, or grill. No AT TEMP light flashing on the dash. The ATF is ever so slightly dark, but very red, clear, and doesn't smell burned. When he's cruising or accelerating at any speed there's a rhythmic thumping from the back of the car, and you can almost feel it in the seat. It sounds pretty bad. It does not happen on decel. It happens always whether he's cornering OR GOING IN A STRAIGHT LINE. The issue goes away completely with the FWD fuse. It definitely isn't a torque bind issue, there's no binding or whatnot doing circles in a parking lot. Been through that with an ex-car so I know exactly how it feels. I crawled under the car, rear axles are tight, no rips in the boots. All the driveshaft u-joints, center bearing, and CV are tight with no play. Only concerning thing I saw was 1/8th to 1/4 rotation play in the driveshaft with all 4 wheels on the ground. I don't think there should be that much play in the diff. I'm thinking the rear diff is buggered and suggested draining it and checking it out. That would be the best part to fail, they're cheap and painless to swap. What's you guy's opinions on what could be going on?

Interesting, I didn't know that. I'll keep that in my toolbox of hacks to get broken cars moving again

They're the same. Sometimes replacement ones look a bit different, or have a second connector at the sensor itself. But 95-99 (actually 90-04) will have the white single prong plug for the sensor. Make sure the mating surface on the block is clean as that's how the sensor grounds and listens for knocks.

HAHAHAHAHA that's hilarious.

That works, it's the kind of repair you just grab whatever is close and throw it in there... That's how I fix most stuff, though

I should probably do that some day before mine fails, what IC did you use for the power supply? I think I have a box of LT1533 switch mode ICs on my desk. They have a max of something like 1 amp, should be enough for a clock! My GL's clock keeps great time. The clock in the gauge cluster of my outback, however.... Stupid thing gains almost a minute a day. It's pathetic.

You're trying to hammer the hub out of the knuckle...? Or you can't get the knuckle off the strut? If you're trying to beat the hub out of the knuckle, STOP. Look at a manual of how to take the wheelbearing apart, there are internal clips that hold everything together and you need a press.

Those rear bearings on those are miserable if you don't have a press and the proper tools. I did a ton of those when I worked at a shop, and they're really easy to screw up causing them to fail later on. And yep, that horrible bolt that holds the lateral links to the knuckle is the worst thing ever.... I wish I could get back all those hours of my life I spent removing those bolts by force... I'd probably pull the knuckle off and bring it with the new wheelbearing to a reputable machine shop and have them install the bearing. If you do buy a junkyard knuckle, put a new bearing in it before installation. Putting a used bearing in your car is kind of a waste of time... It's bound to fail sooner than later.

Put headgaskets in the outback, it was so happy the muffler fell off

Call me crazy, but I'd take the 1st gen any day.

Get better tires, upgrade your suspension, and maybe take a driving course to learn to handle the car better. There isn't really anything you can do to squeeze more power out of an ej22, so make the car perform better and upgrade driver software.

The arrow is cylinder #1 TDC. The marks actually put all the pistons in the middle. Doing it this way you don't have to worry about valve/piston interferance when timing (on later engines), but mostly because one of the cams won't happily sit in the TDC position making it extremely difficult to time.

I had to do that on my car years ago, made a world of difference.