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Do you get any reflection through the T-tops with those?

Dunno, got them off rockauto. It's lifted, though so I can't comment on stock ride height.

Put GR2s in all 4 corners of my GL. OH MY spoob it handles and drives so much better. Wow, should have done that 2 years ago when it started to get bad... Now if I fixed the brakes it would feel like a new car... Or I could just get a new car. That poor thing has SERIOUS structural rust.

WOW that's clean in there! I've gotta do those along with the oil pan on my GL. It leaks like a sieve, actually drips oil while it's running haha. Full on chassis lubrication system

Well since he has both cars he already has the proper y-pipe..

The 95 motor will mechanically and electrically drop directly into the 98. You might have to change one vacuum solenoid for the evap line, but it's a fairly easy swap. I don't know if the 98 has EGR because I don't know what enigne or model it is and I don't have a picture.

Well the 95 motor doesn't have EGR. If the 98 doesn't either, it's a direct drop in. If the 98 has EGR you'll have a check engine light for that, if you don't care it doesn't hurt anything.

What engine does the 98 have? Assuming the 95 is an automatic and the 98 is a dual cam 2.5, it's a direct swap everything bolts up and plugs in. Otherwise, give us details.

Yes, actually. They don't even put a temp gauge anymore. They put a warning light now. Maybe it dings, I dunno. Never seen a newer one overheat.

So get under there with a flashlight and find out where it's leaking. Where in newengland are you? Maybe someone near you would stop by and take a look or something. I've helped and been helped out by locals on this board before.

You're losing a GALLON!!!!!!!!! Every time you let the car sit? Yea, you have a serious problem. That's a big enough leak you should see it hemorrhaging from somewhere. The cooling system is only like 2 gal or something, so losing a gallon is a serious problem, you need to find that.

In the case of radiators, fans, the coolant system, the water pump, outside weather and climate effects, heavy hauling or substantial up hill terrain challenges, leaks, etc., what are the preventative measures that should be taken and measures that should be taken after a problem develops with 2.5 and 2.2 engines? Make sure your radiator isn't clogged or old, you have a subaru thermostat, and the system is full of coolant, it'll be fine. Is the hot/cold sensor on the dashboard a reliable measure of threats to having the engine overheat? The temp gauge isn't the best, it favors the middle. When I was having issues with one of my cars I was watching a OBD2 reader for temp rather than the gauge, the temp gauge doesn't start to budge until about 220 degrees. I found out there was a problem because the engine was running at 195 F on the highway cruising along. Since 195 is cooler than the engine gets sitting idling in traffic, the temp gauge was right in the middle, but that's unacceptably hot cruising along the highway on a cool day. So a digital readout will help know if you're in an acceptable range for the driving you're doing. How high does the dial have to go up before a real threat to the integrity of the engine develops? It's more of a how long rather than a how high issue. If you drive with the gauge pegged for a long time, you likely overheated the oil and did damage to bearings. If the gauge starts to peg and you shut down immediately, you probably didn't harm anything (although there's clearly something wrong to begin with...) Does letting the vehicle cool off change the dynamic of the water flow in the radiator, the overflow, and throughout the engine? Say what? How long should a Subaru be allowed to cool off if it overheats before it is restarted? Until you figure out why it overheated and added coolant... If the temp is back down to normal, run it. and watch the gauge closely. Why is a hot engine hard to start? Partly because the computer will be giving it less fuel due to the fact fueling is in part based off engine temperature, the compression might be a bit low if oil is cooked off the rings If the water pump is going bad, how much water does it leak, does the water only come out of it or other places in that case, how much notice do you have before it must be replaced? In my experience the only thing that really fails on the WP (at least if you replace it at the 105k mile timing belt interval) is the bearing, the seal will leak if an idiot installed it last. Why is the 2.5 more prone to permanent damage and does the 2.2 installation replacement significantly impact the power available as well as strain it inordinately when in a station wagon? The 2.5 is temperamental about being overheated and abused, I don't know why. I have a 2.2 in my 2000 outback and it's annoyingly slow. Are synthetic coolants or other forms of extraordinary options worth considering to augment the cooling system? The cooling system works fine if the radiator is in good shape, you have a subaru OEM tstat and don't have headgasket issues. If you really want, go get a dual row aluminum radiator.

Same thing works for trans swaps, just in reverse. Have the trans in a gear, then I have a piece of driveshaft I cut off, so it's just a stub that goes into the trans. This keeps oil from draining on my face, but also as I'm pushing the trans into the engine I can rotate it to mate the splines. Works a treat every time!

I put the transmission in gear and put a breaker bar on the crank. As I'm pushing the engine into the transmission I rotate the crank just a tiny bit back and forth, that mates up the splines and it goes right together. I've done tons of subaru engine swap, never once had a hint of a problem mating them.

They're the same thing... You might be thinking about upgrading to disc brakes if your forester has drums?

I sorta ghetto repaired my doughnut gasket. I really really hate doughnut gaskets, but the exhaust should flex there so I'm probably just gonna weld in a flex joint. Seriously, doughnut gaskets in the rust belt are the worst thing, they rust out every 2 years.... Or just put stacks through the hood with tractor flappers and be done messing with the exhaust forever

The issue was the headgaskets in my outback are going, so I was parking the outback, fixing the exhaust on the GL, and driving that back to school. I wasn't gonna get to the GL until after everything was closed... I bought a bunch of different bits and pieces and still ended up welding stuff together. The GL prevails, it's been more reliable than any EJ car I've ever had.

I basically have to make this work tonight with minimal screwing around. So I'm just gonna weld stuff to stuff and make it fixed. Just trying to figure out what size exhaust pipe to buy... since nobody knows i'll buy two different sizes and return one or something...

Oops sorry, ea82 header, 1989. I think it's either 1-3/4 or 1-7/8...

I've been finding conflicting info, what's the size of the header pipe right before it goes to the doughnut gasket flange? Here's a picture with an arrow pointing to the location I want the size of...

Next time you're better off not to scratch the contacts trying to clean them. This will increase their surface area and remove the surface coating so it'll be much more likely to corrode in the future. Usually I'll use electronics cleaner and one of those black erasers for pen. You can usually pick them up at art stores, etc. Just "erase" the corrosion and crap off the board to clean it up. This generally gives you a much better repair and longer service life. Also a toothbrush is great for scrubbing the surface without removing any coating.

Every subaru trans (and auto front diff) has done this to me. I always just assumed it breathed through the dipstick hole.

Still don't fill the trans too fast, or it'll burp a big belch of oil out of the dipstick... All over the cat. Which smells great for the next few miles

Did they surface the heads, clean the block mating surface, and make sure everything is perfectly clean and dry? Did they try to put some crap on there to seal the gasket? (DON'T DO THIS) What headgaskets were used? The heads almost never crack, it sounds like they're doing something wrong.

Sounds like any other subaru to me. After sitting a while oil will drain out of the cylinders and the compression will go down a bit just because the residual oil has drained off a bit, so engines often have to crank a bit more after sitting a while. If my GL sits for a few weeks it has to crank over a few times before it'll fire. If it sits a few weeks and I crank it over for 10 seconds with no fuel/ignition, then hook those up and crank it again. It starts up like it's warm. Likely the same deal going on with your car.