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I did a quick search on craigslist in your locale and came up with over 100 results on subaru wheels... As mentioned above, anything oem 16" of a legacy/outback/impreza (not sti) will fit. If you take some time to search through, you may even find a good deal on snow tires. https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/search/wta?query=subaru&sort=rel

For anyone who doesn't know what harbor freight is, it's the best place to buy the worst tools. Y'all should be jelly

I had a metal window crank in my brighton, here's how I did it. Went to harbor freight and bought the cheapest vise grips they had Was such a piece of spoob I left em there when I totaled the car.

I agree with GD. Even though I don't work as a mechanic anymore, I want to get my DIY work done as fast as I can. The less time I spend screwing around with my daily driver the happier my life is. Also, if you use all new brake parts and do the job properly you'll probably get another 60k out of them. Doing a halfassed job usually ends up costing more money in the long run if you plan on keeping the car.

If you don't get a $7 hardware kit you'll be extremely pissed off trying to get the parking brake back together. Rotors for cars are generally so cheap it's more expensive to have them turned than it is to replace them. If there's any question, just get new rotors, it's cheap and the proper way to do the job. The only time it's usually worth turning brakes is on 1-ton trucks and up where rotors can be over $100 for a pair. Cars don't usually even have enough meat on the rotors to turn them, they'll be too thin.

Don't have autolite or whatever do it. I found a good glass installer by asking a body shop who they contract glass to. They don't use crap shops.

The broken cup holder is really the final straw, I'd let it go It's really up to you, you probably have a lot of maintenance coming up. If you haven't already done it, timing belt should be done before you drive one more mile. Those engines aren't known for lasting forever, you should probably remove the turbo feed oil screen if you haven't already. Giving a turbocharged car to a kid as their first car is probably not a very good idea, get em like a 2.2 legacy or something that's cheap, slow, reliable, and won't go from 50 to 100 in 5 seconds. If I had a LGT as my first car I definitely wouldn't have appreciated it, but moreover would probably have died... That 2.5 outback had enough power to get me in trouble as it was...

You don't have to wait until your windshield gets broken before you can claim insurance on it, just say it's a safety issue because you can't see where you're going.... They'd rather pay for a windshield replacement than a collision. If you're really pissed off at your car, hit it with a hammer and say someone vandalized it and then claim insurance. It won't change you getting a new windshield, but it'll make you feel better...

Yea, that's usually how I get dizzys lined up. You get close enough it'll usually run so you can use a timing light. Otherwise you're just stabbing in the dark. And yea, is it even possible to change pushrods in place? Do you have to jack the engine up and push it all the way to one side to get clearance? sounds nasty...

All the settings are vacuum controlled, if you don't have vacuum to the system it obviously won't work. On the driver side under the outside vent there's a lever with three positions. It's been a while since my GL has been on the road, but it moves between outside air coming directly into the vent to heater air into the vent. Make sure the lever is in the correct position. The outside passenger vent is similar except it's a knob under the vent to change it from outside air to hvac. The center vents and defrost should always be connected to the hvac system. If your vacuum lines aren't hooked up it's possible the blend doors are blocking air from coming out any vents or it's in recirc mode. That's the first thing you should check. Another common issue is the lower fan speeds burning out, mine would only work on speeds 3 and 4, so make sure your fan is running.

One might be a bit longer than the other, the bigger issue is the material of the pushrods. The ones for solid lifters are aluminum so they expand as they heat up and keep everything in adjustment. The hydraulic pushrods are steel. At this point put the correct pushrods in, confirm you have good compression on all cylinders, and confirm you have your timing correct. I'm guessing one of those is causing you grief.

When you take the valve cover off they either have adjustments or they don't.... This post has a pic and some talk about valve adjustment. Basically if yours has screws with nuts where the picture points at the bottom, they're manual adjusted and you should check valve lash. If they're hydraulic, that's probably not your problem.

Does it have manual adjusted valves or hydraulic valve adjusters?? If it has manual valve adjustments, make sure they aren't too tight holding valves open. That will cause no compression. ie. if they're manual, set the valve lash if you haven't already done so.

It rotates clockwise looking at the front of the engine.

Are you sure cylinder 1 is firing in the compression stroke? I've accidentally gotten ignition timing 360 degrees out before so it's firing in the exhaust stroke... If you're 100% sure ignition timing is right, dump a bit of gas down the carburetor and see if it'll fire, you might not be getting fuel. 83 has solid valve adjusters, right? Make sure it's not adjusted too tight holding valves open.

I'm confused on your terminology... Turning over means when you turn the key the engine spins, it sounds like that's happening. Do you mean it's spinning but won't start? The belt also goes around the water pump, make sure the belt is on correctly, if it isn't I can see it squealing. Did you get the plug wires back in the right place and the correct ignition timing? It's a pretty simple engine, there isn't too much to go wrong. Also, since you've accidentally posted two of the exact same thread, I'd advise editing the other thread. Just say to look at this one. Otherwise you may get replies in both and it's confusing. You can edit your post by clicking the edit button in the bottom right of your post. Double threads can happen because sometimes posting goes slowly, if you click the post button a second time two threads happen.

Those fords had a tuning issue that caused them to slip the lockup clutch in certain conditions and clog the return oil passage ways. The result was when hot they'd sometimes fail to disengage (or slip more and make it worse...). Although everything about that era ford was horrible...

Look in the rear wheel well and see if there's a spring around the shock or not, then you'll know definitively. I'd suggest you do that before accidentally ordering the wrong part.

I use rockauto.com, they usually have pretty good deals on parts for any car you're working on. I dunno on struts vs. torsion bars on your car, look in the wheel wells and see if you have a spring or not... Don't buy garbage brand struts (gabriel, sensen....), the KYB GR2 struts are pretty decent and usually a very good price.

Jacking by the pan either blocks fluid flow or breaks solenoids/wiring depending where the jack was. I've seen both happen.

Yes, and if you hide it further away it can rust on in silence. I guarantee if you just paint over that with any product on the shelf, it'll rust through.

No, not necessarily. It's possible it only leaks when things heat up. The fairly deterministic way of telling whether you have an internal headgasket leak is a hydrocarbon test in the radiator. You can get test kits pretty cheap if you want to do it yourself. When it's overheating, do you have heat? When it's overheating, is the bottom radiator hose way cooler than the top?

Your legacy has OBD2, just plug in a scanner. If you don't have one take it to an auto parts store. They'll usually scan the code for free in the hopes they can sell you a service. OBD2 scanners are also pretty cheap, you can get ones that connect to your phone for under $20.

Cutting it out seems like a ridiculous extreme, covering it over will just let it rust through in silence. You can probably reach in there with a die grinder with a carbide on it, or a long handled wire brush and clean it up to bare metal. Then paint it, not a huge deal.

Sometimes the flexplate and TQ rust and stick together which causes the TQ to pull out, it's not only because of misalignment. For that reason I always take a screwdriver or something and push the TQ toward the transmission to make sure it isn't stuck to the flexplate prior to pulling the engine. As others have stated, replacing the front seal is pretty easy. Just make sure you go get one sooner than later. Dealers don't always have them in stock, I've had to wait a few days before.