Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

987687

Members
  • Posts

    4285
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Everything posted by 987687

  1. WOW jealous. I really want (need) to find a clean wagon. My sedan is rusted to bits and my outback pushed me over the edge and I'm selling it ASAP.... Lucky find!
  2. I second it's probably piston slap. My car sounds like it's gonna put a rod through the block when it's cold. After it's warmed up, sounds perfect. It's a subaru thing.
  3. Jack up the wheel and shake it side to side and up/down to make sure something isn't loose. If the car showed up at my shop with that description, that's where I'd start. Something must be loose, so find it.
  4. That's going to be a monster with a supercharged 3800! Damn. You'll be pushing way more than 200hp. I love it!
  5. I have a driveshaft I cut off in the junkyard. I use that as a plug whenever I have to pull a trans. It fits perfectly and makes it not leak
  6. Don't let Worst Buy touch your new car. They'll cut the wiring harness up and make a disaster of everything. I've had to work on cars butchered by them and it's a sad sight
  7. In my outback, power mirrors are the only other thing on that fuse. I'd start with checking the fuse...
  8. The new seal probably does have a spring inside of it. You just didn't look hard enough. If it doesn't it's a crap quality seal that's gonna leak. When you removed the old seal, the spring came out. It happens, it's not a big deal. Don't remove the seal you just put in, you'll break it. It looks like you have plenty of room to carefully extract the old spring. Put everything together and you'll be fine.
  9. First check to make sure you don't have a wiring issue causing the light to come on. Second, get a real oil pressure gauge so you can see what is actually going on. Did you pull the oil pump, tighten the screws, and reseal that, too?
  10. Sounds like as you jack, you're pulling the hub outward. Be careful not to do that too much as you can pop the axle apart. I usually put the balljoint in the knuckle first, push the balljoint all the way inward. If you leave it sticking straight down like it comes out of the box, yea, it's hard to get in. On a lifted rig sometimes you have to use a ratchet strap or similar to pull everything inward enough to get it together. Not lifted it should go together fairly easily.
  11. The balljoint came out of the knuckle easily? DAMN, you're lucky. Yea, I'd put it back in so I could pry the other side out. When you're prying, hammering, swearing, etc leave the nut on there, just a few turns loose. You don't want it to come loose and hurt yourself... Ask me how I know about that
  12. It isn't really either. There's a pinch bolt that holds the balljoint into the knuckle, and a taper seat with a nut that holds the balljoint into the control arm. I've never used a press to get them out, I've always just used a big prybar, swearing, hammer, and the torch... If you live in a rusty area, it's gonna be stuck. Be really careful not to break the pinch bolt, there's no excuse to break it. If it's stuck, use penetrant, heat, and patience. Breaking the pinch bolt ruins your day.
  13. I've heard of exhaust systems doing that before... I had my catback fall off on the highway once. It was hitting the road making a terrible noise, and I just KNEW as I drove over the rumble strips to pull over it was gonna catch.... And catch it did! Fortunately it was so rusty it just crumpled like a pretzel instead of pole vaulting my car into the woods.
  14. The easiest way to do a turbo swap is to swap the whole car for one that came with a turbo.
  15. I think it's plastic. Although a friend of mine who is a tech told me when the foam ones sink it's because there's water in the brake fluid. It absorbs water and sinks.
  16. Found the problem.... The float for the low fluid switch ... SANK. I used a piece of stainless bailing wire to fish it up, the DRLs come on and the BRAKE light goes out. Let go and it slowly sinks back down to the bottom. WEIRD. I unplugged the harness so it isn't grounded. Not ideal because now I don't have a low fluid warning. But leaving it plugged in leaves the light on and annoys the spoob out of me. So yea, never seen that before.
  17. I've never seen a subaru with sensors in the brake pads... just euro cars. Maybe newer subarus do? dunno You hit it on the head, DRLs don't come on. So it has to be the wiring to the parking brake handle somewhere.
  18. The BRAKE light is lit on the dash of my manual 2000 outback. Things I have confirmed are NOT the problem. Parking brake switch makes contact when handle goes up/down. Master cylinder reservoir is full of fluid Alternator is charging correctly (bat light isn't on anyway) Nothing seems wrong with the car, just curious about the light.
  19. You do realize you don't have to remove the steering wheel to get the gauge cluster out, right? You can just adjust the wheel to it's lowest position, turn it 90 degrees to the right, and the gauge cluster just comes right out...
  20. $375 honestly isn't a bad price for a set of new tires mounted and balanced. Granted, you're probably getting crap... I second craigslist, etc. I've gotten some really good deals on tires.
  21. I've worked an a lot of subarus, all the 2.5s blow up. Yes, even your single cam ones. When the SOHC 2.5 in my outback blew up I got a 2.2 shortblock from the junkyard for $40. So they're not too expensive. Of course random guy on craigslist is gonna want too much, but when you know somebody at a junkyard
  22. The guy before my friend had the car junked it for some unknown reason... it's an odd situation.
  23. Huh, we actually have the original heads, so no worries there. Not putting a crap 2.5 back in there... it's getting a 2.2 heh.
  24. That's a good idea, thanks. What cam gear goes with which sprocket? Does the cam gear with only two bumps go with the new style crank gear that has a bunch of teeth?
  25. Friend has a 2000 Forester with a manual transmission. It doesn't have an engine. So the big question is, which of the two crank gears is this car supposed to have? I know around this time they could either have the reluctor wheel with a lot of teeth, or the older style with not so many teeth. It would be fantastic to know rock solid for sure which one it needs before having to change them out in car. If anyone knows for 100% sure which it needs, that would be great... We're trying not to confuse this anymore.
×
×
  • Create New...