987687

Few things: As I mentioned I don't have the car here, also I don't have a speedo cable in the car anyway. I'm driving my horrible outback, I don't even know why. The gl is better.

It's not exponential. The cable is connected to the output shaft which turns 3.9 times faster than the wheels. That's about it. I'm good on the math front. I need to know how far the car travels per pulse from the speed sensor, have a timer counting accurate time, and just do some simple math on it. If I chose the right units for distance and the correct prescaler it'll be extremely easy to to calibrate for different tire sizes. Just drive one exact measured mile. See how far you went on the odometer, and bammo, there's your scale factor to calibrate the system. I can do math and write the firmware.... I just need to know how many turns the cable would do per turn of the output shaft. By knowing this, I know how fast I need to turn the gauge head for any given speed (roughly), and the main reason I need to know that is so I can chose a motor to run the gauge head. Some steppers might not go fast enough, etc. Of course in a few weeks when I have all my spares and stuff out of storage, yea. I can test it. But for now I have most of the code written, I just need to chose some parts. The size of the tire is actually somewhat irrelevant. All you need to know is how far you traveled, and how far the odometer indicates. This is your scale factor. I guess I also don't really need to keep track of time. But ultimately I also want a digital display for exact mileage (for TSD race purposes), and have some other info like oil temp, pressure, etc.

I'm not really sure how to title this one. But I'm looking for how many rotations the speed cable does per rotation of the output shaft on a 5mt/dr. Context: I want a working speedo on my GL, and I want it to display the correct speed. I also want to be able to calibrate it for different tire sizes, etc. I'm just gonna throw a three wire VSS in the transmission and drive a stepper motor or whatever to spin the gauge head. Since I'm not gonna see the car for a few more weeks, knowing how fast the cable spins will let me chose the proper parts and get most of the circuit and firmware ready so it's an easy process to just plug it into the car. I don't know if I can spin a stepper fast enough to drive the gauge head or not, so knowing how many turns the cable is supposed to do per turn of output shaft will help figure out how best to drive it.

Bolt it on with the allen head bolts, I just fill in the gaps left my hacksawing the ring in half.

Go to the junkyard and cut one off carefully with a hacksaw. Put it back on your car carefully preserving the proper spacing between the two halves and fill the joint with JB weld (not sure if you need to do that or not). It's a bit hack, but it's worked for me in the past. Worst case it doesn't work and you wasted a bit of time and maybe a few bucks.

Magic!

Nice!!! thanks. Should be nice and clean being in the engine bay. Or at least, not a total pile of crust.

Ugh, ok. So where do I get a new valve?

Forgot the year, it's an 89, and it's a sedan. if that actually matters.

So this summer I have to redo all the brake lines on my GL. So I'm just gonna rip everything in the back of the car out and start over, because at this point that's the best option. But what should I do about the stupid proportioning valve? It's a ball of rust, I'm never getting the old lines out of it, and don't even want it back in the system. I've swapped to rear disc brakes, so do I even need it anymore? Or can I just get a splitter and run one line to each back wheel and call it good.

You could probably tow it around the parking lot behind the BRAT. But taking it over about 5mph would be really dumb/hilarious.

Oh yea! I forgot you had those. I'm gonna do a bit of a refit on the car this summer. I need to do suspension, bushings, fix a bunch of oil leaks, etc. So I'll probably take you up on that offer. For now, since the outback works again the GL is taking a break until summer vacation starts. I forgot how nice it is to drive a newer car lol.

Ughhhh I've gotta do that. My header is cracked and leaks. I'm probably gonna have to cut a section out and weld in some new pipe.

The engine in the outback.

I don't trust an ej25 going to the grocery store, but that's just me. 850lbs isn't bad, if your driveline is in good condition, you should be fine. If you have an automatic, use 3rd gear going up hills to avoid lugging the engine and trans and overheating it. Also, if it's an auto do a few fluid drain/fills and probably install a transmission cooler.

The biggest issue with towing a trailer close to the weight of the car or heavier is not having trailer brakes. Forget about it being slow, etc. If the trailer is a good portion the weight of the car, you have a good chance of jack knifing in slippery conditions, especially if you're turning when you brake. Also, hook up the damn chains AND make sure they're the right length.... I was helping my sister move out of an apartment. I was towing about 3000lbs of trailer behind my GL of all cars. It went fine for about 200 miles, then about half a mile from my destination at 1am I hit a bump and the tongue on the trailer failed and let go. It set off the balance of everything and I jack knifed the rig off the road.... 4lo saved the day there, but be wicked careful.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/115677-p0500-repair/ The easy option is to hope that is your problem. Pulling the gauge out isn't a big deal. One does not simply replace the VSS.... They are a royal pain in the butt. It has terrible access, and it's plastic threaded into aluminum, with red loctite. Thanks subaru. Check wiring, the gauge and everything else before dealing with a vss replacement. The last one I did was during a rally service, and I ended up breaking it off, melting it with a torch and picking it out in pieces... But I had a half hour time constraint... The one you have pictured is a two wire, 96 will be a three wire, but yes. That's the vss.

It's probably the grey connector. You need to push down on the tab to unlock it. If it's never been off before it's gonna be wicked tight, you might try carefully squeezing it with pliers. You may have to carefully take a flat blade screwdriver and pry the connect off to break it loose. I've had those really not want to come apart before.

How much weight are you thinking about towing? They're rated to tow about 2000 lbs, but if you're pulling that much on the highway with other stuff in the car, it's going to be completely anemic. I've done a bunch of trips pulling between 1000 lbs to 1500 lbs and it goes just fine. I did a trip about 150 miles on the highway towing almost 3000 lbs and it was fine, just a bit hairy braking hard and sloooow. Make sure you load your trailer well to keep appropriate tongue weight, and you should be fine.

Yea, you're right on that. I've had more than one case of severe battery smegma causing electrical issues in my car.

Not the positive terminal, the spade connector for the starter solenoid. The smaller wire. Since it fired right up it's almost certainly either the starter contacts or the inhibitor switch. When I was having the inhibitor switch issue, it would work fine until warmed up after driving for a while, then it wouldn't start.

You want to use the r160 and subaru rear axles with 300hp? hahaha It'll last until the first time you hit the skinny pedal. There are other higher hp cars with IRS I'd go after.

Even with a splash pan under the engine, you're still gonna get water on the exhaust and cats. It doesn't hurt anything when it boils off. These cars have notorious issues with rear wheel bearings failing. It might help to have someone ride in the back seat so they can move around a bit and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from, but that's where I'd look first.

Is it an automatic or a manual? I had an automatic that had an issue with the inhibitor switch. The switch thingy on the side of the transmission that the other end of the shift cable attaches to. They go back and make it not start. Try jumping a piece of wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the solenoid post on the starter. It should crank right up. If the key is in RUN, it'll start. Make damn sure it's in park, set the e-brake, etc etc. Don't run yourself over somehow... If you jump power directly to the solenoid post and the starter just clicks, you have bad contacts in the starter. If it's a manual, try the same thing, it could be an issue with the clutch switch or something. Make REALLY EXTRA sure you're in neutral with the parking brake set.

I use metric because that's a common size for subarus, I have piles of bolts, all metric tools, and all metric taps, etc. But you're right, m8 is a little bit too big.