987687

Are you talking about the timing belt pulley? Don't use a prybar on that one... The only thing you have to pry against is the oil pump, which is likely to crack the housing. If you look at the front of the timing belt sprocket, you will see two holes. Tap them out with an M8x1.25 tap and use a balancer puller to pull it off. Before you attempt to pull it off, use a die grinder/dremel, etc to clean up the crank snout so there's nothing binding it up. Cut off any excess key that's bent over in the path of the pulley, etc

You forgot to add cross-drilled washer fluid reservoir to your mod list

Well I have a bunch of exhaust pipe sitting in my scrap metal pile. So I'll just do that repair and it'll be free... I just want this dumb thing to work for the winter. Going to the junkyard with the GL tomorrow... $40 2.2 shortblock. Headgaskets should come in later this week and I'll be back on the road

The other thing I could do is weld in a piece of flex pipe. It would still let the system flex, but I wouldn't have to deal with stupid doughnut gaskets ever again.... I hate those things. I'm constantly dealing with leaks on my GL because of it.

The weird thing is therest of the exhaust isn't that bad. just that damn flange. Dave, I would do that, but something tells me it's not gonna pass inspection... if I see a good one at the junkyard tomorrow I'll cut it off.

Not 2"? Napa wants WAY too much for a stupid piece of metal, then add on a new doughnut gasket and spring bolts and it's way more than I want to spend. I'm gathering parts for an engine swap and I need to get this pile rolling as cheap as possible. It's been sitting with a dead motor for the better part of a year, and I don't have a lot to spend. If it's not going to hurt anything to just weld a piece of pipe where the gasket goes, that's free....

The doughnut gasket flange ripped off the cat side of the exhaust on my 2000 outback. Can I just bypass it by welding a piece of pipe in? I'm mad at this car, and just want it to work...

Also, one more thought, how is the hub/drum? You'll probably have to replace that because it'll be all scored to hell.

With that higher res pic, it looks like material was added around the seal seating area, leebo is right, with some careful use of a dremel/die grinder you could probably salvage the seat. You can also use JBweld to smooth out the seat and hopefully make the seal, seal. I think if you're patient with that one, you'll be able to fix it and get a lot more life out of it. A hitch ball works, you can also use a hammer as a race driver like this: http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z314/987687/89%20GL/wheel%20bearing/IMG_2832.jpg

The biggest problem with that is you'll probably never get a seal to seat properly. It's just going to leak and ruin the new bearing. The race should come out, though. There should be a lock ring on the other side, remove that and it'll tap out. If it really is fused together, you could free it up with a die grinder, but at this point. It really isn't worth wasting a whole lot of time on that.

According to this, 4.11 is the only option in the US. I dunno about other places, should be on the list.

That would look really badass with a fold down windshield like a jeep CJ.

See the list here http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf Should be the one listed US Impreza EJ22 MY99-01 You can always look at the code on your bellhousing and match it up to the list if you're unsure.

It wouldn't be that bad with PIC. You can just look up the gear ratios, then multiply them by the final drive. Writing code to convert mph into rpm of the wheel isn't bad. Then divide that into your rpm and you should get approx. your gear ratio. so it can just check whether you're within a few percent of each gear ratio.

There are a few old rwd volvos and e30s out there. They always look like they're having a lot of fun!

I think the pins on the back of the tach are actually labeled on the PCB. Either way, there are three wires. v+, ground, and signal. So it's pretty easy to figure out which one you're looking for.

HAHA wow, that's my car! That was an newengland dragway in new hamshire last year.

You might want to bolt the hub to a rim before tack welding. That way you'll be sure you don't get one of them ever so slightly crooked. Even if it looks straight, as soon as you weld the heat is gonna make the stud shift just a bit.

a whole lot of grease isn't really gonna help since it is such a tight fit. I usually just put a thin coat on the surfaces. But yea, sometimes they can be wicked stubborn. I had a really nasty one 600 miles from home in a mall parking lot... Persistence, beer, and swearing. It'll work eventually.

Why don't people approve of that method? This is the hammer method, it's from my rear bearing tutorial: I always get them through with this method far enough to put on the hub and use the nut to pull it the rest of the way through. I think the reason people may frown on that is if you're using the conical washer in the seat, it'll start to grab the axle shaft and tighten up before you have the axle fully seated. To combat this, I have a very large fender washer that goes over the conical area of the hub so I don't need to use that washer. And the axle gets pulled completely through the bearing. The spacer shouldn't be an issue, these bearings are an interference fit, meaning the nominal OD of the shaft is the same as the ID of the bearings. Due to differences in tolerances, sometimes they're more of a pain to install than others. Don't stick anything through the bearing for this reason, even a piece of dental floss may make it impossible to install. And it certainly won't just pull out afterwards. It'll stay in there. As far as I know, it's the transmission end that's different between the turbo/na, the outer end should be the same.

What kind of tires do you have? ABS isn't magic that'll make sucky tires stop you faster in the snow. You still need good tires for driving in the winter.

Heh, if you put the brake and bliker inputs into an XOR gate, you'll get the correct output for the trailer light, it's really pretty simple to build one with a few relays. Or mosfets if you're feeling super fancy that day. But I design stuff, so yea. I think about these things more often than not

Can you elaborate more on that? That sounds really cool.

That's the point of the adapter, because the brake and blinker are the same thing on the trailer, but separate on the car. The adapter takes those two inputs and makes them one output. It's really just some simple AND and XOR gates. About the same as an ea82, parts are harder to find/more expensive. Wouldn't put a turbo on one, though...

xt6 has the er27. 2.7L flat six that's basically an ea82 with half an ea82 tacked on the back to make it 6 cylinders.