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Is that with a real oil gauge, or the stock subaru one? If it's the stock one, it's not really useful for much. Some of them read consistently, some don't... Sounds like yours doesn't. My GL probably has a short somewhere and my oil pressure depends on the humidity... lol

The ONLY factory dual port obd2 engine was the 95 legacy. Making it the most desirable engine for a swap, because it's 100% drop in, no mix-n-match. AT/MT are the same, except MT engines don't usually have EGR. Every car gasoline car in the US 96+ is obd2, so that applies to subarus, too. It's just that the 95 legacy changed a year early. I honestly don't have a good way for you to tell the difference in obd1/obd2. I can tell by the plugs on the cam/crank sensors. The obd1 ones usually have long pigtails, while the obd2 ones are usually red. The obd1 enignes often have a weird cover thing on the coil pack, but those come off/get lost. And ultimately the harness plugs are different. But I dunno how to describe how they're different.... I know the obd2 ones are grey, hopefully someone else has some more obvious clues. By and large, though. All dual port ej22s are obd1 EXCEPT the 95 legacy, and all single ports are obd2. If they try to give you an ej22 with spark plugs that go through the valve cover, they're totally wrong. You want the one with the funky shaped valve cover with the ribs on it. Looks like this: http://www.vortechonline.com/engines/grfx/EJ22.jpg

I turned mine into a fridge magnet

As I said, 95 imprezas can be obd1, 95 legacy as far as I know are all obd2. The yard honestly probably won't know, and they'll just tell you it won't work.

The 90-98 2.2 engines are more or less the same thing. 96+ has single port exhaust headers, not a big deal if you can find the matching header. The impreza changed to obd2 in 96, while the legacy changed in 95. But other than that, you can swap any intake onto any 2.2, and with that, you can swap the matching crank/cam sensors. Crank/cam sensors are actually the same part, so you can interchange them. So you can basically play legos with this. If that motor looks good, slap an obd2 2.2 intake manifold on it, and the right sensors, and you're good to go. A note about non-interference from above, 97+ are interference motors. It really doesn't matter, put a new timing belt and whatnot on there and it's not going to be a problem.

Swapping your ring gear? huh? You don't need to do that. You can bolt the 2.2 directly up to the trans in your outback (you said 96 2.5 which is almost certainly an auto). You're going to have to re-use the flexplate from the 2.5, it'll bolt directly onto the 2.2. Since a 95 impreza is OBD1 you're going to need an obd2 ej22 intake manifold off a 96-98 (or a 95 legacy). The junkyard should probably have one of those you can swap onto the motor. They may even include it if they're good. You'll also have to swap the crank and cam sensors, you can swap them directly off your current engine onto the 2.2. Only other stuff I can think of is do a tuneup on the 2.2 before dropping it in. New plugs and wires. Put new valvecover gaskets on it, replace the rear separator plate with the updated metal one. Then put on a new timing belt, all the idlers, waterpump, tensioner, and crank/cam seals. With all that it'll need nothing for the next 105k miles till the timing belt is due again. Unless it's leaking, most people will tell you not to mess with the rear main crank seal. They're difficult to install correctly, and if done incorrectly will leak. I've never had one leak after changing it, so I dunno, do what you think is best here.

I bet that made a fun noise That's a pretty spectacular fail there.

Just get a generic trailer adapter and wire it into the tail light harness. It's not really too complicated. The one I got was kinda crappy and it uses power from the light harness to run the trailer lights which causes the BRAKE light on the dash to come on when you hit the brakes. Other than that, it works fine. On a subaru I used to have, I made a trailer light controller with 4 or 5 relays. Essentially made an AND gate and an XOR gate, so there's that option, too. Now that I think of it, the wagon may have a place to plug in a trailer wiring harness. My sedan didn't, which is why I had to tap into the wiring harness.

What happens if you get rear ended with that on there It would go right through the gas tank and cue pinto mode

I don't really know a whole lot about the turbo car setups. But to help other people help you, what year/model/engine is in the car? Also, do you have an check engine codes?

The first one is a throttle position sensor (TPS), the second one is the intake air temperature (IAT). It's usually on the air box, but with that intake it's been relocated.

A project like that seriously takes dedication to a nutty idea. It would be so much easier and cheaper to drop a turbo EJ in the car. It's wicked cool.

Timing belts vs chains have nothing to do with power output. No power flows through the belt, it just turns the cams. As Loyale 2.7 Turbo said, the new FB motors use chains as do the EZ30/36 engines.

+1 In the last 4 years besides oil changes I've done..... nothing to the ea81. Because there's nothing to do. A tune up every now and again, and it's good to go.

It's too cluttered and ratty.

So does a turbo. Do a turbo swap.

Trade it for a wrx.

Sounds like they didn't do it properly the first time around...

That's the AC belt tensioner, it has nothing to do with the alternator at all. That belt only goes around the AC pump. The other belt goes around the alt and the PS pump. The whole tensioner assembly should be the same up through 2004.

Did you (or whomever replaced the belt) change all the idlers, waterpump, and tensioners? Either way, if you have a terrible noise coming from the engine you need to start looking somewhere. And that's an easy place to start. That's an auto trans, right? Does it make the noise in neutral/park, or only in gear? The other thing that makes terrible noises is a cracked flexplate. Or it could be a spun rod bearing.... but hopefully it's something easier.

You mean the little thingy mounted on the passenger side strut tower? Just cap the line off (so you don't have a vac leak) and you'll be fine for a trip to the parts store. It'll probably throw a code about something, but otherwise it should be fine.

The other good vehicles to pull radiator fans out of is the ford taurus and volvos. The volvos actually have a nice two speed fan, so you can chose high or low, if you ever wanted to do that. The legacy ECU probably notices there's no continuity through the coil of the relay, or it can sense a voltage going to the fan that shouldn't be there (because it wants the fan off). It shouldn't be anything super tricky, you could probably fool it fairly easily.

First off, do not start the engine again until you find out what it is. 105k miles is the timing belt interval. So if it hasn't been done, I'd start looking there. If the timing idler gears (cogged in particular) or the tensioner piston fail it can make a terrible knock. I had one so bad i thought I was about to put a rod through the block, but it turned out the tensioner was losing pressure and just flopping around.

I never pull the hood for a starter. I just remove the airbox, reach down there and pull the bolts out. You can get to them from the top with a long socket extension. It's kinda sucky, but it's doable. You just need the right length extension so you can swing the socket between the back of the starter and the firewall. Or use a right angle air ratchet, because air tools make everything better

As long as you replace every part when it breaks, it'll run forever... I have a GL that's on it's 3rd or fourth everything...