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Yes, they're the same. That one will work fine.

That's not dangerously high, you didn't hurt anything running 107 for a minute or two. When it heats up, does the heater stop blowing hot air at all? Do you get bubbles in the overflow tank? Also, any idea what thermostat the shop installed. If it wasn't a subaru OEM one, it's junk and probably what's causing your problem.

Dual range swap would be more fun, probably cheaper, and you wouldn't have to get a new boat

I tow a 1800lbs (over 800kg) boat/trailer combo with my GL... Which has an ea81. But I also have a dual range and 4x4 which makes steep ramps a breeze. But I'm an idiot, so you probably shouldn't take my advise

130k miles on the original headgaskets? Sorry to say, it's likely gaskets. If you haven't overheated it too bad, it's worth replacing. My family has a 99 that had the HG's replaced preventatively. It has almost 200k now running perfectly.

Your first thing is to get a subaru thermostat. This picture speaks for itself on the topic. So change that, burp the system properly (search on here how to do it), and see how it goes. The sudden spike still sounds like headgasket, but you may be lucky... When it's overheating, see if the heater works, and see if one radiator hose is significantly hotter than the other (don't burn yourself...) What happens with a bad headgasket, is you get lots and lots of air (exhaust actually) in the system. Since the pump can't pump air, the heater doesn't work because coolant can't flow, the engine overheats, etc.

I have an annoying problem with my 89 GL (with ea81), but the ea82 efi system. Oh, and auto to manual conversion. The idle is random. When I start it cold (it's been below zero F here for a few days...) it'll idle above 2k. Even in the summer it'll do this. But once it's warmed up, it randomly chooses to idle between, say, 500 rpm and 2500. It's REALLY annoying. Sometimes when I shift it'll jump up to 4k, and then come down, sometimes when I stop it'll nearly redline and SLOWLY creep down to 2k, and just sit there. Sometimes it'll drop right down to 700, sometimes it almost stalls.... I'm pretty sure I don't have any vacuum leaks. I don't have EGR or the other emissions crap hooked up. And no other hoses are leaking. Due to the ea81 swap, the IACV is upside down. This car has always done annoying things with the idle, but it seems to be getting worse. I dunno if that has anything to do with it. Other than running OBSCENELY rich during open loop warming up, it seems to run somewhat decently. And yes, timing is set to 20 dbtdc with the green connectors hooked up.

Did you have a subaru OEM thermostat from the dealer installed? If not, that's probably the cause. The aftermarket ones suck. It very may well be headgaskets... If you open the overflow cap NOT THE RADIATOR CAP, do you see bubbles coming out? That's a good sign of headgasket issues. Also, when it overheats, does the heater stop working? If so, it's probably a headgasket. But check to make sure they used a subaru thermostat first.

Yes, you're fine just lining it up again. I use the old timing belt and a pair of vice grips as a pulley holder tool for the camshaft bolts. Worked great before I had air tools, and works fine for torquing them back on, too.

Swapping the rear diff is REALLY easy. If you already have the trans in place, just put the matching rear in and be done.

Yea, I see a diff cover, tow hook, and other parts, and I believe I can make out a roll cage? That must have been a true race car at one point. Sad.

EDIT: grossgary beat me to it. Go swap to a 3.90 rear diff, and it'll be fine.

I've had a broken front spring in every subaru I've owned. Stupid rust.

A friend and I have pulled many ej22s and ej25s in the junkyard by just disconnecting everything, getting some seatbelts and a panhard bar or something out of a truck. Then the two of us just lift the thing out and walk to the gate with it.

Well, then, he needs to eat his wheaties. It's no heavier than an ej22.

I've loaded a few engines into my outback alone. They're not THAT heavy. I usually wrestle it onto a floor jack, and hold it steady while jacking it up. Then kinda just roll it in and tie it down.

Hah, if you were closer I'd trade. My interior is grey, and I have blue shifter stuffs... It seems that they're almost all blue.

Look up the ford f150 fuel pump swap if you're up for a bit of a DIY project. It cost me a grand total of about $35 to change my fuel pump.

This is sort of a crappy picture of the fuel pump. It's a picture of when my rear tube frame broke in half. But if you look on the right side of the picture, you see that black electrical connector (it's actually white when it's not grimy). That's the fuel pump power connector. You can sorta see the back wheel there and the axle out back to orient yourself as to where the pump is.

It's external. It's under the passenger side of the car just forward of the rear wheel well.

It's bad for the transmission and I see no reason you'd get better fuel mileage. Whether the center transfer clutches are engaged or not, all the rear end stuff is still turning. The hubs don't disconnect like a truck, so I don't see the point.

I had a throttle position sensor doing this to me. I found it by checking the resistance of the sensor while opening the throttle. It's just a potentiometer, they can corrode or wear out the same as volume knobs on a radio. It does the same thing to the computer that you hear when you change the volume on a worn out radio. Don't just go throw parts at it, test the parts before you replace them.

You mean the axle won't snap far enough into the rear diff? Sometimes you kinda have to use a bit of force to persuade the axle to snap back into the diff. Don't run it with the axle half out.

Yep, I'm almost certain that's all possible with the SSM.

I've cut them in half and bolted them on before. It has worked for me, just make sure you get it properly centered. Then I filled the gaps with JB weld, and it worked fine... I, too, was worried about a distorted magnetic field. Because instead of being a ring it's now two semi-circles. But it amazingly worked. Figured I had nothing to lose by trying.