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You didn't boost the pressure, you did however jiggle a rusty brake line that was on the verge of breaking. I wouldn't drive a car with a leaky brake line, you're one panic stop away from not having brakes (and having a collision). The brake line that goes over the tank rusting out on 2nd gens is pretty common. The easy way to fix the problem is to flip up the back seat, you might have to pull back sound deadening, I can't remember, too. Under there you'll find the brake lines that go through a grommet in the body. Starting from that point, run a new line around the side of the tank and back to where it connects up with the rubber line, make sure it isn't rubbing on anything and you'll be fine. I guess you could pull the gas tank and get it in the stock location, but that's a silly amount of work. When you're done make sure you clean the top of the gas tank off. There's an access hatch under the back seat to replace the fuel pump, you could remove that to hose the top of the tank off. Brake fluid eats paint and rusts metal, pretty bad combo for the top of a gas tank.

It's too late to do any more math , but you should be fine... Grab your calculator and go hog wild. I'd just run it.

Since I have no idea what car you have, I'll assume for the sake of math that you have 205-55-16" tires, a pretty common subaru size. Subaru specifies 1/4" difference in circumference on most vehicles. Let's say the tire with 9/32 is brand new at the nominal diameter of 24.88 inches. Its circumference is then 24.88*pi=78.16" The tire that's 7/32 is actually 4/32 smaller diameter, and has a circumference of 77.77". The difference in circumference here is 3/8", just a bit over the specified 1/4". Of course if you have an outback or forester, you have a larger tire and thus the difference in tread has a smaller impact on circumference. I'd probably run it and not worry. I'd put it on the front where it wears faster and rotate the tires so that one always stays on the front and the rest rotate around to wear it faster. The decision to run a tire slightly out of spec is on you, though.

Pedal feel shouldn't be mushy, if it is, something is still messed up. I replaced the front pads/rotors/calipers, rear drums/shoes/wheel cylinders. That thing would put you through the windshield. If you stomped on the brakes it would lock all 4 wheels up on dry pavement.

Oh you'd be way past the warranty on those anyway. And yea, I had a 2000 outback, this was the subframe

Oh, you'll also need different brake lines. Prepare to repair rusty brake lines while you're in there, the ones that go through the stupid little mounting hole in the strut tend to rust out and break when you touch them.

Your car is a brighton, and you can get one more level more base model -- manual transmission. I had one and loved the thing. (PS you get really hurt when someone pulls out in front of you and you hit them doing 40...) The easiest way to swap to rear discs is to grab the whole knuckle assembly off a junkyard car. Since you're in maine you'll either have to cut the lateral links or try and get them undone from the subframe end. If you find a car in maine with the long bolt through the bottom of the knuckle that comes out, you're winning pretty hard. When you do the swap into your car, you'll run into the same issue, usually you can get the lateral links unbolted from the subframe end and just swap those as well.

It usually happens to the front struts on those cars. Subaru had a recall on them because the perches were rusting out and springs going into tires... I actually had it happen on my 96, it never had the recall done.

I would highly advise changing the filter, it doesn't take a lot to reduce oil flow through the filter causing other problems. Dropping the pan really isn't a big deal.

I dunno about the swap, I know it's been messed with those, I've seen threads about it. If you do try and put a phase 2 trans in there, avoid 99-02 as they have issues with delayed engagement with eventual failure. It can be fixed if you wanna drop the valve body and replace seals. Your current trans is actually a pretty reliable box, change the fluid and filter and it should last a long time.

Timken is generally a quality part, so yea, that's fine. You could always go to the junkyard and grab a hub/bearing assembly. Remove it carefully with a tool like what Gloyale linked, You can probably rent those at autozone.

You can either buy a wheelbearing that comes with a new hub in it, or press the hub out of the old wheelbearing and press it into the new one. Since it's a unit bearing, it's a fairly simple job of bolting it to the knuckle. I don't think I've ever seen just a hub for sale... Usually you buy a hub/bearing assembly if you want to replace it. Unless for some reason it's damaged, the old hub is fine, go re-use it.

What I fear is that photobucket will fold and ruin zillions of threads since like 2002. I know I started using it around 2003 or 2004, that's a lot of posts I've done that are now missing images.

I'm assuming you're asking because you have a big burly torque wrench that only goes down to 10 ft/lbs. The issue with that is, bigass torque wrenches aren't very accurate at the ends of their range anyway. Either way, nobody besides the team of engineers that designed the engine can say with authority that 10 ft/lbs it too much or not... The only thing anyone else in the world has to go off is what the service manual says, anyone who says otherwise is talking out of their rump roast and you shouldn't trust anything they say. Would it work in the short term? Yea, probably. would it cause an issue in the long term? maybe... Your mileage literally may vary.

I've never had a hard time getting one off that I put on. This car did sit for 2 years without being used, though. Maybe that had something to do with it.

The thing that really chaps my rump roast is when Mr. Strapwrench puts the oil filter on. I recently bought a new (to me) car (sorry not a subaru). As I always do, go and change the fluids first off. I had an absolute hell of a time getting the oil filter off... Who thought it was acceptable to put the stupid thing on that tight?

I don't remember exactly where I got the FSM files. I've had em for a while now. There are either links on this forum under the repair manual section. There a ton of useful links in there. Or just google something like "1993 subaru fsm pdf". Since there's questionable legality in sharing an entire service manual you're supposed to pay for, hosting for these downloads comes and goes. I doubt the place I got it from still exists, etc.

You're usually better off using fluid film or similar product to protect cars, I apply it once before it snows and once in the middle of the winter. The fear with undercoating like bed liner, etc is that you get a pinhole in it. Water gets in the pinhole and silently rusts a huge area out without you ever knowing until it's too late.

The clutch info is spread throughout the clutch section, so I just attached the whole folder. CLUTCH.zip

See the second to last page of the attached PDF. It's for a 96, but same procedure as its the same engine. For some reason it's not allowed to upload a PDF so I put it in a zip file... head_bolt.zip

Yep, they all do that. Third gens also rust out in the door jamb area of the back doors, your baja is based on a third gen so it may have rust starting there. Here's a pic of the (very advanced) rust of my 2000 outback. This is looking into the open back door. I The surface was bubbly, but that's what happened after I kicked it.. I didn't realize there was a serious problem until the rocker ruster.. errr... plastic trim fell off.

Actually 99+ transmissions are phase 2, they started in the last year of the 2nd gen legacy/outback.

Check the valve clearance and adjust them. Exhaust valves tend to get tight over time.

I don't know about the specifics you mentioned, however a CVT is pretty much always going to get better mileage than a manual. It has a much wider gear ratio and can change gear ratios very quickly. This means cruising on the highway the engine can be running a very, very low RPM, but move to a lower gear ratio to make it up an incline. With a manual transmission you can't have a really tall overdrive gear because you'd constantly have to be shifting out of it, lugging the engine, etc. Same with stop-and-go traffic, the CVT can keep the engine at a much lower speed accelerating slowly. With a clutch you continuously have to rev the engine to get it first gear, then rev it out far enough to shift into 2nd without lugging the engine, the CVT has none of these restrictions. I wouldn't be surprised if the engine was tuned differently with a different cam profile. It's driving a somewhat different load, so Subaru probably fine tuned it to match that load. The engine computer and transmission computer can work together for the most efficient driving, whereas a manual needs to be tuned for someone who may not be good at driving a stick.

If you're using google chrome, you can use this nifty extension to spoof your useragent to see photobucket images in threads. Loyale 2.7 Turbo, why don't you change the imgur? I'll admit I don't like its interface as much as photobucket, but it gets the job done!