987687

Don't get a 99-01 transmission, that's the year range they had the issue, after that they fixed a crappy seal or something so it doesn't have the delay issue.

Your location says mass, is that Massachusetts? Because in the US there was never an 03 (legacy/outback) with a turbo unless it was swapped, then no. Don't.

You need a timing light. Hook it to plug wire #1, the front passenger side wire. Timing is basically the same on anything ever. You twist the disty until the light flashes on the mark. If yours is a manual, the timing mark is on the flywheel. Pull off the flywheel inspection cover (rubber thing) on the passenger side bell housing. If it's an automatic I know that the timing mark is on the crank pulley, but beyond that I'm not sure because I don't have an automatic.

If it's an EFI model, the timing needs to be set to 20 DBTDC with the green connectors connected. Important, connect the green connectors while setting timing, more important, disconnect them afterwards. If it's a carb model.... No idea.

No, you can't. Turbo transmissions have a different spline count, and they have pull pressure plates not push pressure plates. You have to use an n/a clutch on an n/a transmission.

Hate to ask something stupid here, but the window lock switch isn't on, is it?

In the last 2 weeks I've replaced the fuel pump. Did the f150 pump conversion. Replaced two fuel lines that were rusted out, replaced some rusted out brake lines. Then today I just finished up with a u-joint replacement in the driveshaft. Interesting process to replace those non-replaceable joints, overall it went pretty well and works awesome now

I've seen a whole bunch of warped thermostat housings. They're crappy plastic. A new seal will stop it for a while, but it'll leak again. If it's at all warped just replace it.

While it's running and leaking, get under there with a rag and wipe the leaking coolant off. Try to find exactly wheer it's coming from before there's coolant all over the place. You can also use ultraviolet dye, but just a flashlight and rag you can probably find it. You cannot replace a waterpump without messing with the timing belt. At that point, may as well just do a full timing service, new tensioner, idlers, etc.

That seems to be the average going price for a temp/pressure unit. That one does look really nice. It's hard to find something that's not too ricey. Bright blue lights and flashing crap all over the place.

I really like that oil/water gauge. What brand is that?

What did you get for suspension and brakes? The next thing you want to get is some sticky tires and a good alignment. You'll be amazingly surprised how much fun it is to drive a car that goes fast around corners. I suggest taking it to some rallyx or autox events, whichever floats your boat. Get some time behind the wheel, maybe even take some driver classes. The best thing you can do is upgrade the driver software, that's you behind the wheel. You can be in the best car in the world, but unless your driver software is upgraded, you'll be beat by a ratty old impreza. I've had tons of fun in cars with an ej22 that handled well, can get in plenty of trouble there. I really suggest you get the car completely sorted and driving well with the current driveline, see how it goes and how much fun it is. Other consideration, turbo engines are more expensive to run. You need high octane gas, everything is higher pressure higher temperature. More parts are going to break and it's going to cost more, if you're already strapped for cash it might not be the best decision to swap right now. Anyway, just some pocket change from me. Take what you will, ignore what you want, but there it is.

I don't want this to come across bad. But it's a lot harder than just putting a turbo engine in your car. You need to pull all the wiring out and merge your wiring harness with a wrx wiring harness, piggy back ECU, aftermarket ECU, etc. You don't just go and swap a turbo motor in one afternoon and call it good. If you have to ask, it's probably not the project for you. If you're bent on the swap, I suggest do some reading online to see what you're getting yourself into. Otherwise, sell what you have now, take that money + the 3500 and buy a wrx. They're going pretty cheap these days.

Just buy a wrx, they come stock with a turbo.

Your alternator is probably fine, you need a new terminal on that wire, though! Probably wasn't torqued down and the nut came loose, causing arcing at that connection. You really have to start with replacing that before anything else, because even at this point a new alternator would be useless without the wire connected to it. Take this as a lesson to stop the car and figure out what's wrong before you set something on fire, melting wires is bad.

Yes.

I'm sure the driver does

Nice! Thanks for the infos, that's an easy fix

So my GL has been cursed with a leaky fuel system.... I replaced a fuel line and changed to the f150 fuel pump. Now I have one more leak to kill (besides the big line from the bottom of the tank....) It's the little fuel regulator thing? I don't know right after the pump. The subaru pump had one right off the pump, the ford one doesn't. Doesn't seem to matter any.... But do I need the one that's inline with the fuel hose? It's weeping fuel, maybe one drip every 15 seconds. Is it safe to bypass this, or should I find a replacement. The car seems to have these everywhere, there are at least 3 under the hood.

Well what you have pictured there is a front cat, and p0420 is the rear cat. I think the code description is something like "cat system below efficiency." Sometimes it's caused by a bad rear cat, often it's caused by a bad rear o2 sensor. Usually it has nothing to do with the front cat, at least, that's not the correct place to start. I'd start by changing out the rear o2 sensor.

What was the code? There are 40 different cat codes.

Leaky axle seal isn't gonna harm anything. Looks like an automatic, make sure your front diff isn't low on oil. Check what the code is, otherwise it's a complete guessing game.

Since it's impossible to get a torque wrench on those without removing the intake manifold, I just get them nice and tight 12mm wrench. I've never had one fall apart doing that yet. Just get them all kinda the same and it'll be fine.

Have you checked out your distributor cap carefully? I was having a similar issue. It turned out my cap had a small crack in it that was letting in moisture and causing spark to get out. It was fairly badly carbon traced. After I threw a new cap on there, all the issue went away.

Mine does the same thing. It never goes above half unless I'm stuck in snow or going really slow under heavy load at full throttle.... Then it'll just creep above half (probably because my electric fan is shot). But when it does, it'll idle at about 1500, soon as the temp comes down, so does the idle. I always just assumed it was to speed up a belt driven fan to move more air across the radiator to cool the engine better.