987687

yea subaru calipers are far superior to any cheapo stuff on rockauto. If you can repair them, definitely do that.

All JDM sedans have rear wipers. From GL all the way up to the current cars.

Yep that's the one

Just to be sure, is the one you're looking for this one? http://www.mttechsuba.com/picture/control%20unit%20illumination%20%2083023aa10%20783023021.jpg?pictureId=2267885&asGalleryImage=true I have a few sitting on my work bench, PM me your address and I'll give you one for the price of shipping.

I'm fairly sure 2nd and 3rd gen ones are the same. If it looks the same and plugs into the harness, it'll work. They almost never fail on their own, so just get one at a junk yard.

Why didn't you just bolt the baja seats in? Did they sit too high?

This is correct.

It's not that hard, just kind of a pain in the butt. Unbolt the exhaust, engine mount nuts, and transmission pitch stopper. Or dog bone, whatever you wanna call it. Jack the engine and trans up by the front diff, now you'll have access to take the oil pan bolts out. The back ones sorta suck to get to, you need a wobbly extension. From there just wiggle the old pan out, clean everything up, and put the new one in.

I had to do that once. The idler was doing the thing where it eats a hole in the timing cover. It was a hot summer day. I had to pull over and cut the belt off... no more AC for the day. It sucked. heh.

It's probably the power steering. As you said, take the belts off one at a time and see when the noise stops. It's safe to start the engine without the belts.

I posted the part number twice in the other thread, but you ask again. 11044AA642

I listed the part number a few posts up. The sti gasket is 0.5mm thick vs 0.75mm. So you get a very slight compression bump and gain probably 1-2hp. The difference is negligible, but it's a much better gasket.

Well I wouldn't pay $500 for it. Maybe $400 at the most. But here's where you have to make the decision. At least around here where subarus are plentiful you can routinely get a 2.2 legacy that needs minor work for under $1000. In running and driving condition. So if you're going to get a car for $400 that needs $400 in parts, you're going to break even with a $700 car that only needs $100 in parts. And in the end well be less work for you. You're in NY, and it snows everywhere in NY, therefor there are probably a lot of subarus everywhere like in ME. Just a word from experience about buying cars. If you have the time to wait a bit longer, you'll find a better deal. I recently picked up a 2000 outback for $800 that ran and drove, but needed headgaskets and a clutch. The important thing with buying cars is to not get attached to a car before you buy it. Otherwise you may overlook a serious issue because you want that car so bad. Not telling you to avoid that 98, just get all the info on it, pictures of the plaques, etc before making a decision. There is always another deal out there. And rust... Check all the normal subaru rusty spots, yours rusted out and it's only three years older, make sure that one isn't on the same track.

If you're on a budget, don't get a 2.5. The 2.2 is better on gas and more reliable. That's for sure. See if you can get the seller to take a picture of the plaque under the hood, the wiring connectors, and the engine bay. The collective knowledge of the forum should be able to tell you what's up with it. How much is he asking for it? I wouldn't pay very much for a car that dosen't have an engine. It's barely worth scrap price, and you have to pay to have it towed an hour home.

Ugr, buying cars without the engine is opening up a can of worms. You don't know what's missing. I'm pretty sure ej221 is phase1, and ej222 is phase2. What does the plaque under the hood on that car say? Also, if it's phase1 it will have the ignitor mounted on the firewall under the pitch stopper, so that's something else that's a giveaway. Tomorrow I can try to remember to take pics of phase1 and phase2 engine wiring plugs. Because that's a great way to tell.

Assuming the 98 has a phase1 ej22, it will work. I've seen some 97's with a phase2, and some 98's with a phase1. I can't find rhyme or reason to it, but that plays a major part. IF it's a phase1, you can put the 2.2 intake on the 1.8 and just bolt it in. You'll have to add a knock sensor to the 1.8, since they don't normally have one. But the bolt hole for it should be there, just clean the crap out and swap the knock sensor over. I'm fairly certain that in 95 the 1.8 is a dual port header, and that 2.2 will definitely be a single port, so you'll have to swap the header as well. Other than that, should just work. Unless the 98 is a phase2, then all bets are off.

The headgasket you want is subaru part number: 11044AA642.

So you're saying the car will make this noise when it's completely stopped? Stopped when in park or in gear? When you're driving, will it do it all the time, or just accelerating or decelerating?

That looks great to me. It's not all sludgy and black. It's the colour oil because hot oil has been getting into the aluminum for the last 20 years. If it was bad, there would be sludge built up around all the bolt holes and crevices. That looks really clean.

Did you get good quality rotors and pads? I've found that the cheapo cheap rotors will warp very easily.

On my car I couldn't get the ball joint out of the knuckle or control arm. I'm sure I could have with more abuse, but I didn't want to damage the joint. I just took the control arm off and brought the knuckle with control arm over to my bench. To put the new bearing in, I used a 3" or so PVC adapter. It perfectly contacts the outer race of the bearing. Now I've made a better tool, it's an old bearing race ground down so it slides in and out of the knuckle without getting stuc. and I welded a piece of metal to the middle of it. So I can tap in the new bearing evenly. It can be done on car, but for your first time doing it, it's going to be a lot easier if you do it on the bench.

In the ad it says they don't use OEM headgaskets. That seems odd to me, using rebuild heads and a brand new short block. Why use aftermarket gaskets... Why would they buy all the components and assemble them, rather than buying them assembled for the same price? Ie. Just buying a new short block. However they put that together, that's still an absolutely ridiculous price.

Well there's vacuum in the intake manifold, so it sucks the exhaust in, the exhaust isn't forced in. And with this setup, it's not sucking hot exhaust. It's sucking air from the intake tubing. There's no sensor that tells the computer if the EGR is working or not, no temp sensor or anything. I honestly have no idea how the computer knows when it's not working right. Maybe because if it's not sucking anything in, it runs a bit rich? dunno. But I do know that running intake air to the egr valve on the IM made it not throw a code when I put a non-egr engine in the car.

Unfortunately I just sold the car, and never took a picture of it. But you know the EGR valve on the intake manifold. I just ran a bit of hose from the inlet of that to the intake boot. I made a T off one of the crankcase breather hoses that goes into the intake. Pretty simple. I took the metal EGR pipe, sawed it off, and brazed a barb fitting onto it so that I could put regular vacuum hose on it.

I did this same swap on my 98. I routed the hose from the EGR valve into the intake manifold after the MAF. In tens of thousands of miles it never threw a CEL for anything.