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I don't understand why everyone gets their panties all in a wad about 97+ engines (yes including the 2.2) being piston/valve interference. If you simply change the timing belt, idlers, and water pump every 100k miles it'll never have an issue. Why would you wait for the belt to break on a non-interference engine anyway? Now you're broken down on the side of the road, need a tow, late to wherever you're going.... I don't get it.

I wouldn't put a 55w halogen in a stock plastic housing with a plastic lens. A stock reverse bulb is what, maybe 10w? You're going to melt the light really, really quickly. Try to find some bright LED thing to stuff in there if you want it to look stock, don't put a halogen in, though.

If you really want, you can use whatever 2.2 block suits your fancy between the 2.5 heads with 2.5 manifolds and stuff. It lowers the compression and you'll end up with a slow painful forester, but it'll work. I did this swap years ago in a 2000 outback and it was awful. You can also directly swap in a phase 2 2.2 into a 99+ forester, if you can find one in good shape... good luck.

Holy old thread you just bumped... Let's clear up some misinformation, though. Don't flat tow an automatic, without the engine running there's no circulation of the ATF and you'll ruin bearings that aren't being lubricated. Don't dolly a 4wd, the rear output stuff will be spinning but not get lubricated (even on a manual), it wasn't designed to work like that.

I put sensen struts in one of my legacys, took it on a spirited test drive down some logging road and blew the seals out. Bought KYBs and did the same thing, they took the abuse just like they're supposed to. Along with gabriel (similar experience), sensen is complete garbage, don't waste your time and money.

Yea, that works if the motor died, doesn't help if the gears or cables stripped out. You can get to the allen key by, iirc, dropping the interior lights.

I had one of the cables on the sunroof of my 98 strip out and do exactly what you're describing. Mine got stuck open, though... I had to grab a whole sunroof assembly from a junkyard and swap it in. It's actually not that hard of a job, getting the assembly in/out of the car is the biggest challenge. If you fold the front seats back as far as they can go, you can get the sunroof assembly out a back door. I did it alone, but helper would make it easier. You have to slide the sunroof open to get to the front drains, you have to drop the headliner to get to the back drains, not much to do about it other than that. Another potential problem is the drain tubes falling off the sunroof assembly.

That's weird, it works for me. Anyway, since I'm disabled from a car crash and bored, I made the pics into an imgur album. You can get them here: http://imgur.com/a/wN6xJ Sorry if i messed up the order... I think i hit all the pics, though.

Sometimes you can right click on the image and select "open in new tab" or whatever your browser calls it. Sometimes photobucket will show you the image, sometimes it's the same stupid WE'RE DAFT DICKHEADS WHO ARE BAD AT BUSINESS (or whatever it says) image. It seems the case for that thread you can right click the image to open in new tab and view them. Cumbersome, yes, but you can still see them.

You should be able to get the bottom starter bolt with a 14mm socket and an extension. Doing it from under the car is easier, but it's entirely possible from the top if you reach under the starter. Since the shop failed to tighten those two bolts, you should probably go and check every other bellhousing bolt and probably anything else they touched. As lmdew said, everything else is just the car being old and wearing out, separate problems.

Even my ea82 sedan had that in the trunk. The spare tire space under the hood would be a perfect place to put a compressor and air tank for air horns See, even the brat smiley has it mounted to the tailgate

My mercedes has an even more annoying "feature"... The two options left of off turn on just the right side, or just the left side parking lights. So you go to turn the lights off and bam, you turned the lights back on again... I guess it's so you can leave lights on just one side when you're parked on a narrow german road without killing the battery all night. Same as the subaru virgin switch, I doubt anyone actually ever used it. Just required by law in the country of origin.

Ahhh another case of someone bumping the "subaru virgin" switch. You'll only do it once

Care to elaborate on, or provide pictures of this feat?

Just want to put a warning out there when messing with things that use a vacuum fluorescent display (VFD), such as those used in this dashboard. They work similarly to a fluorescent tube and have a ballast that produces, often in excess of, 100 volts. It's probably not gonna kill you if you touch the wrong stuff in there, but it'll give you a nasty surprise.

GeneralDisorder has a guide called EA81_SPI_guide.pdf, you might be able to find a link if you search for it. Otherwise, I have a copy on my hard drive I can email it to you if you PM me your email address. The guide is for swapping efi onto an ea81, but it has great information on what all the wiring does and how it works.

The WRX wasn't offered in the US until 2002, so if it's a 98 it isn't likely to be a WRX... You also need a phase 1 transmission for a SVX, and as such a WRX transmission isn't going to work anyway (unless you want to change wiring and stuff...). Phase 1 autos don't have an external spin-on filter, phase 2 autos have a spin on filter on the passenger side. You probably already know this, but make sure to grab the matching rear diff with your new trans. You can also get a legacy GT, outback, or forester auto for 4.44 gears.

There's a thread on here somewhere someone tried to fit a TDI into on. They posted pictures, and it wasn't really possible. I can't find it now, though. I imagine the first time you hit the go pedal with a TDI you'd rip all the gears out of the transmission... ea82 makes what, like 95 ft/lbs of torque? TDI makes somewhere over 200? You'd need a driveline upgrade.

What milling and work do you want? Help in which way? I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish. The ea82 is pretty reliable if you do the basic maintenance, however you really aren't going to squeeze much more power out of it. They do their thing well at the power they were designed to make. That's about it.

There have been some companies who have made custom heads for the ea82, mostly for aircraft use. You may be able to find some if you look hard enough, prepare for the price tag to knock your socks off, though. Otherwise, no. You have to use ea82 heads on the ea82. The multi-port injection heads probably flow slightly better, those aren't super common, though. If you want a daily driver, fix the thing and drive it.

We put a forester XT transmission in my friend's impreza and had the same issue. Your easiest option is to just get the correct axles for the transmission. They all have the same splines on the hub end, so you're fine there.

Oops, I always muddle those two up

An ej22 swap is going to cost you at least the engine and wiring harness, machine work for a flywheel, bellhousing adapter plate, and probably $100 in little miscellaneous stuff the parts store will nickel and dime you on. That's assuming you can strip the wiring harness yourself, fabricate exhaust yourself, etc. If you pay someone to do those tasks, it's going to cost a lot more. You're probably looking at $500 give or take a bit to do a good job unless you just happen to have a lot of the parts laying around. If it's a daily driver, you'd probably be better off just buying a car that already has an ej22 under the hood, if you want that. If you want to have a project, build a wheeler, etc. Sure, go ahead and do it, the car is going to be down for a while. Your best bet is try and figure out what's up with the ea82 and repair it.

Does the engine have rod knock, or is it just a loud lifter tick? If the latter, search for "tick of death", you'll find numerous threads on how to re-seal the oil pump and replace cam tower o-rings to fix the problem. It's actually pretty hard to kill an ea82, likely yours just needs some work and it'll be happy again.

You want to use outback body parts, not legacy body parts. Outbacks have a different front bumper, headlights, and fenders. Legacy body panels will physically fit, but they have different trim, it'll look funny. You can use https://www.copart.com/ or http://row52.com/ to find junkyards that have the parts you're looking for. You can also buy the parts from subaru and have a body shop paint them the correct colour.