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I'm fairly certain that 420 is the cat below efficiency code. That has nothing to do with how the car runs (front sensor), and all to do with emissions BS.

If I have to put in a new one, I'm using a marine grade socket. They're stainless steel and don't fall apart. I get 40% off on Marine parts through work (shows you how much the mark up is...), so it's probably cheaper than a parts store one anyway

I actually looked in it with a flashlight, and part of the positive thing was bent contacting the outer casing. I bent it in, and now it seems happy. We'll see.

So as I was unplugging something from the plug today, the interior light flickered. Plugged it back in, and.... The fuse is blown. So it seems like the socket itself is shorting out. Which I think is the most desirable problem, I can just junk yard another one for a couple bucks.

I do have an FSM. But I think it's just the lighter plug and the power mirrors. Everything else seems to work just fine. I have a manual transmission. So I don't care what an auto would think.

I make lots of money wiring boats. And I can find faults and do really pretty wiring on boats. But car wiring just infuriates me to no end. It's all done so poorly, hidden where it's impossible to access, etc, etc. All my cars have had weird wiring issues with the lighter plug. My GL has horrible voltage drop. My 96 randomly didn't work. My 98 LGT blew the fuse with my GPS plugged in. I didn't know till my GPS said low battery. But the LED on the GPS charger was still on, I just assumed the charger had died. NOPE. Turns out that the plug was somehow getting a bit of power from somewhere else even when the fuse was taken out. I put a new one in and it worked fine... I have no idea. It's now the issue of the new owner

My 2000 outback keeps eating the 20a fuse for the lighter plug/power mirrors. When I bought it, there was a non-stock fuse in there, and it was blown. That tipped me off to the fact there's probably a problem. And there is... Heh. It'll work for a while, then bam, blow the fuse. Sometimes it'll last a few days, sometimes it'll last 20 minutes. Is there a common thing that causes this? Or do I have to just wire in a new fused line from the battery because I hate working on car wiring...

Up here in Maine I always say that a running driving car that passes inspection is always worth at least $1000. That car wouldn't pass inspection because of the rust holes. They likely go through into the trunk behind the trunk carpet. It's not a huge deal to fix, but it's gonna have to be done. With that, if it runs and drives fine. I'd probably spend 950 for that, I don't think it's a half bad deal. It has the 2.2L engine, so you don't really have to worry as much about the head gaskets or bottom end failures. The 2.2 is a pretty robust engine. I'd likely do the timing belt asap, that breaking will definitely ruin your day. Overall, I think you made out alright with it.

I'd go with CV axles as well. My GL was doing this, I was on the highway and only going up hills or when I got on the gas the wheel would wobble and the whole front of the car felt like it was going side to side. 400 miles later a CV overheated BAD, and when I stopped it cooled down, seized up and refused to drive anymore. So I'm going with upset axle.

Or just use anti-seize on the threads. If they did that from the factory, it wouldn't be an issue.

Comedy option. Screw a spark plug into the o2 plug hole. Get a really long plug wire and run it down from the coil pack. Since you'll have lots of unburned fuel from no ignition on one cylinder, it'll blow fireballs.

That really sucks. Keep the engine, too. Because if it ever comes to it, you can put that in your 95. Or sell it for decent money. The seats will bolt in, all EJ seats swap up to something like 08. That doesn't mean they'll sit at the right height or the seatbelt will fit into the clip, though. But they will bolt in. It's easy to swap seats out, so swap them in and see if you like how they sit.

Post a picture of the gasket that came out, the valve cover, and/or the head. Chances are someone on here who works on a lot of those will know which year it is.

I actually used to own a 96 legacy, and I'm pretty sure it did have a 90 deg bend off the header. But I'm not gonna argue. You technically don't need the cat or second o2 sensor. All you really need is the first o2 because that's the one in charge of controlling the mixture. The second one just says if the cat is functioning properly. The only thing that'll happen not having a rear o2 is it'll probably throw P0136 Rear Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction. Which shouldn't really hurt anything.

That really should work on your car. I don't know why it says 98-05. But subaru has been using the same style headers on the EJ since 90 with the first ej22. They all have the flange that points toward the pass side of the car coming right off the header. That's why that has a 90 deg bend, it's supposed to bolt directly to the header. That's also why the ad states it comes with some aftermarket cat and an o2 sensor bung. What are you trying to accomplish here? If you want to make a lot of noise just unbolt the axleback.

Personally I like running covers on an EJ. In the 105k miles they're rated for, you're going to get a lot of dirt and grime on the belt, that will seriously degrade its life. Since the dip stick and fill tube are over the timing belt oil gets spilled on it. I had one coverless EJ once because it was a test project, and I ended up getting lots of oil and coolant on it. The way I get the sprockets off is with an old timing belt and putting a piece of flatstock steel in it to make a handle. Works just as well as a holder tool, and it's free. As everyone else has said, do all the oil seals (both cams and crank) when you take the cam sprockets off. If you're hellbent on not replacing the oil seals, I don't think you actually have to take the passenger side cam gear off with the phase2 engine. I seem to remember that the plastic piece is only on the bottom of the motor, and the outer cover seals to the head on the top.

I wouldn't waste more gear oil on it. You're not going to make it better. If it does it at idle in neutral, push the clutch in. If it stops, it's the input beraing.

If you have it all taken apart, don't half-rump roast it. Weld in a patch and seal it properly.

I've never tried synthetic, so I can't comment if that's better or not for shifting. As you said, it's expensive... The best gear oil for a subaru is the extra-s. But that's expensive, too.

I've never had a subaru that likes to shift before the transmission warms up. Shifting is always a bit sluggish, then as it warms up the shifting improves. Good dino gear oil does help, though.

Here's a nasioc thread with stock 2.5 DOHC and SOHC dyno charts. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1577762

I have the same leak. The water drips out of the bottom of the heater core box thing where the fan is. It turns out that around the bottom of the windshield and all under there is completely rusted to nothing. Fortunately there's also a rust hole in the floor, so the water drains back out again.

It will most likely get to the point where it's annoyingly loud and doesn't shift right before it blows up. My GL's old transmission made horrible screaming and grumbling noises. Even at idle. It finally bothered me to the point where I replaced it. Same with a failing rear diff. I had one that was making horrific noise. It annoyed me to the point of replacing it before it even looked bad inside.

It doesn't actually have the load things. Unless the 99 is vastly different than my 98. In my 98, the window doesn't stop when it's all the way open. It has a slip clutch or something in there. If you hold the button down all the way open, you can hear the motor laboring. It stops half way closed (so you don't close your head in it??), and it stops when it's closed. When it's closed, if the motor keeps turning, it flips the back up. When you flip the back down again, it stops in the closed position. The linkage is pretty tricky in that if you keep running the motor it'll close, then flip up. So there's a breaker in there to stop the motor at closed, and to stop the motor at half way. I found it easiest to run the motor till it stopped in the closed position, and install it with the roof closed. That's an easy index to find and should work pretty well.

I've always wanted to see a dyno of a high comp 2.5. That's pretty good considering a stock sohc 2.5rs puts down about 110 to the wheels. No way you're getting that much power at the N/A wheels without some serious mods.