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Well you have the DOHC engine, it was just mentioned above by GD that you can't run those with a bad head gasket. Combustion leaks into the coolant and causes bad things. It's the SOHC that can run a while with bad gaskets.

I bought my 2000 outback with pretty bad head gaskets, and there was no coolant in the oil. It's almost always a purely external leak. You'd know if there was coolant in the oil, it would be a milky disgusting colour.

Spend the money on good tires instead. At best, these gimmicks will do nothing. It'll probably make the engine run lean and fry pistons or something. For more power, I suggest buying a car that comes with a turbo.

So I finally got around to fixing the fuel rail leak, drove it around a bit, and it's all fine. And the couple I bought it from dropped the title in the mail today!!!! Which is sweet, I'll most likely have it by Monday, which is fine. My town office isn't open on Mondays anyway, so it'll be Tuesday before I can register it regardless.

Does your 96 even have an alarm system? Only 95 and 96 gauge clusters with the 140 mph speedo and white needles are compatible. Other ones won't work right/at all. The cluster has nothing to do with the parking lights, that's weird. But every time I take one of those out I bump the parking light switch on.

It should be on the kick panel under the steering column. Take the panel down (under 4 screws), and it's on the back side. It's square and says illumination control on it.

VIN check says it was first registered in 03/21/1997. But it didn't necessarily get bought as soon as it hit the lot. VIN reports don't give the month of manufacture, at least, not the way I get them... Also, wow. That car went from the east coast of Maine, to BC. And not registered anywhere in between.

I like the 2nd gen legacy lineup for street cars. It's basically an impreza platform that's a bit longer wheelbase. All the wrx suspension bits bolt directly on, so there are tons of options for upgrades there. Personally, I wouldn't bother with a d/r for a street car, I'd just go with the 4.11 LGT transmission (not the turbo pull clutch, just pre 05). They're pretty damn strong and easy to find. d/r could be fun, but how well do they hold up to abuse from over 165hp crank down to pavement.

I did that once, too.... ONCE. I usually put a punch in the middle of the axle. There's a hole drilled there anyway.

I've never had that much of a problem with them. Also, I forgot about sway bar, as my car doesn't have one.

Yea, if they're oem axles, rebuild them. I've had so many issues with the aftermarket ones. I argee with Fairtax4me, don't do it on car. You already have to take the the control arm bolt out to get the DOJ end off the transmission, take one more nut off (axle nut), and just pull the axle out. GL axles literally take 2 fasteners to change out. You'll have a really hard time getting the CV end cleaned out in car, anyway. You don't even have to take the wheel off to change the axle. I put the parking brake on to hold the disc/hub from going anywhere. And then just pull the axle with the wheel attached.

Don't get Kelsey-Hayes calipers. I got a pair, and one of them doesn't fit. The mounting holes on the caliper bracket are too far appart. Same goes for putting the caliper on the old bracket. The warehouse said they're all the same measurement as the one that didn't fit, and have no idea how one actually worked on my car I'd just avoid that brand.

What a fantastic idea! Use the axle nut socket for double duty.

You're confusing the fact that first gen legacy never had an outback varient. So a 2nd gen legacy is a 1st gen outback... So to avoid confusion, blu is a 2nd gen legacy. 90-94 is first gen. Legacy and outback are the same thing, just outback has lift. It's essentially a legacy. SUS is a lifted legacy sedan. It gets really confusing calling an 95-99 outback a 1st gen...

2nd gen legacy is what blu is, 95-99. 00-04 is third gen.

2nd gen sedan seats fold completely flat. 2nd gen SUS and 2nd gen legacy sedan are the same thing, so I can get some pics of my sedan, if you want. No 3rd gen sedan seats fold.

Make sure the lip isn't staked into the groves where the tool would go. I have a pic of that somewhere in the guide.

Get one from the junk yard. It should be the same on any subaru. I mean like anything from 90-04, maybe 05+ Haven't worked on 05+ much, so I dunno there.

I talked to him tonight, I'm gonna send out the paperwork to him tomorrow. He'll get it some point next week, probably take a day or two to send out the title application. Hopefully by the week after next the state will start working on it, and send him the title. Then he can write me a bill of sale and send the paperwork back to me. I'm probably looking at mid december at the earliest, hopefully by christmas to have the car registered. I'm glad I just got new front brakes for the GL, and it's running and driving great. Because I'm gonna be heavily relying on it until this goes through.

Yea, I'm not in a good mood about it. But what can ya do, hopefully being polite and nice to the guy will increase his chances of going through the paperwork asap, and make this an easy fast process. Then I can his <> Haha, not gonna resort to violence, I'm sure he'll follow through and this will turn out right in the end, just sucks.

So the PO had screwed up paperwork. When I tried to register it, turns out the car isn't mine. It doesn't even technically belong to the guy I bought it from. So now I have to drive 2 hours south, deal with him, spend probably $100 in fees and lots of money and time driving, and wait a month for title paperwork to be processed. This is best case scenario. And I'm stuck driving everywhere in my lifted GL until this crap goes through....

Yea, probably. Some idiot worked on this thing last.

Is the cable routed correctly? If you don't route it right, it'll cause lots of friction and kill the thing pretty fast. The clutch in my GL is feather light.

I replaced the wheel bearing today. Not a job I'd want to do again in a hurry. When the guys at FHI were sitting around, I think they decided to make it as difficult as possible to get to the rear caliper bracket bolts. Overall, it wasn't a terrible job, though. I drove it another 10 miles today, it's running and driving great, I'm really happy. Tomorrow or Friday, I'll get it insured and registered. Disclaimer... Before someone rants at me for driving an uninsured vehicle, consider where I live... In the middle of nowhere in Maine, I drive on roads where I'm unlikely to see another car

Well you can't pull bearing caps on a subaru. I dunno about the ea, but on the ej you can get the two middle caps off and look at the rod bearings. But then you're gonna have to disassemble the engine to properly reassemble it.