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Just went through this today... I took the tstat cover off to change out a tstat. I was greeted by a huge mass of red rtv. It turns out the years on the plastic housing were bent down a bit. After cleaning it up and putting the cover back on, the edges were contacting the water pump with a big gap in the middle still. I threw it out and used one from my parts pile, and it doesn't leak. I don't know why the last person couldn't have done that... GD, I agree completely, I can't stand messe people make with RTV. I do use the stuff occasionally, but never really need much more than a very thin coat for it to work fine.

None of this is really ea82 specific, but there are some general things for any JY engine pulls. Usually you can get some coolant out of them. If you turn the radiator upside down, undo a heater core line, etc. There's always more coolant in there than drains. So I'll check that. There's often oil on the dip stick still, it's a good hint to see what color it is. Pull a valve cover, or even pull the oil pan if you really think it's a good candidate. You'll see if it's sludged up, if there are sparkles in the sludge, etc. Mileage is an obvious one to check.. I will only take an engine out of a car that was obviously running before it went there. So things like a broken timing belt. That says it broke, and they junked it. But it was probably running fine prior to that, they just didn't want to deal with it. Even on later interference motors, just grab heads off something else and bolt them on in the yard. Make it look like you're taking one longblock out. Cars that have been crashed are good candidates, you know why it ended up there, a reason besides the engine dying. Whenever I see a really clean car with no apparent issues, I always figure the engine blew up, and that's why it's there. Not a good choice.

Thanks! Ok, so I went out to the garage to look at this beauteous thing, and brought my camera back with me. Fuel rail issue.... So I had the longblock assembled except bolting on the intake. I flipped it over to clean off the mating surface, and saw this :| It really kinda ruined my day for a little while. It meant a 45 minute drive to Norm's, and $25 for another one. Yes, I know there are cheaper routes, but I wanted it done NOW. I cleaned everything up, and put it all together. After everything was in the car, turn the key, and hear a weird noise... The weird noise was fuel spraying out of the fuel rail. At this point, I should mention that when I took one of the fuel rail bolts out, it took the threads with it. So I had to source a longer bolt so it could grab some un-used threads. That's another part of this that wasted my time... It turned out that when I put the fuel rail back together, one of the top o-rings was a bit hard, and crunched out of shape when I put it together. Just friggin' fantastic. It was 4.50, I couldn't make it to napa in time. I figured out I still had a bunch of o-rings from an AC job, one of those worked. YAY. I once again turned on the key with the intention of cranking with no ignition until the oil light went out. The oil light was already out. It took me another 20 minutes to track down the wiring issue. In the end, it fired up right away and runs really smooth. It ran with a really loppy idle before and misfires. That would be due, in part, to the pictured injector. The driver's side cam being a tooth retarded, and a plug missing the electrode... Here's how the car sits now. Just needs the RR wheel bearing done (I have the parts), and the hood bolted one. It should be sorted by the end of tomorrow

I put new head gaskets, clutch, seals, timing belt, etc, etc on my '00 outback. Took it out for the first drive not all screwed up. It's a great car! I'll figure out the wheel bearing tomorrow and finish cutting out rust and welding in the patch. It's almost done

Well, engine is in, it runs and drives!!! I had fuel rail issues that wasted a bunch of money and 4 hours of time, but I got it all sorted out. I'll updated with pictures and stuff later (tomorrow after I clean up the mess in my garage). The car is pretty much sorted, needs a RR wheel bearing and the hood bolted back on. That's about it!

The biggest issue with flipping cars is.... Selling them. Selling cars really sucks. I don't know if it's better on that side of the country, but over here people come, lowball you, swear at you for not accepting half price, etc.

The plug in that back of the radio that hooks to the tape player is really easy to hack. The radio actually has an output, and the amp circuit has an input in that connector. When you don't have a tape player, there's a jumper connecter that hooks it together. So the radio is always going to the amp. I just hacked it with a switch for either radio on an ipod plug. So I have ipod in to the factory radio. It's pretty nifty.

WOW! That's a really great idea. Those things take a total beating. I can adjust the system to use quite a variety of different belt sizes, I'll definitely give it a shot

I need to get a spare belt for my 89 GL. It has an ea81 engine, so it's a totally custom setup. The PS pump sits a bit off plane of everything else. Also, doesn't quite have the necessary belt purchase so it eats belts a bit. It is the prototype mount for all the accessories for an ea81/ea82 swap. I can't remember who makes them.

Yep. Not many other cars use that size wheel.

4x140.

Rock auto has them pretty cheap. $10 or something. IIRC they're around $55 from the dealer.

Didn't someone on here put the TT into a brat? A red one, I believe. It took some modifications to make it fit... but it worked. You could still use the engine, just convert it to single turbo. Basically use the longblock and bolt all USDM manifolds to it with a usdm wrx wiring and computer.

It will be fine, just be smart where you use 4wd. Put the new tires on the back and the old ones on the front for winter. New tires in front and worn on back is recipe for oversteering into a tree when it's slippery.

How come there's no grease in your wheel bearing?

People are usually more likely to make a bargain if they know you have the cash to pay right now. Rather than, yea.... I'll get you the money in a week when my sister's boyfriend's mistress pays me back. When I'm buying a car, I say I have cash in hand. When I'm selling, I say I have title in hand. It's a good motivator.

Well the agreement in my case wasn't made over email. We agreed to meet, that was it. The agreement on a price, and his deposit was oral. Therefor nobody can prove anything other than we met at a certain time and place. There were not witnesses. It worked out for him because he didn't buy from a jerk, but it could have ended really badly for him, which I pointed out when I delivered the car. He agreed that it probably wasn't a good idea.

I was selling a car once, I had someone come look at it, and leave a $200 deposit. He wanted me to deliver it to his house 2 hours away. In 5 days. Which meant I had to keep registration and insurance on it, and use it as a DD for 5 more days, then go drop it off. Also, he wanted to meet at a central location, not my house. I always thought it was odd that he wanted to meet me a ways from my home, and give me $200 down and ask me to deliver it the next weekend. Talk about trusting a stranger!! I could have screwed him on that deal so bad. Nothing was in writing, no legal agreement, he just said he wanted it and handed me $200 cash. NEVER EVER do that, think what would have happened if I sold it to someone else the next day and just ignored his emails.. He'd have absolutely no legal ground to stand on. Don't be an idiot like the guy who bought that car from me. heh.

I've found the best thing to do when buying cars off craigslist or whatever you have there (what is it kijijijiij or something?) is to be as brief as possible. Don't sound really excited, or anything. Just say, I wanna look at your car, when works. Don't make an offer over email. What if you show up and it has rust that wasn't pictured, and more problems than you thought? Suddenly your good deal offer, isn't. You'll want to do more negotiating, but now you've set a price you're willing to pay. So it's hard to ask for him to go lower. The best thing to do is make a time to show up at look at it. After you've inspected the car over, THEN make your offer. I've found when I'm buying/selling cars. It's best to show up with cash in hand, so if you make a deal you can just pay right then and there. Cash makes it easy. Nobody is worried about a check not clearing, etc. Cash is cash, title gets signed over, and the car is yours. I just bought a car, paid cash, and actually let it sit in his driveway for a day before i picked it up. But it was in my name, all I had to do was show up any time and grab the thing. I told him it would be gone by the weekend, and he said whenever. Sorry this deal fell through for you, but take some of these tips into consideration, and it'll go much more smoothly next time. It takes a couple times buying/selling cars to figure out how to play the game. If you're good at it, you're one step ahead of whomever you're doing business with.

That is a fantastic picture. I love it!

Oh man, that really sucks Really sorry to see that. That's so sad Made your link work.

yea, but I don't care on an offroad/rally car. It's gonna get smashed up and dented anyway. On this thing, though. I want it to look nice. I'm doing everything else properly.

That's why I liked fixing the GL. I absolutely didn't care how it came out.

I've seen your writeup, and you do fantastic body work. I wish I could do it as well as you! I've started grinding the rust off, cutting the bad metal out. I've welded in a few patches on the pass side already. Also, I stole all the bulbs out of an old GL cluster I have. The bases and everything are exactly the same. So now it lights up. Also, I ripped the interior apart and vacuumed all the dog hair and crap out of it. It's going to be nice once I get it on the road. Tomorrow I'm buying all the gaskets and taking the heads to the machine shop. So whenever the head gaskets get here, there's be another major update.

Here she is: I payed $900. Has come cosmetic issues, some mechanical ones. - The clutch slips REALLY bad. It was a bit dicey of a 85 mile drive home - Blown head gasket, but not bad enough to overheat or anything - And a bad RR wheel bearing. Which, I found out are unit bearings and extremely easy to replace. So that's good. - Has a bit of rust. Nothing bad, I have pics. Yesterday, I took the engine out, got the heads off, flywheel off, etc. Heads are going to the machine shop to be surfaced. Also, I repaired the window switches. The contacts were just burned. The switches weren't designed for the loads they see. Then I fixed the rear gate handle. It was rusty and stuck when you pulled it. Took the whole mechanism apart. Derusted it, greased it up. And now it works mint. Here are some pics: Driver's side rust: Pass side rust: And this has been poorly fixed already, which is too bad. It just makes more work for me to re-fix it... The PO not only liked to ride the clutch and abuse 3rd gear synchro, but she also liked curbs. Yummy Has a bunch of miles, but it's the smoothest running 2.5 ever. It's quieter than the 150k 2.2 in my other legacy. All the backlight bulbs are burned out besides the one behind the top half of the speedo. Expect an LED diy... The lump is out. It was one of the most stuck bell housings I've ever dealt with on these. Which is odd, considering the engine has been out before and one head gasket has been replaced. At least, that's what it looks like. The flywheel, not as bad as I expected. It smelled like well roasted clutch by the time I made it home. Everyone needs a pic like this, too bad it's blurry. Maybe I'll do a reshoot. LOOK AT THAT CLUTCH DUST Pass side head gasket looks fairly new. The head wasn't stuck at all, and it didn't leave any residue on the block or head: DS head gasket... You get the idea. Head was stuck. It's a mess to clean up. Forgot to get pics yesterday until it got dark. And since my shop is dark and dingy, I couldn't get a good pic with it out. So that's where I'm up to now. Tomorrow I'll bring the heads to the machine shop and order all the gaskets. I already have the clutch stuff and a new oil pan, which had a fierce leak. Also, when I bought the car, it had a weird stumble at idle, and threw a cyl4 misfire code. It seemed to go away cruising at rpms, though. It was really hard to tell what was going on because the clutch was so bad. I just figured it was the cracked looking ignition wires or crappy plugs, and didn't let it bother me. Well... When I tore the engine down, not only did I find bosch platinum plugs, which my 96 really hated, bad wires.. I found. The cam gear on the driver's side was one tooth retarded. Just like the mechanic who installed it. The arrows on the belt were facing the wrong way, too. Pretty much new WP and tensioner, the rest of the idlers are loud. Probably did one HG, wp, and the tensioner. It probably drove more like crap after, still had problems, and they just gave up on the car.