987687

The white car in the background?

Dude, I absolutely love this build and I'm insanely jealous. That's fantastic work you're doing there. I'm always excited when there are updates to this thread.

I really try to avoid using a sledge. Not only will that destroy an alloy rim, wheel bearings don't like that sort of love. Going a few mph and really hammering on the brakes with loose lugs always does it for me.

Don't do that. Put them on finger tight, loosen JUST A TAD. Then go forward and slam the brakes on roll back and slam the brakes on. That should be enough. Driving like a maniac with a loose wheel is a great way to sheer the lug studs off.

Dead blow hammer to the edge of the rim. I've had to absolutely pound the heck out of stuck wheels. Another thing you can do is loosen all the lug nuts finger tight, and back them off JUST A TAD. Drive the car forward or back a few feet and slam on the brakes. That should also loosen it.

Sort of both. When it's loose, it'll jiggle in/out and back and forth just a little bit. Because it's not tightened down to the seat. So as the engine fires it bangs the plug threads against the head threads over and over again. It just sits there and constantly beats the crap out of the aluminum threads until they wear away/weaken to the point it finally just blows past them and the plug comes out. Usually when a plug comes out it takes 90% of the threads with it. It happened to me one time, I took the washer off and treaded the plug back in. I made it about 40 miles like that to get home. Driving really carefully, not loading the engine up much. When I finally got home I really hammered on the gas, and BANG, out came the plug.

Use up what gap? All the sealant won't help when the gasket rots out and starts leaking. It'll just be more mess to clean up when you reseal it next year.

The xt6 is awesome. It's getting so hard to find a nice one these days! And I love the plow, no flaming here, that's an awesome post. Welcome to the forum

I'm really glad I DON'T drive a carbed vehicle. It can get down to -20F or below here in the winter. And carbs suck in that kind of stuff. Also, they don't like funny angles or long sweeping turns, etc. I'd much rather have efi. I could remove the bulb, I suppose. It's easier to just put tape over it, though.

It's wicked annoying at night. It's a very bright red light that annoys me. Enter: ELECTRICAL TAPE! My CEL has been away for 3 years now, it's great.

Yep! I do that, too.

You're not gonna hit 100 in an autocross. If you're hitting 100 it's some closed track. Not a walmart parking lot. Also, you're not gonna hit 100 at a rallyx. And yes, the rally scene is much more fun. I do lots of rally stuff. Between doing rallyx events, and helping out at the pro rallies. Even helping work on cars, it's the most fun you can have. The L model cars are limited to about 112, the GT ones don't have a speed limit. My 96 L with a 5speed wouldn't go over 112. It would just stop accelerating. ECU thing. My 98GT with an automatic will go... Well beyond the end of the 120mph speedo. And yes, of course I did this on a closed track

Now that's pretty awesome, nice work

It would be nice to get a CB for my car as well, may as well add a CB antenna to the ham antenna. Why not just start an antenna farm on the roof of my car

My 98 legacy has 254k on the car and tranny, about 100k less on the engine, and about 200k less on the rear diff. Heh. My 89 GL... Odo says 151k. It doesn't work. And no parts are original. So mileage is a useless measurement there.

If it idles smooth and doesn't have any problems, leave it alone. There's no idle adjust. It's controlled by the iacv, and if it's not idling right, it needs to have the valve cleaned. If it works, don't fix it. The tach on my old 96 read low, I thought it had a problem. But a scangauge actually told me it was idling dead nuts at 700. So it's probably fine.

Glad it was a simple issue. No idea how long it'll keep the code. I always just plug in my reader and reset it when I think I've solved the problem. If you unplug the batter and step on the brake it usually drains the system pretty well.

Redneck facebook as in CB radio?

Did you knock the connector off for the MAF when you opened up the airbox? The other common one, check the hose that goes from the IACV to the intake pipe. That one is also easy to bump when you change the filter.

So if it has a replaced engine and transmission... Mileage isn't really a meaningful number anymore.

:lol::lol:

That's quite the shiny brand new looking y-pipe jason has... Too bad it has the long section sticking off it, unlike the EJ ones which are nice and compact. It's gonna be a pretty big box.

You can eliminate those blocks? Hmm, I'll have to crawl under my car and look at that. I have the car Bratman is talking about swapping an ea81 into. From what I recall from being under there dicking with it, the flange bolts for the blocks are 90deg off the bolts for the header. They couldn't be in the same place, otherwise the header studs would have to be really long, and the blocks would come off with the header.

That's scary *goes out and checks VC bolts*

$190 is a pretty darn good price. It cost me $265 up here in the boonies to have mine replaced to pass inspection. It got broken a week after inspection, guess I'll start saving for next year ...