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Old cars (and I mean like 60's and earlier), used left hand brake adjusters on one side. I've never seen that in a modern car. I've done tons of subaru back brakes and parking brakes. And if one side was left hand thread, it would stick out in my mind as being a pita. So on both sides, turning it in the unthread direction will move the shoes outward.

I also didn't realize the shortblock was that much. But granted, the flywheel weighs a good sum.

They don't come loose because the nut backing off, they come loose because the cone washer is worn out. It will be loose again, and probably ruin the wheel bearing. It's a dealer only item, so I'd order one of those sooner than later. And... Torque wrench? haha. The only thing I use a torque wrench on is heads on the engine, and that type of thing. The torque spec on the axle nut is, according to (i think monstaru): Tighten it until the threads strip, and back it off 1/4 turns.

After my weekend road trip, I'm just a few miles shy of 252,525 miles on my 98. Low mileage 2.2 running mint, and the original auto tranny working like a boss.

I want to see the video of the officer asking why there's an engine in your back seat.

Measuring AC ripple at the battery isn't because a phase failed in the alternator, it's because the diodes are going bad and not doing a good job rectifying the AC to DC. If a given load is drawing the same wattage, as voltage decreases it will actually draw more amps, making the issue worse.

When the engine is running, the battery does no more than smooth the current coming out of the alternator, and absorb sudden draws. Like the radiator fans kicking in, etc. Other than that, the alternator should supply all the power for everything. I'd expect a flicker maybe as the radiator fans kick in. They use a lot of current. But if you have low voltage at idle, you need to start looking at wiring and the alternator.

Here I have pictures of how to do rear wheel bearings. I have both 3 and 5 piece types pictured. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112226

On a legacy? Is there a good way to get the cup over the ball on the wiper motor pivot? Because it took me a good long while of swearing and cursing to get that one on. And I still didn't figure out a good trick.

The same size or bigger than what's there now.

It means that for some reason the battery isn't being charged with enough current to keep up with the load. There is a few reasons that can happen. The easiest thing to point at is the alternator, and while that may be the cause, wiring is another big culprit. Start by taking the positive connection off the alternator and cleaning it really well. Then take the ground off (it's on the top starter bolt), and clean that well. Clean the battery terminals and battery well. Any bad connection in the ground or charging wire will cause a drop and not charge the battery enough. If it's still low, try adding a wire from the alternator case directly to the negative on the battery, see if that solves the problem. Especially if everything has been apart and together a bunch, you might have a bad grounding path from the alternator to the battery. Oh, and also, before any of this there's one more check you need to do. Check the voltage at the positive post on the alternator. See if you're experiencing the same drop there, if you are, it may very well be the alt.

Why go through all that work? The PCV system works perfectly fine when it's working, and it's not hard to fix. It's a very simple system. Start by replacing the PCV valve. Get a can of brake cleaner, take all the PCV hoses off and clean them out. It's probably just clogged up with gunk.

Was it up on the passenger side of the engine bay? That's a vacuum canister thing to hold vacuum for the hvac system in the subaru, it's useless to the operation of the engine. If you let the engine run for a while, even drive it around. Does the smoke clear? After an engine has been sitting around for a while, and especially rebuilt. It's gonna burn oil off that's been sitting in the cylinders.

The ones that are improperly aimed (ie. putting HID's in 25 year old reflectors designed for halogens), are what's blinding you at night.

I don't see why, that has what's called a bi-xenon HID. It's the proper way to do HID lighting. It's a projector designed for a HID bulb. There's a little piece of sheet metal attached to a solenoid between the bulb and the lens. When it's in low beam mode, the shutter is down, cutting off the beam at the focal point. This makes the nice sharp HID cutoff, and doesn't blind oncoming drivers. In high beam mode, the shutter moves up, this allows the projector to throw light all over the road, and works very well. But all that's happening to change from low to high is activating the solenoid and moving the shutter up and down.

You can still flash your high beams when you have HID conversion in standard reflectors. The HID bulbs that go in place of the high/low bulbs have a little motor as part of the assembly that moves the HID bulb forward or back to change the reflection angle, and thus make it high/low. I can't comment on the quality if that mechanism from DDM, as I don't have it. I have JDM projectors in my car, so I just use a fixed H3. I never turn my headlights off, and I've put over 35k miles on mine, they're holding up awesome.

I get my HID stuff from DDM tuning. Probably the same thing as you got from ebay, but from DDM's site you can pick out exactly what you want.

While I understand that's how it works with a quality machine that has low enough settings, that's not what we're talking about here. A basic 110v machine actually doesn't often go low enough to easily weld sheet metal. It doesn't help that flux core wire is quite a bit thicker than solid core with gas, so we have to make due with what we have, and find "hacks" if you will, to make it work.

Please don't leave cars in the woods, that's what gets trails shut down. It's not responsible.

Sure you can get seals out without ruining bearings. You may ruin the seal, but that's fine. You don't put it back in. You leave the bearings with just one seal each. The seals are just rubber coated sheet steel, use some sort of pick and just pull it out.

Someone on here was saying to get sealed bearings, and take one of the seals out. Flush all the grease out of the bearings (as it's too thin), and repack them. Install the bearings such that the remaining seals are on the outside, and create a cavity of grease between the two inside. This is just what I've read someone doing, and it sounds like an awesome plan to me, I'll be doing it if I have to do another front bearing on my car. As for the seals, I've had good luck with the ones from rockauto, napa seals work as well. To drive the bearings in, I use an old bearing race that I've ground down a bit to slip in and out of the knuckle easily. Then I welded a piece of flatstock across it. This way I can use the vice to carefully press the bearings in by only contacting the race. IIRC, a 3" sched. 40 PVC adapter also contacts the bearing race perfectly, and is good for driving it in.

I wouldn't run the fans at all off the stock wiring. I'd use the stock fan wiring to trigger a relay, and run the fans through the relay directly off a fused circuit from the battery. The old wiring might be getting tired and giving a voltage drop at the fan, especially running bigger/more fans than stock. edit: posted before I realized there was a next page, McBrat beat me to it, but we had the same idea. hah, so do that.

This is super amazing! I'd love to see more pictures of it.

Mine wasn't chattering or slipping very bad when I changed the clutch. There were no hot spots or discoloration on the flywheel. So I just sanded it with 40 grit until the whole surface was shiny and scuffed up pretty well. Even if my flywheel was cracked and in horrible shape, it was an emergency, and had to go back together... But it was fine, and it's still working perfectly. One of the smoothest clutches I've driven. And it was just a napa cheapo, too.

No idea if they have the same trunk. I'm still thinking there might be a way to re-bend the bars to give more spring... I'm probably just gonna have to try it.