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Oh, you have an SFJ. The retainer ring isn't really necessary, I've run without them before... If the tires are low, fill 'em up and see what happens, it's an easy check. If the axle doesn't have enough grease, it's definitely upset and wants grease.

I've had bad axles on a GL make a shimmy under load. How did you put it back together? Does it have all the the balls and the retainer ring? Along with a healthy dose of CV axle grease?

Well, if it had zero system pressure, it had to have leaked somewhere... Was it working fine, then all of a sudden lost all pressure and stopped? Or was it more gradual.

Why are you doing AC work? Did the system leak down? If that's the original dryer, and you had the system open. Replace it. They're only about $15, it's a waste of money not to. It will come with the o-rings. Also, you should replace the o-rings on the compressor lines, they go dry and leak out. That's the most common leak. When you're filling the system back up, use oil with dye. That way if there's a leak you can easily track it down. Don't use sealer. Sealer is bad in any system, be in oil, coolant, tranny, or AC system. It's a bandaid to fix a leak. Just fix the leak properly. I just redid the system on my legacy and it's working minty fresh.

Those don't take well to extreme abuse it takes to get really stuck ones out... just be warned. Make sure you wear safety goggles for when it explodes in your face.

NO NO NO NO NO NO. Don't use that crap in your engine. It'll clog everything up. If you want it to stop leaking, actually fix the problem.

Right, in that case you can't select cold unless you reach under the dash. I won't take it off from the bottom just on principle that I hate doing any work under the dash.

That's pretty cool. It'll be interesting to see what mileage you get out of that. LPG has a lower specific energy than gas, so it'll be less than gas. I've always wondered if it would break even. LPG is cheaper here, too. But with the lower specific energy I don't think you can win.

Very first thing I'd try is putting a multimeter on the connecter that goes to the AC clutch. If there's power there, it's a bad connection. If not... It's somewhere inside the magic of the AC system... Also, it's worth checking the system pressure to make sure it's not over or under what it should be. It's protected against that.

well if it's missing the clip that holds the tube to the hvac unit, it won't be able to push the cable in to turn the heat on. But the heat still works...

Yea, when the e-clip falls out while driving, it makes it impossible to turn the heat on. Because turning on the heat means pushing the cable. This will always happen when it's freezing cold out. And you're not at home. Fortunately, it's easy to take out your leatherman, pull the screws out, and make the heat go on. haha.

I was working on a friend's car once that kept breaking clutch forks. The owner before he had it had put the ball in the wrong place for the setup... He'd gotten pissed off at taking the engine out to replace clutch forks and actually made a hole big enough in the bell housing to change the fork out with the engine and tranny mated. And also didn't use cilps on the TOB. .... Needless to say, that car was a mess. Glad you fixed yours the proper way. haha.

That's a pretty awesome setup!

The temp going up and down is still probably a bad thing. There are actually three temp sensors on that car. One in the radiator to tell the fans when to come on, and two by the thermostat. The one with one wire is for the gauge, the one with two wires is for the computer. That's the one that's upsetting the computer and throwing code 33.

First gens are getting hard to find these days, it's weird. It's nice to see people taking car of them still. I'd probably have a first gen wagon by now. But I absolutely loathe auto seat belts with a passion... I'm tall, so when I get out of the car, the little thing comes up and smacks me in the side of the head. Had to swap my GL....

Huh, I used a metric one because I assumed it would be metric, and yes, such things exist. They're close enough in size, and it doesn't need very accurate sized e-clip it doesn't matter. Glad it worked for you in the end!

You're getting the wrong parts because in 85 they changed over to the ea82 in all cars except the brat and the two door hatch. So if you're asking for 87 GL parts chances are you'll get the wrong ones. Even 87 brat is listed as having an ea82 in some stores. Best bet is to ask for 84 parts, you'll have a higher chance of getting the right thing. I have an 89 GL, but with an ea81 swapped in. So I've been through getting the wrong engine parts unless I ask for older engines.

:lol::lol:

Does it have any idling issues? Low idle maybe? I had a gummed up IACV on my GL causing it to fall flat on it's face at WOT. No matter when I went WOT, it would completely stall and die. I have no idea what the IACV has to do with WOT, but cleaning it out made the problem better.

That's a really good idea! I've been through that with a used transmission I bought, it was a real pain. I wish I'd thought of this, because I have a welder. Also, I bet it could be done in car, there's a decent amount of access from the bottom. It would be a bit tight using the slide hammer, but definitely doable. Great tip! Thanks.

That's the first I've heard mention of the yellow plastic one. I have an early 90's ej22 swapped into my LGT. Honestly have no idea what year it is. It seemed pretty sturdy and dry. It's usually the black plastic ones that crack and leak.

The green connector supplies field current as well as the battery voltage to the alternator. With it disconnected, the alternator does no more than spin. It can only create voltage when it has a field current. Now, if the battery sense wire were to come loose, but still have the field wire on the alt. Really bad things would happen. The regulator is stupid, it would assume it needed to go into full charge mode and kill the electrical system. Fortunately both of those wires are in the same connector, so no damage happened.

You just answered your own question. Both forks are messed up. Get a good working one. Also, could it be a pressure plate issue? If the top of the fork is moving as far as it's supposed to, unless the fork is messed up, the bottom will also be moving the correct amount. If the pressure plate won't disengage, the problem may be there. Also, there are two locations for the ball to go in the transmission. One is for cable, the other is for hydro. I dunno if you took it out or whatever, but that's something to keep in mind. Kinda need more back story on this one, what exactly is going on, why is it in this situation?

The updated MLS gaskets are said to finally have fixed the problem. I wouldn't say these are the easiest engines to do head gaskets on, though. The SOHC is fairly straight forward. The DOHC isn't. on the DOHC you have to pull the cams, and them not mix up the shims. And then get it all back together, and timed. A honda/yota/whatever i4 is a lot easier. Just because you can do it in car, and there's only one head to deal with. OH, and yes you can do a subaru head gasket job in car. Don't...

In 99 the only SOHC legacy they made was a 2.2. And it's a phase2 2.2. 99 the impreza/forester line switched to SOHC 2.5, and in 2000, with the third gen legacy, they switched to SOHC 2.5.