987687

Same here, can't find anything in the FSM. Although, a machine shop can probably put the step back in if it's supposed to be there. The ea81/2 flywheel has a big step, and they just grind the friction surface and the bolting surface separately.

Oops! Sorry. I guess I just assumed you had efi because you said ea82

Is the clutch engagement smooth? No chatter, or anything like that? Also, does it currently slip? If it's smooth with no chatter or slip, likely it just need a surface finish and not much material taken off. When I did my GL's clutch I was actually 1200 miles from home on a business trip in someone's back yard... I just sanded the flywheel really well with 80 grit, and it's fine.

For that price, buy my 2nd gen legacy. It has more power, handles better, and it's more reliable. Oh, and you'll also save $1000....

A picture might help, but regardless. An ea82 manifold is all that's going to work. EJ manifold won't come close to fitting, in any dimension. I suppose if you find an ea81 manifold with cali card it could work because it would have an o2 bung... Needle in a haystack find, though. Also, I've never found an unmolested ea82 header in a junk yard. They always cut the cat out, and the cat forms the Y in the header. So they always get cut up and ruined.

That intake looks like a restriction because it's a step down in size. Regardless, what's the point? That's actually a hot air intake because it's taking air from in the engine bay. The stock one actually draws cooler air.

Well a 99DOHC leagcy motor and 99SOHC impreza motor are the same block. Just different pistons and heads. The 99 DOHC motors have the bigger rod bearings and the thrust bearing in the new location.

Hmm, are you sure that 99 is included in that? And what about 96? The 99 DOHC is actually the same block as the SOHC, the only difference is it has different pistons for the sohc heads.

Rear disc. The brake booster is completely dry. Maybe it has a rusty line, I ased where to look. Which ones like to rust out. Care to elaborate?

Maybe I should elaborate on pedal going to the floor. If I pump it up, it gets pretty hard. Then it slowly bleeds down to the floor. Sort of like when you're bleeding brakes and the bleeder is just barely opened. So it's squeezing fluid out somewhere. And yes, of course there is air in the lines now. That's not my current concern. I looked in the wheels hoping it was a leaky caliper, but no dice.

With the motor running (if it'll start again), check the system voltage, and also check for AC ripple. The alt may have randomly decided to die causing electrical problems. It's random coincidences like this that can throw you off sometimes. I may be totally wrong... But it's an easy thing to check/rule out. Also, you did DOHC heads IN CAR?! Are you a masochist? Your poor back...

I have a 99obw on my case. It was ran dry of brake fluid, I filled it up again, and pumped some pressure into the braking system. If I pump up the pedal and hold down on it, it slowly sinks to the floor, I did this probably 15-20 times and the reservoir did drop a little bit. So it's not leaky seals in the MC. But what's annoying me, is I cannot find where it's leaking. There are no drips on the floor, and nothing I can see is wet. So, where do these usually leak, where's the common spot I should look for the leak?

I ruined a spare tire once because it was pretty low on air. But what choice did I have? I put it on anyway, it went flat pretty quick on the highway, so I just drove it like that for probably 20 miles. I'd rather ruin the spare than a full size. Besides, spares are $10 at the junk yard...

You can drive a surprisingly long way on tires with cords showing... The tread can even completely fall off, and they still hold air. I'm sure that'll be fine. Though, it's more susceptible to puncture because there's less tread and it's thinner in that spot. Make sure your spare tire isn't flat. Been there... It's no fun.

The more I read, the more I heard this "DON'T BUY IT" screaming in my head. Those engines like to blow up. Even more so when people abuse them (it has a lift), and modify them (intercooler). But then when I read he was cranking the boost. That's death to those things. No, the computer will not adjust, and no, he's not running on the ragged edge. He's gone over it, run away screaming. Think of not buying it as an investment.

Right, as I said. The final thing you do is 180° on all bolts, 90° at a time. Tighten cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (4) Tighten bolts (A) and ( to 34 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb). (5) Tighten bolts ©, (D), (E) and (F) to 15 N·m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Ensure that the total “re-tightening angle” [in the two previous steps] do not exceed 180°. That's right out of the FSM. Some versions number the bolts by letter, some do by number. It's the exact same thing. I've used these exact directions many times, and never an issue with it. If you only tightened the head bolts to 25 and 11 ft/lbs, and ran the engine. You've ruined the new head gaskets. Start over.

I think what ocei77 was trying to say is that after the final 11 and 25 lbs, there are two more sequences of 90 all the way around. Regardless, that's the way it's supposed to be.

Eventually both manual and auto changed over to torx on the gear oil drain. About the rear drain plugs, I have an old impreza diff sitting around in my garage that has a hex head on the plugs.

Before I knew that there was a way to install them backwards, I installed 3 of mine backwards... The day I read a post about there being a polarity to the washer I went out to my car, and to my horror, they'd been wrong for almost a year. And I didn't have the nut back off. LUCKY! It wasn't even loose... And as far as I can find out, napa does NOT stock these, they're dealer only. Napa does have the cone washer for the Justy, though....

Legacy just turned over a quarter million. FWD light is on because at 249999 on the dot I got a flat tire. So I put the FWD fuse in so I didn't hurt the clutch pack with the tiny spare. Also, this is kind of old now, so I'll make it a thumbnail. But I never posted it in here. So there's this one, too.

OHH, I see what you mean. You want to just pull the cylinder without pulling the whole assembly. I've actually rebuilt/rekeyed these before. It's pretty easy. The part with the box in that picture is actually the nub that pushes the button to connect the signal for the door open beeper. You're gonna have a hard time getting the lock cylinder out without removing the whole assembly from the car. You have to drill a small hole on the sides of the brass pins, and pop them out with the edge of a drill bit, or whatever. Then the cylinder slides out. Just JB weld the pins back in again. I've done this a few times, but never with the rest of the ignition attached to the steering column. With it in that orientation, it would be hard to get the ball bearing/spring back in for the steering wheel lock.

Ohhhh. I remember that thread...

What happened to that poor thing?! It looks a little crashed...

You're trying to get the whole cylinder out? You need to drill a hole in the edge of one of the dead eye bolts, and use a small punch to turn them out. Alternately, if you have a small dremel, you can get in there and cut a slot and just use a screwdriver to wind them out.

Getting it back in is easy, just use pliers to shove it straight in. Sometimes they can get twisted in there, so it's hard to get them out. Because they're trying to pull the cable with them. Sometimes I've ended up twisting it all up getting it out, but again, replacements are easy to find at a hardware store.