987687

There should be a few adjustments. Yea, it's confusing.

Just rent a tranny jack, you'll want it for the 4eat. Except for being stupid heavy, it's a pretty easy swap, and the tranny jack would make it a breeze. I have almost 250k on my 4eat, it still shifts nice and the awd works perfect. You can adjust the bands to adjust out the messed up 2-3 shift, it says how to do it in the FSM. It's a PITA, but worth it. Sorta like adjusting valves. You can also get rid of some of the 1-2 clunk. When I first got the car, it shifted weird and the AWD was bindy, and a couple fluid changes cleared it right up.

The rear discs made a HUGE difference when I got my GL. But I think the drums were screwed up anyway... The pedal went right to the floor when I got it. hah.

Right, but then whatever is clogging is now inside the air box. Which means it's going to just clog again.

There are a bunch of countries like that. And I can see where they're coming from. And yea, it's hard getting a modified vehicle through inspection sometimes. But he looked at my lift blocks, and said they look like something that could come from the factory. I don't half-rump roast mechanical stuff. Especially something like, say, if my wheels could fall off.

It's in perfect mechanical condition. All wheel bearings, axles, brakes, suspension, etc. I've fixed it all up and it's in tip top shape. I even welded up all the rust on the body so it's not full of rust and holes anymore. But it's a lifted GL, it's a wheeler, a rally car. It's dented, scratched, and has lots of character. A little bit of water in the light or some dents on the door dosen't make it a bad car. There are a lot of junky cars around here, but not many really unsafe cars. MOST inspection places won't pass a car if it has bad ball joints or something. Most places are pretty good about knowing where what cars rust and what to look for. There are some places that will pass anything if you're not a ************************ and are polite. My GL won't pass at most places, not because it's unsafe, just because it's unusual and the shop doesn't want to get in trouble. I go to the backwoods places, talk to the owner, don't act like a wongleflute, and I get my inspection sticker.

Blah, I don't care. It still works, for some reason. I actually drained it out to pass inspection a while back. And now that I think of it. I should just drill a hole in the bottom of the light. That way it will just drain out. The bulb base is missing the tab things, so it won't seal. And I just don't care. It runs, it drives, it passed safety inspection.

I have that hose, and I sorta suspect it's clogged up. It drips with the AC running too, I discovered today while getting it charged and running right. But I have no idea how I can actually get the box apart to clear the blockage. I pretty much hate doing anything that involves laying under the dash.

My GL is running low on blinker fluid.

I had a brand new windshield installed professionally last month. I'll be pretty upset if that leaks. I cleaned out the sunroof drains last year when I had to change the sunroof assy. out. Regardless, this is leaking from the heater box, and I don't think the sunroof drain drains into the heater box. I honestly don't know. I just ran compressed air through the drains from the top. I guess a buildup of leaves could do it, I'll pull the plastic cover thing off and see if I can see anything down there.

I use my cig lighter to burn the end of rope so it doesn't fray. But it never stays in, I have to hold it in. The pop out mechanism is broken

So it's rained really super hard for a couple days. In which time I've been driving my GL. My 98 legacy has been sitting. Today I got in it and there was quite a puddle in the passenger side floor mat, fortunately my rubber winter mats held all the water in. I dumped it out. Then I turned on the fan for the defrost. It made a sound like someone drowning, and dumped at least a quart of water out of the dash. After that got done, everything worked fine. Where is the water leaking in though? I can't see anywhere obvious water is getting in. And I don't remember it doing this before my windshield was replaced, but it hasn't rained this hard since last year.

If you remove the rear section of driveshaft, make sure you mark which way it bolted up. It's balanced as one piece, if you put it back together wrong it might vibrate. Yea, if the duty C failed on the dyno that would be interesting. Very unlikely, but don't stand infront of the car...

I've thought about doing this before, honestly, I see no reasons why not. With the center clutches disengaged the driveshaft just freewheels. I've put it in FWD to test drifting in fwd cars with left foot braking... You better believe I had a lot of wheelspin. Kinda like running a dyno. And my AWD still works just fine and dandy. 249k miles and counting.

So put a big sticker somewhere obvious that says what you did. Or just don't take your car to a shop to have it worked on.

Start spraying the ball joint pinch bolts with PB blaster NOW. You're gonna need some big pry-bars and hammers to get the job done, but if you don't break the pinch bolts, it's fairly easy.

The main problem with the mixture of propane, butane, etc. Is that if you get a leak in the system, the gases will escape at different rates. Meaning you can't just top the system up. It will be an imbalance of gases. Having the system leak and explode is kind of a silly worry. How often have you seen an AC system leak fast enough for that to be possible? It's usually a tiny little leak that lets all the refrigerant out over the course of months. That's not enough to cause an explosion. Also, as has been mentioned, propane isn't really that flammable, just a small leak will not catch on fire. If you're worried about propane leaks, and a fire starting with a mere 20-30 oz of fluid in the system, I advise not putting 15 gallons of gas in your gas tank. And yes, the fuel lines DO run though the entire length of the inside of the car.

What kinds of vehicles do those come in? I WANT ONE!!!

Now you've gone and scared the crap out of me. hah. I take my car on lots of road trips, this would suck. Is it likely to be the same design on my 98 leg? I'll have to see the pump assy to make sense of what's going on. Does any o-ring do off the parts store shelf, or are there different o-rings rated for gas that don't break down?

After the compressor is off for a minute or two, the high and low pressure should be almost the same. If there's a considerable difference that's BAD. That means one of the tubes or check valves is clogged up. It's a recipe for bad day. I can't say exactly what the pressures should be, as I'm not used to working with r12 systems, but the fundamental idea is the same as r134 systems. And since it deserves repeating, make damn sure the valves are closed when you hook the gauges up to the system.

The clutch disc is the cheapest part of the equation. Flywheel, pp, and TOB are expensive parts. Why not throw a quality turbo disc in there at the same time. Sure an NA one will work in a pinch, but if you're going to do it, do it right.

Yes, basically if the tape deck isn't there, there's a termination plug in the back. With some probing around, the radio has analogue out, and the amp has analogue in. Directly via the plug!! So if it's a radio only setup, the radio out and amp in are directly tied together in that plug terminator. I was upset it was so easy to hack. But basically I just added a switch to go between aux in and radio. I should take some pics of it. But I did really horrible messy wiring... My job is wiring stuff, and making wiring look pretty, when I got home to work on my car I say eff it, if it works it's good...

Yea, you're gonna have to pull up the carpet. If I was in this situation. I'd measure the distance from the rocker to the bolt on the bottom of the car. Then do the same measurement on the inside. Then measure from, say the B pillar to the bolt on the bottom of the car. And do the same inside. That way you're not gonna drill a hole and miss, and have an extra hole in your floor... Measure lots of times, only cut one hole in your car

I've been thinking about one of those, and I was going to get one. But then I decided to hack the stock unit for aux in, which was right wicked easy. So I'm just sticking with that.

Are these gonna be available in disc brake rears as well?