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Everything posted by 987687
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80's subaru gl wagon clutch stuck
987687 replied to mikaleda's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
hahah, that's awesome! -
80's subaru gl wagon clutch stuck
987687 replied to mikaleda's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
^^ he said the clutch cable is free, why would he go buy one?? There are a couple things it could be. One is the throw out bearing could be rusted stuck to the snout. If you take the cable off the clutch fork, can you move the fork around? If you get a light you should be able to see in the hole if you can move the TOB back and forth on the shaft. Otherwise the pressure plate could somehow be rusted up, but that's less likely. I can't really see how that would happen. -
The defrost lines are fine. I've put power directly to it, and it works fine. I'll have to check the relay, I had no idea where it was, hopefully mine is in the same place as JPX's. JPX: The defrost in your car works different from mine. Yours is a toggle, when the button is pushed in, yours is always on. Mine is a momentary button, so it's on a 10min timer, then it shuts off.
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I'll wire 'em up for you! Give me a holler this weekend.
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Is this an ea82? ea82 won't start with the pedal to the floor, that's fuel cut. For clearing a flooded engine. If it doesn't like WOT off idle it's probably a sticky IAC valve. If you unplug the IAC valve, it won't go WOT at all, it'll totally fall on it's face. So when it gets sticky and slow, it'll get studdery when you go WOT. If this isn't an efi ea82, ignore my post...
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It has less to do with the size, and more to do with the price of R&D, manufacturing, etc.
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The topic is like It's such a small market, and the people building up old subarus don't have that kind of cash.
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I think it's saw dust in a MANUAL transmission to stop gear and bearing noise. In an automatic transmission it would VERY quickly clog up the filter, clog all oil passages, and totally make the thing stop working. Anyway, I don't think sawdust is a great friction modifier PS. oil in your oil is always a good thing haha.
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Been there, dealt with that. I used a grinder, though. I bought the tranny from someone with both axles still attached, with the shafts cut in half with a torch. There was a broken off punch stuck in both roll pins. One side had a punch going through each side of the roll pin. So then they gave up and torched the axles in half
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high/low vs pushbutton 4wd differential question
987687 replied to kabarakh's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
oh mine are stuck on both ends too. I took the axle nut off, and left the stub shafts on the axles. -
high/low vs pushbutton 4wd differential question
987687 replied to kabarakh's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have the roll pins out of my axles, but the problem is they get stuck onto the stubs in the diff. Mine WILL NOT come out. PERIOD. THE END. When I did my wheel bearings I took the trailing arms off and left the axles in the diff. Annoying. -
high/low vs pushbutton 4wd differential question
987687 replied to kabarakh's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
As long as neither are turbos, they should both be 3.90 ratios. I don't know anything about the automatics. -
Can we send you a solidworks file, then have you make it? That would be sweet.
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Rear defrost on my 98 Legacy GT limited stopped working almost a year ago. It's been pissing me off for a while now. It's one of the ones with a momentary button and a timer. Why it needs all that complicated crap is beyond me. But anyway, it won't work. I changed the button with one I know works. And nothing. I don't hear the relay under the dash clicking, the light on the button doesn't light up. If I apply power directly to the rear defrost it actually works. So it's some of the stupid electronics in the middle. What do I need to do to fix it? Oh, and before someone asks. No fuses are blown.