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I think it's completely correct that the Mayan calendar was designed to run up to the end of the world. It did! The world (from a Mayan perspective) has ended. Since it's a dead civilization, it's the end of the world for them. Done, gone. But what I don't understand, is why are people in the 21st century reading more into the whole thing than there is? Get over it, move on.

I never bother cleaning used engines and transmissions. it's just gonna get dirty again... heh. I think I win grimiest transmission ever. (it had quite a few issues... leaking oil was one of them)

I have a zero offset ratcheting box end wrench I use for the TQ bolts. Makes it a breeze. You can also get to them from the bottom. But you have to jack the engine up a bit for that.

There's no reason to ever use a pickle fork for anything. It just ruins the boot. If you're replacing it, whatever. But there are tools that make separating ball joints easier and less damaging.

That's a good idea. I might have to give that a try, see if I can make it work on a subaru. The issue here is getting it out of the knuckle, but same method should apply. I still can't get the driver's side ball joint out of my gl. Either the cortrol arm or the knuckle. I had both loose so it could have popped out of either. I have a 4' crow bar jammed in there jumping on it... They can stick wicked tight.

Ball joint will probably be the worst of the lot, if you live in a salty roads in the winter area... They're gonna be stuck like all hell in the knuckles. Start spraying PB blaster on that ball joint pinch bolt for a week. That's something you REALLY do NOT want to break off.

It's been about 2 years since I did it on my 96. But I don't remember having to pull the sway bar. I think with the rack at full lock I could get to it with a pipe wrench. It was rather tight, but possible.

Autozone mis-diagnosed something and threw parts around, at the owners expense? NO WAY.... Did they even CHECK the battery? Sounds like alternator if it's low at idle, but fine voltage at higher RPMs. It could be a tired alternator, or it could be tired wiring. No way to tell without some volt meter testing.

Now that you've mentioned this... DO NOT lift a 4eat by the pan UNLESS you have a system to spread the weight over the entire thing. If you dent the pan, there's very little clearance in the transmission. It can squish wires for the duty C, etc.

The less rotating mass the better. Every bit counts. But I have no idea where you'd find the tranny side of the shaft, the rest of the flanges could be fabricated fairly easily.

I have no idea how much either way. All I'm saying is the 4eat feels around 50lbs heavier. I can lift a 5mt into the back of an outback with a little bit of swearing and grumbling.

Considerably more. Although I've never weighed either, I've handled them both. The 4eat feels about 50lbs heavier.

It really comes down to what you want to do. But if I was doing a tranny swap this afternoon, I'd leave the engine in the car. Since loading a tranny in from the top is a real back breaking PITA (in my opinion), I won't even go there. So that means I'm loading it in from the bottom. It might save a bit of time pulling the engine too, but not as much time as it would waste. Disconnecting everything, draining the cooling system, pulling rad, dealing with tranny cooler lines, BLAAAH. Do not want. It's the same thing with head gaskets... some people swear by doing it in car, some people swear at it. Do whatever works best...

I used all mechanical force, hoists, and jacks. The most physical part of the whole project was sliding the old tranny out from under the car, and sliding the new one in.

The turbo and exhaust going back is more than enough back pressure. The turbo is a pretty big restriction. Intercooler is probably a good thing to do. It will help the engine run cooler AND give you more power.

5speed in a brat? Did you swap it? There are adjusting nuts on the cable where it goes through the clutch fork. You should have about 1/4" play at the fork, and have a return spring. If the clutch isn't disengaging the cable is probably getting old and stretching, tighten it up a bit.

The last one I did. I shoved the transmission under the car into the tranny well, then I hooked the cane up to the pitch stop mount on the bell housing of the tranny. Lifted it up, then used a floor jack to lift the back of the tranny up. Using this method you can control exactly where the tranny goes, what angle it comes at the engine, and all without fear that it's going to fall off the jack. Because it's being lifted from the highest point of the bell housing. I changed a GL transmission like this, come-along from the ceiling and spare tire jack under the tail. It only took about 2.5 hours. I'm fairly certain in the impreza you'll have room to get the front of the tranny lifted with a crane. This way makes it way easy. You can do it engine in car. And the auto means you don't have to deal with getting splines matched up.

On the highway from the moment I put my foot to the floor to the moment the transmission shifts into 3rd is about 1/4 second. Actually, probably less... I can live with that. It feels instant.

That's not a bad price. Depending on what you have for junk yards around you, that's probably what you'd end up paying for a 95 manual shaft.

That's quite the beast! I love it!

The gearing in the 4eat pisses me off. I think my 2.2 auto is slow... I don't know how you can deal with a 3at. If it would just blow up I would have an excuse to use that pile of 5speed parts in my garage... 65 whp is pretty decent for a GL. Although mine has the ea81, so it's even more anemic than an ea82.

you didn't say what kind of car you have. But it needs to be from that style of car with a manual transmission. 1st (90-94) and 2nd (95-99) gen legacy shafts are a different length. Also, I'm sure you know you need to make sure your rear end is the right ratio for the 5speed transmission.

The heads on mine rounded off and I had to sawzall. This is where a nice torch would have made quick word of heating them red hot. They'd have come right out. Sadly, that's not in most people's tool collection.

The haynes is decent, I reference it from time to time if I need a picture of how something is gonna look, or another opinion on how to fix something. For really important things though like head torque, I wouldn't use it. It does have some stuff wrong.

The inner tie rod is actually really easy to replace. I've done a few of them with no special tools. Unstake the washer, there are two different designs here. It's obvious once you have the boot off. Then I just use a big pipe wrench to break it loose. It's a good idea to replace the boot while you have it apart. It's not that expensive, and it's a no fun thing to replace after you have it all aligned. If there's any play at all in the outer end, it's a good time to replace that as well. The trick to getting that loose is taking the castle nut off, and beating really hard on the 1" thick metal of the knuckle right where it goes in. Since I'm bad at describing things, here's a picture (not subaru). Hit where that nub is sticking out. http://www.autoclinix.com/Mercury/TieRods2.jpg