987687

I've always been partial to exedy, however the clutch in my legacy was going bad so I got the LUK (because I could do overnight shipping on amazon prime....). The clutch didn't chatter so I just buffed the flywheel and slapped the LUK clutch kit on there. 15,000 miles so far and it works really well, engages smoothly, no chattering or anything like that. I've been happy. Of course installing it correctly, cleaning everything with brake clean and lubing all movement surfaces helps with smoothness.

I had an outback with a massive crank seal leak I kinda ignored for a few months, just topping up the oil every hundred miles... When I finally got around to changing the seal, the timing belt was all gummy and sticky. Probably didn't have much longer before it broke.

Oh also, when you put it back together make sure the shaft of the axle is clean, the seat for the cone washer is clean and oil free (if it isn't, the hub will come loose ruining the splines). The flat washer isn't actually flat, it's very slightly cupped. Put the concave side toward the cone washer, convex side toward the axle nut. EDITED FOR CORRECTNESS. thanks robm (something something, senior year finals week braindead something)

On the fronts, pull the parking brake on good and tight first. That way the rotors will stay in place when you remove the hubs. Makes it a bit easier. On the rears I just let the rotors droop a bit (if you have rear discs, that is). If you have drums, you might have to loosen the adjustment nut. And I will repeat DO NOT HAMMER ON THE END OF THE AXLE (unless it's with a brass drift and you're replacing something that requires removal of the axle)

You shouldn't add studs to a tire after you've driven on it. Dirt and grit gets into the stud holes, putting studs in them cause abrasion between the mushroom end of the stud and the tire. These can wear through very quickly. They do make a removable traction device for driving in the winter, they're commonly known as tire chains... I wouldn't disable or otherwise tamper with the ABS, if you hit someone and cause injury it's possible the insurance company will do an investigation to try and deny a claim. Finding a tampered with ABS system will almost certainly land you with the entire bill. ABS can't make your car magically stop faster with bald tires, put good tires on and it'll be fine.

That makes absolutely no sense... if someone cut you off point blank, it's their fault. No reason to get a gopro as a dashcam, you can spend MUCH less and get something purpose built that's pretty decent.

If you're doing 60mph and someone pulls out in front of you, it's kinda their fault if you have to slam on the brakes and can't stop in time... I guess it's hard to prove that's what happened unless you had a dashcam, which is why I won't drive without one anymore. It's all that saved me from a lawsuit in a crash.

Is their insurance going to pay for the damages?

Figure out what the CEL is on for (take it to an autozone or something, they'll read the code for free). Also check your fuses. Pending any burned out fuses and the code causing the problem, it's anyone's guess.

Mine is a station wagon, so it has the hydraulic auto-leveling suspension. It's actually not quite as expensive to fix as you might expect... It's a surprisingly simple system.

My mercedes has vacuum central locks, vacuum engine shut off, vacuum shift control in the transmission.... and a diesel engine. So it's all run off a vacuum pump. When I bought the car none of this worked. It was a fun adventure to fix it. However, the vacuum locks are pretty cool. You lock the driver side then there's a second or two delay. Then all the door locks silently suck down. No clicks or whirs of motors or solenoids, pretty cool. That car doesn't let you lock doors if they're open, kinda skirts around the whole issue, kinda annoying if the power locks break..

Yea, see, the problem is that many of my friends are millennials and will never understand the extremely difficult concept of manual door locks... Seeing as I barely have the motivation to fix broken brakes and important stuff on this soul suckingly boring car, I'm probably not gonna go ripping the door locks apart to modify them. I've never taken the door lock assembly out of a subaru, but I have on many other cars. It's always terrible.

All my other cars, including my GL and 84 mercedes have power locks. There's some disconnect when it comes to the brighton...

I don't even know how to title this one. I have a 98 legacy with manual locks, when the front doors are locked, then closed, they unlock. Nice touch to keep from locking your keys in the car. On the driver side I know to hold up on the door handle as I close the door, however my passengers (including my GF...) don't understand how to close the damn thing. This results in me sitting in the car until they close the door so I can lock it. REALLY annoying, is there a way i can disable this "feature"?

No such thing exists, and if it does, it's a hoax. Just enjoy your car.

Probably because they haven't... There's a special process to bore subaru cylinders; they need to bolt a thick plate to the deck because the bore is actually slightly oval when the head isn't bolted on. The torque plate, or whatever they call it, pulls the cylinders into the proper shape, otherwise they'll end up oval after being bored. It's not worth rebuilding a 2.5 with that many miles, if the bottom end is fine, replace the valves and just drive it. Or swap in a lower mileage ej22.

Also, I don't know if this applies to 99. But from 2000 to like 2002 or so, manual and automatic engines have different reluctor setups on the cam and crank pulleys. I have no idea why they did this, but it has bitten me before.

Well, I don't know your original engine had. So without being able to do this simple comparison... I dunno. I guess ask someone who has a 99 2.2 CA model? I never return my cores until I have everything working. Sometimes you need your original sensors, manifolds, etc.

The smaller one is the timing belt pulley on the crank. The bigger one is the passenger side cam gear. You can reach your finger through the slots of the cam gear and feel how many lobes it has. Compare this to your original engine. If there's a difference, swap them over.

You need to check the reluctor lobes on the cam and crank gear between your current engine and your original engine. If you have spark and injection out of time with codes, this is likely your issue. In this picture you can see a different number of lobes on the cam and crank gears

Does it have spark? Is it pulsing the injectors? You need to check to make sure the cam and crank gears on the replacement engine have the same number of reluctor lobes as the original engine. I've done swaps before without checking this, it causes fuel and ignition at the wrong time and it obviously won't run. Also, did you use your original intake manifold? I don't know what the exact differences are in the CA emissions cars, but there are probably differences on the intake. Using the original one is a safe bet to make it work there.

Ask why it needs a water pump... The only way subaru waterpumps really fail is they leak externally. If he says it needs a new waterpump because it overheats, it's BS. It has headgasket issues or something.

Get a quality balljoint that's already assembled with the boot. MOOG is a good brand. Recently, I've bought a couple subaru balljoints that have a grease fitting on the top. This totally confuses me because it's physically impossible to grease it once it's installed (nor is there room for the grease fitting....) So just be careful to check the part when you buy it to make sure it isn't one of those.

Sounds like one of the mechanics is a 5 year-old and sat in the seat making car noises while spinning the wheel 400 times in one direction. If it wasn't broke before you took it in, they broke it and owe you a new clockspring. This also means the airbag isn't operational, they should do it ASAP.

You should be running around 3k RPM at 70, as mentioned, it has a 4.44 final drive. If you want to use a gear ratio calculator, these are the transmission gear ratios: 1st: 3.027 - 2nd:1.619 - 3rd:1.000 - 4th:0.694 - R:2.272 Remember if the torque converter isn't locked the RPM will be about 10% higher.