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I don't quite follow. So on the CV end, you move it to an extreme and pull a ball, then it just comes apart. That I get, but you have take the axle shaft out of the race first? How? Pipe trick The whole putting a pipe in ball cage part just makes me cringe... haha. It seems like a very un-exact science though, and a good way to break things.

I'd like to see a vid of getting the CV end apart. You know, without the dumb "pipe trick" that makes holes in your concrete garage floor, destroys the race, and loses the bearings...

Subaru head gaskets won't show up on a compression test, unless they're REALLY bad. I bought a car that had low compression for head gaskets, if you opened the rad cap with the motor running it was blowing exhaust as fast out of there as from the tailpipe

Instead of derailing the thread any longer with this silly chatter, let's get some content on the new page. Here's my practical and awesome sedan.

Any sedan isn't as practical as a wagon, for example. I can't put a sheet of plywood in my sedan. It's harder to load engines and transmissions into it when I go nuts at the junk yard... But isn't it redundant saying one sedan is more impractical than the rest? Unless you have a good reason, it's just a sedan.

If you're buying fasteners in bulk, it's cheaper to buy them online rather than one at a time at rape price.

So I'm thinking of how I could design an repeater circuit so it wouldn't fry my computer running two injectors at once. I think I might give this a try when I do my timing belt, because, why not! Heh. I'm not going to hurt anything. You can make offset keys if you want to change cam timing.

I think you'd want the cam 360 off, that way both sides would be doing the same thing. The computer doesn't care what the pass side cam is doing, because the pickup is on the driver's side cam. So as long as the driver's side cam and crank were in the same relation, the pass cam doesn't matter. Hell, in an ea82 it'll run with the pass side timing belt off, not well.. but it'll stumble along. And the computer doesn't know why it's not running right because it has no way of monitoring that cam. Only thing I wonder about, I read somewhere, not sure if it's true. That the opposing cylinders are slightly off, ie. they don't hit TDC at the same time. Something about balance maybe? I'm sure I read something about that at one point, but again, I have no source to back that up. Dunno if anyone else has heard that, or I read mis-information. Maybe when I do the timing belt on my legacy I'll put one side 360 off and see what happens... It's non-interference, what bad could happen.....

Hmm, I used to have a 96 2.2 and a 99 2.5DOHC both 5speed. And the 2.2 definitely took off faster. Seemed to have a lot more low end. Add the 2.2 had 3.9 gears, 4.11 in the 2.5.

Since 1&2 are at tdc together, and 3&4 are at tdc together, that's how it would probably have to fire. Which they plugs fire like that anyway with wasted spark. Then couldn't you just set the pass side cam 360° off so they were both in intake and exhaust at the same time? I'm not sure about if you could tie the injectors together (obviously with transistors not to overload the ones in the computer, or upgrade the ones in the computer). I don't know if that would really upset the computer, or if it wouldn't care because it would be thinking the injectors were firing when it wanted. I guess you'd have to put a dummy load in the injector leads you weren't using. EDIT: I mean 360° off, not 180 on the pass side cam.

Looks like a DOHC to me, judging by the plug wires and timing cover.. Might be converted to electric power steering as I don't see a pump being belt driven.

the DOHC has less low end power than a 2.2 does, IMO. But up in the high RPMs it really screams.

Outback with the same transmission as my car is going to get better gas mileage. The engine has enough power to easily turn the bigger tires, so it's dropping your highway cruising speed. Therefor better gas mileage. I'm sure if I swapped a 4.11 auto in, it would do better. But at that point why not just use that spare 5speed in the back of my garage

I like the evo, but it violates my "I'm never owning a car with a sideways engine" rule. Because sideways engines suck to work on.

That's an extremely odd way of doing an alt tensioner. That poor bolt looks like it's going to get bent and snap off.

^^^ Yea, the picture and discretion both are 5 lug.

With obd2, the scantool should be able to tell what temp the computer is seeing from the sensor.

Those aren't brush guards, they look like Australian roo bars

Are you sure that's the problem? If it's obd2, plug in a scantool and see what the temp sensor is doing.

You can still use the stock jack after a lift, just make the jack bigger. An outback jack just has a bigger thing on the top for the extra lift.

Since the joint isn't designed to be moved smoothly by hand, that's not a trait it needs to have. It will do that once it's warmed up. I've been through A LOT of napa axles, and the ones that move smoothly by hand have too much play and often click out of the box.

You're not going to gain anything from a shiny chrome intake. The stock subaru one is already cold air intake, and designed pretty well.

The main reason they have that mode is for when you're running a spare tire. The spare tire has a much smaller diameter and will damage the awd system in an automatic. So you use the fuse to lock it in fwd (disconnect the rear transfer clutch) so it doesn't fry the transfer clutches. But it's also good for diagnostics.

The automatic transmission won't work properly without a speedo cable. It upsets the computer, and it won't shift. It's like having the governor disconnected on an old tranny. I'm pretty sure a manual cable is longer because it has to go half way back on the transmission, not just to the front diff.

The parking brake assy. not fully releasing will cause a sticking caliper, too. I had to add return springs to mine, now it works perfectly. And no, my cables were not at fault here.