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Ya, probably not worth changing it then. As long as it doesn't sound like using an egg beater in a pot of rocks (bad bearings), the tranny is gonna be fine.

Since it's a 90 it has a speedo cable. The speedo cable will go to the gauge cluster where it's converted into a digital signal for the computers. The speedo cable should come off the front diff (above the front axle area on the pass side) and go into the firewall, into the gauge. Since the speedo isn't working, start with fixing the speedo cable problem.

If it got hot enough to fade the brakes, good chance you also warped the rotors and glazed the pads. I'd be replacing those and bleeding the burned brake fluid out. There's about a 99% chance that bottom bolt is rusted and won't want to come out. Get your sawzall ready.

Given my abuse of the ea81, it's not interference... The ea82 isn't, I don't see why the ea81 would be. But dunno, hopefully someone chimes in on the matter.

Sounds like if anything your clutch is a bit worn. But the 2nd gear thing is in the tranny. You might get some extra life by changing the oil. It's a 27 year old car, it's getting worn out. And it was never a race car to start with, just shift it carefully.

Yea, pliers on the release tab, big flat blade screwdriver to push the connector off the sensor. Just be careful not to squash the connector with the pliers.

The ea81 is interference? Really? If it is, valve float could mate pistons and valves.

Only 12gal? Is it a justy? GLs have a 15.9 (60 liter) tank.

Yea, IIRC it's the kind you push the tab of the back and the locking piece comes up. You might have to get a screwdriver in there to pry the connector off the sensor. If you remove the IACV it adds quite a bit of clearance to get at it. That's a really crappy one to access with the intake manifold on Another trick is to spray PB blaster at it. Connectors can get gritted up and don't want to come loose sometimes. Sometimes you have to push the connector in first, then pust the tab down because the locking bit gets bound up.

Nice looking rig!!

Swapping the motor isn't too much different than ea. Everything is a bit more cramped, but that's about it. That's a ridiculous price for a car that has a bad engine and transmission. I got my mint 98 LGT for $400. All it needed was an engine and a strut, and it was good to go.

Thanks! That car is a beauty And I spy an RX in the background!

Sounds like a rod escaped to me. By transfer case being replaced, sounds like something was done with the clutches/duty C. Possibly run for a long time with the FWD fuse. Unless it's a really good price, I probably wouldn't take it. Or buy it with the intention of swapping out the driveline. It sounds like a mess.

I drove into Moore Head city every weekend to buy food, and there was an ethanol free station I always filled up at

I dunno if this is the right way, but this is how I check if a clutch isn't disengaging. Since reverse isn't synchronized, it'll grind if everything isn't stopped. So I stop the car, push in the clutch, and shift to first gear. This will make sure nothing in the tranny is spinning. Then, while keeping my foot to the floor on the clutch very very slowly shift it into reverse. If you get a grinding, that means the tranny is spinning, meaning the clutch is sticking a little bit. If that's the case, you might need to adjust the cable. Where in the throw of the pedal does the clutch bite? Is it right as soon as you let the pedal off the floor, more toward the middle, or at the end of the throw? There should be about 1/4" of play at the clutch fork.

If you pull the drain plugs out and shine a light in the bottom one, you should be able to see through the top one if it's open or LSD. I'm tempted to start looking for a fozzy over a wagon for a new DD. The more I see awesome fozzies, the more they're growing on me.

You say newbern in your profile, north carolina? Winter gas sucks, I drove my 89GL back from that area to maine in december. My gas mileage in maine was a lot less. Crappy gas up here. I'm taking my leagcy back down there this summer, so I'll be able to see difference in gas quality.

I don't know what kind of car you have. But shifting into 2nd on my GL you have to take it easy. It's an old tranny with a lot of miles on it, be gentle. Mine is a lot better once it's been driven for a few miles and the oil has circulated/warmed up. The transmission I replaced was so shot you had to double clutch 2nd gear up an down because it would just grind if you didn't. That box was a total pile by the time I got rid of it.

Those are great little hondas. With some minor engine mods and suspension mods (performance, not rice), they handle like a little gocart around corners. Sad to see one get tweaked. They're not really worth throwing on the frame machine

When I was in South Africa car theft was a big problem. Also carjacking at red lights in traffic. People installed propane cylinders in the trunk and rigged them to the door handles. If you pulled the door handle while the door was locked, you'd literally have this in your face This was quite some time ago, but I'm not making this ************ up... Probably overkill for your situation though, it may be frowned upon in this country. But hey, now you know not to try carjacking in South Africa if you should ever find yourself there.

I've done the rivet thing before. Just make sure you seal up the seam between the two metals really well. Put silicone or something. I did the rivet thing and it rusted out and fell off in two years. So I just up and welded some sheet metal. IMO the only proper way of doing it. Regardless what you do though, two most important things are: Cut out all the rust completely. Rust is like cancer. If you repair over rust it WILL come back. It needs to be cut out. And seal it up once you're done. If the repair isn't sealed up nicely water will get in and rust it out again. Especially if it's bondo, that stuff is evil and holds water.

Ran a VIN check on that, mileage does check out. Looks like it lived in southern NY, then went to Philly in auction. One owner. MAN that car looks nice. The clock in my GL works too, I heard all these clock problems but mine is fine. heh.

My local dealers will mail me stuff. Worth a call.

Get an alarm system with RFID tag. I'm sure such a thing exists, and if it doesn't it should. If you don't have the tag on your keyring, the alarm will go off if you open the door. If it doesn't exist I'm going into my man cave, turning on the green lights, and making one exist...