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The wrx has a 1.1:1 center diff. So it's a 3.90 front/3.54 rear.

How big tires do you have? I have 27" tires on my 89gl with the ea81. It does 75 on the highway quite happily. Maybe your engine just needs a tune up.

Obviously you need to use the shorter SOHC timing belt. The electronics just work. All the electronics in the head is one cam sensor. Use the 2.2 intake manifold, it's plug and play swappable with the 2.5. Car couldn't care less.

Say you're in a junk yard or whatever looking for a set of wheels. What's the proper way to measure backspacing? Is it the distance from the inside of the mounting flange to the inner lip of the wheel?

Use the 2.5 head gaskets and bolt 'em on.

Pretty sure you have to have the flywheel re-stepped to ea82 specifications (Brain is too tired to remember the correct number ATM), then use ea82 everything else.

You can use ea82 flywheel and clutch disk, ea82 TOB. EA82 everything. That's how mine is, I have the reverse swap. Ea81 into an ea82 car with dual range. The only problem here is the timing marks on the flywheel are wrong. But just make new ones by finding TDC. Not really a big deal.

Mine is black because it leaks so much oil... hah. Tomorrow I'll go investigate for an actual wire colour. If you have a gauge, the sender should be a big cylinder screwed into the pump with a tab off it for the connector.

If you want to re-drill the hubs, punch two opposite studs out, and bolt up a wheel. Two will match the wheel pattern. Then just drill the rest.

The oil sending unit is on the oil pump at the front of the engine. The oil filter screws onto the pump, facing the engine to your left there should be a wire coming off. That's the sending unit. Clutch is easy to change out. You can either pull the engine or drop the tranny. No way is better, my person preference is pulling the engine because I hate working under the car.

USPS? It'll be there next month :-p

No, actually. Air is thinner the high up you go. Take an N/A engine. At lea level there's at atmospheric pressure of 1bar, or about 14.7 PSI. Go up to 10,000 feet and there's only around 10 PSI of pressure. That means less manifold pressure, that means less power output. Turbocharged airplane engines have a unit called something like automatic density controller to keep the same manifold pressure at all altitudes. So at lea level maybe the turbo is putting out 5lbs of boost, at 10,000 feet the turbo has to put out about 10lbs of boost to produce the same power. So yes, it would help greatly taking off from a high altitude airport. But the point of the turbo is constant engine output at all altitudes. The turbo does, in fact do work when flying.

Not really behind the wheel....hah.

If you want to replace it all, you're looking for a loaded caliper, or something like that. It's a loaded something. When I worked at a shop we'd have to do it all the time for various cars for whatever reason. If you get the right one it'll come with bracket, caliper, pads, and the slide spring things for the pads. Whatever the hell they're called. The ones we got usually didn't come with a banjo bolt, but did come with copper washers. Another thing I've seen cause badly dragging brakes is rubber hose. They can break down inside and create a sort of check valve. So the brake fluid can't get back to the reservoir. I don't think I've ever seen it on a subaru though.

Nobody ever said anything about adding a turbo to the ej22. The ej22T is the closed deck legacy SS engine.

Are the pads worn evenly? The brakes on that car have a bad reputation of the slide pins rusting up and sticking. Symptoms of this will be pads worn crooked, or the pad on one side of the rotor will have significant more wear than the other. Reason I ask is I've seen sticking slide pins cause the brakes to overheat because the pads aren't puling away from the rotor enough.

My ea81 isn't very loud without a muffler. If you want an STi engine just for the sound... oh come on. If you want more power swap in an EJ non-turbo. You'll be happy.

Ah, I didn't see anything on the bearings. I never doubted that it can be better to rebuild the ea81. It has plenty of power for putting around. Although I'd probably throw a torque cam on it to bump the power a bit. That's what I want to do with my car. I like the sheer simplicity of the ea81.

Wow, that's looking really nice! I have a few questions/curiosities. Is it easy to get the cam gear off to pull the cam without splitting the case? Also, did you not use any assembly lube on the crank or cam bearings

I wouldn't try to fill the holes with welding wire or rod anyway, I'd weld a patch in. But why? If you weld enough to get good penetration you're going to warp the rim. If you just tack it in place really quick, it's merely cosmetic. I guess if that floats your boat, go for it. Or just get hubcaps.

It's not that there's a problem with running a turbo, per se, it's the cost you're not going to like. Expect upward of $8000 to properly do a turbo swap. And my number is probably low.

Unless you want to spend LOTS AND LOTS of money, just get an ej22. Or even an ej25 if you want a bit more. I dunno what kind of car you have, but a GL transmission wouldn't be very happy with an STi motor, so you'll need a turbo 5speed to hold the power, the price goes up and up the more you think about driveline and wiring.

Sometimes you've gotta be careful with rockauto. It's great, parts are nice and cheap, etc. But if I'm not sure I'll cross reference part numbers with other websites to make sure I'm getting the right part. Never had an issue doing that. They did send me a bad ea82 wheel bearing once, though.

A pop top like that?! That would be awesomely badass on a legacy wagon. DO IT!

The SC one would probably work better for a car anyway, probably has better torque curve. With that gigantic turbo it would have AWFUL lag. Probably doesn't make power until around 4000. Which is perfect for an airplane, spool is irrelevant. You run it up and leave it there until you land. But on the street it would be like driving a honda