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When I was working at a shop I had someone wanting to mount normal car tires on trailer rims. This was sort of a shop that you go to last resort because your car is screwed anyway... I wouldn't mount the tires, he said he'd been to 5 other shops that wouldn't mount them either. Why? Because not only is it a bad idea, I didn't want to be responsible if something bad happened because I mounted the wrong kind of tires on the wrong rim.

Mine didn't completely snap on me, but it came close. Scary close. I'm honestly not sure what was actually still holding that together...

What does the timing sprocket have to do with the balancer? The keyway won't come out unless you take the sprocket off, the sprocket probably won't come off with the belt in place because the belt will run up against the reluctor lobes and hold it in.

Do you mean the end of the rear tube frame rutsed off where the flat trailing arm bolts on? That happened to me, just replace the tube frame. It's actually not really that big a deal.

When they wobble the place the balancer meets up to the crank gear gets all rounded and domed. Also, if the keyway is buggered up, it might not be seating all the way. Get a new one and make sure it seats up nice and flush to the timing gear. You don't actually need the keyway for the balancer, just torque it down good and tight.

Got my GL registered. $84.10. It shouldn't be that expensive for a 23yo car...

Never said there was anything wrong with 6000k, just that it was too blue for my liking. Although, I think technically 5500k has more light output. Buy a very small, probably mostly negligible amount...

I did 6000k in my Legacy, and they're too blue. Next time I'd do 5500 or maybe 5000.

8000k? Seriously? That's going to be dimmer than stock. Hopeless light output and dumbly purple, it'll look kind of like this little guy here Got my GL alive today. All fixed up and on the road

I thought the torque spec was supposed to be somewhere around 170. Regardless what it is, I make it good and tighter than that so they don't fall off.

I have one of those pocket meters, I've had it since about 2001 and it still works... Probably because I don't use it very much. When I was in Canada I got the canadian tire brand multimeter, it's not great but hasn't had any problems since 2004. Only had to change the battery once. But then I also have a fluke 87V meter. And it's so awesome I never use anything else anymore...

^ Ya, but it's precious power you won't wast using the starter. I drove my 96 5speed quite a long way with a broken alternator. Probably 40 or 50 miles. I just turned everything off.

That's awesome! haha.

Thanks.

Thanks, we posted at the same time. How much for the part?

It did that to me once after I hadn't driven it for a while. I turned off the headlights and it started right up. Thought maybe it was a low battery or something. It's a brand new batt. though. I just ignored it since it worked. But I guess that was the start of my issues. Thanks. I'll have to go out and look at it, then your description will make a lot more sense once I'm looking at what you're talking about. I need to sell this car before it has more problems I don't want to fix... Speaking of which, how much for the part? I don't want to sell it with issues. Karma would bite me and it wouldn't start when the guy comes to look at it.

Is the inhibitor switch like the ones with two wires coming off on a manual tranny? Like for reverse, NSS, 4wd, low range? Or is it that whole block with tons of wires coming out of it where the shift cable goes?

I went out this morning, turned the key, and the ************ing thing started right up. GRRR. I wish it would just stay broken so I can diagnose the issue. I can't stand intermittent problems. I'd feel terrible if I loan it to someone and it leaves them stranded.

That's what I did, and mine weren't even broken...

What do you mean play with the switch? If you turn the headlight switch to have the headlights on, and that blows the fuse. I doubt it's the switch, it sounds like a short somewhere along the line to the lights. Possibly even at the lights, have you checked the bulb connectors?

The ones I pulled out by brute force were destroyed. The ones I heated out were never ruined. And I've done quite a lot of those. Took a soft wire brush to clean up the pin and used a brush thing that goes into the bore (whatever those are called). Put it back together with grease, and it's fine. Basically it's fairly tight clearance, so it can't really get a lot of rust in there. When you heat it that breaks the rust bonds completely and it comes apart. Since these were cars on the road, they started losing braking power, grinding when pads wore down, etc. So they weren't left to rust for a super long time. I assume if you took one that's been sitting in a field for 10 years it wouldn't come apart so gracefully. I did it to my own car about three years ago. I had the whole thing apart last week doing major rust repair and rebuild some stuff. The caliper pins were still nice and free. No sigs of contamination.

The only used engine I've had a problem with was an ej22 with over 300k that I got for $50. It lasted about 20k miles then decided it was tired with life. It had an aneurism and hemorrhaged all of it's oil, then seized up good and solid.

Seeing this posted like it's an anomaly cracks me up. When I was working in a garage up here in Manie 95% of brake jobs on 90's, and even a lot of early 2000's subarus had at least one frozen slide on each side. Take the caliper off and heat around where the pin goes in really fast with an oxy/ace torch. If you heat it slowly with a propane one you'll get too much heat in the piston/seal area and you'll ruin it. You need a lot of localized heat really fast. Be warned, most of the time the pin comes flying out like a rocket. So aim it at something that's not going to get hurt. If you melt the rubber seal or boot on the slide pin, replace it. If you try to wrench the pin out with vicegrips you're going to ruin the pin, the bore, and mar everything up. Been there, done that. It sucks. But you said it move a little bit... maybe you'll get penatrant in there to free it. The ones I had to deal with were frozen, solid.

I only hear a single relay click when I turn the key between run and start, I was assuming that was the relay to turn off radio, lighter plug, etc. Is the inhibitor switch the thing the shifter cable attaches to? What wires do I check with a meter?

Hot wired my legacy 300 miles from home to get it started. Stupid car. I need to stick to the good old EA cars.