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I know it might be NSS. But I'm looking for input from someone who knows where it is on this transmission, has dealt with this before, etc. I know buggerall about automatics and really don't care. The car is probably going anyway. Not dealing with swapping, I'll get one that already has a 5speed.

So my 98 Legacy automatic has decided it doesn't want to crank anymore. It decided this in a parking garage 300 miles away from home. The starter is fine because the way I got it started was jumping a bit of wire directly from the battery to the spade terminal on the starter. There aren't any blown fuses. And if I have the key turned while wiggling the shifter in P or N it doesn't start. Even held the key on start while shifting between P and N. No dice. So I hotwired it, drove home, and parked it. I'm gonna replace the ignition switch tomorrow (easy and I have a spare) What could it be?!

I just use hella 500's. We were comparing them to my 500's and they actually put out slightly less light. But they use so little power you could throw TONS of them on your car I figure in about 3 years the price will be waaay down.

I've installed those on boats. Then we took a pair and drove around with them at night to see how they do on the road. Those things are absolutely amazing! Too bad they're so damn expensive though

When I had a 300+k 2.2 in my 98 I had it well PAST the 120mph mark on the speedometer. Of course, on a closed track in Mexico. It'll take a while to get there.

I was gonna buy a rust free one and swap all the parts over. But no such a thing exists on the east coast... There was one, and he never got back to my email. So I just rebuilt mine..

I can pretty much say with confidence that I've saved my GL from the grave. Rebuild the whole driver's side rocker, half the pass side. Redid the front of the back wheel wells on both sides. Both rear quarter panels. A week of hard work, and it's alive again

Why can't you just swap the LSD chunk into a different EJ diff?

That's not entirely true, actually. Well cared for they do pretty well. Mine made it just fine till 240k miles when someone overheated it to the point of seizure... twice. 240k on any engine is pretty good. And it would have kept going.

Or you could swap the other way and get an ea81.No timing belts, and reliable as hell. Mine runs awesome and gets well over 30mpg on the highway.

I had a driveshaft go bad. It was kind of a clunk clunk clunk sound. And went with speed. If I put it in 4wd cruising down the road the noise would go away for a few seconds till the driveline started to bind. Then it would make the noise but louder.

If you haven't had it apart before, you'd probably be better off pulling the inner control arm bolt. The first time I had to get my ball joints apart took hours of beating, pounding, and abuse. Those suckers get stuck!

Axles are wicked easy. If everything isn't stuck it's less than an hour job.

Mechanically it's a decently easy swap. You just have to fabricate an exhaust. Wiring is a bit more complicated. Numbchux on here will sell a full labeled harness ready to run standalone. You just hook it up to your fuel pump, gauges, etc. If I was doing an ej swap, I'd be tempted to do an ej18 over the 2.2. If you want a 2.2 in the future you just swap it in. Direct swap. But the ej18 has 25hp more than the stock engine, much more reliable, and you'll still get great gas mileage.

Subarus have a good reputation for a very good reason. They're a good car. The turbo blowing at 90k isn't because subaru made a bad car, it's because some idiot didn't change the oil every 3k miles with synthetic like you're supposed to with a turbo. You can take two identical cars. Maintain one meticulously, and abuse the other like most people. The maintained one will last 10x as long. Whatever brand you choose. You're in Vermont (according to your profile). It snows, they use salt and crap on the road. Salt rusts cars. If you don't wash your car regularly (remember what I said about maintenance) it'll rust out. Plain and simple. It's not subaru's fault people don't take care of their car. You'd think if someone bought something for $20k+ they'd want to take care of it, but cars are apparently an acception...

I didn't see any point in recreating the pinch weld. It doesn't surve any purpose, really. I mean, stock form there's the body that bends down, the rocker that bends down, and the bit of sheet metal in the middle that sandwiches. Obviously that makes it nice and stiff so you can jack the car there and it supports the whole weight of the car. And it's a nice rigid construction. But I always end up bending that damn thing over on the side and whatnot. So here I welded a bit of metal from the rocker right to the bottom of the floorpan. In the middle I have 3/16" flat stock ever few inches going up and down to make it as rigid as stock. Without cutting it completely apart I couldn't reconstruct it like stock. It should do just fine.

Cut rust out: Welded new metal in: The whole bottom of the rocker pretty much had to be cut out. Then had to fabricate new support thingies to strengthen it, and weld in new metal. PITA. It's the last stretch of de-rusting my car though. Hopefully then it'll pass inspection and be roadworthy again

I can't get over how perfect that car is. I'm so jealous.

It's almost impossible the diff broke in such a way that it won't transmit power to the wheels, and also didn't/doesn't make any really terrible awful noises. And even with the 4eat (working properly) there's still some torque going to the rear diff. When mine was failing it would make noise when under load (either accel or decel). But if I put in the FWD fuse it went away because it was just freewheeling. It would make noise just cruising down the highway at 65. So it's mostly fwd just cruising along.

Right, one side is longer. Therefor it's UEL ... It actually has a pretty decent rumble. Pull the muffler and drive it around

Or swap in an ea81 It's a tad underpowered, but aside from changing the oil you don't really have to do anything else to it. Thing just runs and runs. Mine is great. Been wanting to EJ swap since I got it three years ago, but I can't bring myself to pulling out an engine that works perfectly.

The ea82 header is already UEL. I found out that it has quite a nice rumble and isn't too loud when the muffler gets ripped off while rally driving through the woods. An ej22 is really super annoyingly loud when it looses the muffler. And that's EL. Sounds like a rice machine.

When I go to the junk yard I pull every bolt I can get to that's in decent condition. The yard usually gives me a hand full of bolts for a couple bucks. Hell of a lot cheaper than buying them one at a time from the dealer or hardware store.

Damn dude. How can you get 500 posts in a tread with only a month and a half. Anyway, car is looking awesome! Sucks you can't get the axles off the diff. I have the same problem on my 89. I spent a lot of time beating on it and spraying it with PB. I sprayed PB blaster at the thing every day for almost 6 months. And the cups still won't come off the diff. I've given up.

My family has an outback with the ej25 in it. I was driving it years ago after I'd first gotten my license. I noticed the temp gauge was almost to the hot, but not to the line yet. Shut it off and had it towed to the shop who replaced the head gaskets. So that one was never overheated that bad, that's not nearly hot enough to hurt bearings. That engine has around 190k on it now, and runs strong and happy.