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Why do you need to replace the oil pump? I see absolutely no evidence anything is wrong here. Unless you hook a mechanical gauge to the engine and have bad results, the way your gauge operates is fairly normal. My ea82 did that for like 6 years, dropped to about zero at hot idle, rose slowly to only like 50psi on a cold start. Perfectly normal.

The back windows can't physically roll down flush with the opening, there isn't enough room in the door.

Oops, replied to wrong post. sorry I have no idea what's wrong here.

I personally wouldn't use it, especially since it looks like an offroader. The integrity of the pan has been severely compromised. Next time you take a hit, it'll probably rip the pan open instead of denting. Also it looks to be worn thin in some places, wouldn't not take much of a rock to cut through. A good skid plate should also be in your future to avoid that happening again.

It doesn't help. These gauges are notoriously inaccurate and thus provide no useful information in terms of engine health or diagnostics etc. It could be rising slowly because the gauge is tired, it could be reading low because the gauge doesn't feel like lifting the needle all the way, maybe the wiring is corroded and has high resistance which is causing a low reading. The pressure sensor could be failing and not reading correctly, etc. Do not worry about your oil pressure unless you put a good mechanical gauge on the engine to see what's actually going on. If it didn't have any oil pressure at idle I'd expect the lifters to be making a racket anyway.

The oil pressure gauges are horribly inaccurate in EA/ER cars, the gauge is pretty useless. If you're concerned about oil pressure, hook up a mechanical gauge to see what's going on.

Paint it a different colour, they'll never know

That's ridiculous, that's less oil leak than most subarus on the road. Go somewhere who doesn't wanna be a wongleflute about it. Most places in Maine don't really care about stuff like that...

Oh wow I'm a dummy, this is the old gen forum, not the new gen.... I was thinking like a 95-99 legacy. sorry... 2nd gen is late ea81 chassis, right? I've never owned one of those.

2nd gen wagons have a shoulder belt for the back seat (just lap belt for the middle). What exactly are you doing?

Use the sensors that originally came with the car. Plug up any tubes that aren't needed and you should be fine.

Cold oil pressure is completely dependent on oil temperature, and as such really isn't a useful metric when comparing to someone else's pressure. The oil pressure gauge on the dash is garbage, not accurate at all. They're OK for a relative reading, ie. it used to read 45 but now it only reads 35, but useless to compare against a different car. You'd need to hook up a good pressure gauge. Oil pumps on the ea82 almost never fail, you may have a leaky oil o-ring (cam towers, etc), or tired lifters. There's a lot of good information on it if you search.

The return to center spring, or whatever it is? you don't actually need that for it to shift properly. Disconnect the linkage at the transmission and make sure it goes into all 6 gears from the shifter shaft. Once you've confirmed it has all the gears, you'll know it's in the linakge. Or whatever. You have one of two different problems here: You screwed up and didn't install the shifter properly. Your new transmission is screwed up and doesn't shift. Figure out which of those it is.

LSD friction modifier used to be whale oil as well. I'm assuming the original atf used it for friction modification to keep bands alive.

Yea, it goes in and out, and twists back and forth. It should have 6 distinct positions for each gear (1-5 and R). Twisting is like moving shifter side to side, in/out is putting it into a gear.

It is, I did that swap the other way. Put a 98 forester transmission into an 00 outback. Either the transmission didn't shift gears before you installed it (did you check?), or you have something connected improperly.

Have you tried to get it into gear by moving the car while trying to shift to, you know, rule out a clutch issue?? Sounds like you mis-installed something, though. Take a really close look at the linkage to make sure it's correct. Maybe post a picture from under the car so we can see what's going on, etc.

I don't follow, the transmission should shift when installed. Try to roll the car as you shift the transmission to rule out a clutch issue. Next you need to make sure the linkages are hooked up properly. When you try to shift, what happens? Shifter flops around? Shifter won't move??

It should shift with the engine off, even if the clutch won't disengage. To drive the point home, with the engine off, hold the shifter in gear (trying to shift into gear) and have a helper roll the car. That should line everything up for it to drop into gear. Also do make sure the clutch fork is moving when you push the pedal, you may not have bled the master/slave cylinder properly if you took them apart. What did you recently swap, the transmission or the engine? Double check you hooked up the shift linkage, guide rod bushing, etc correctly.

When I have to remove a bit of key from a lock I use a scroll saw blade, they're super slim and you can use it to grab the chunk and pull it out. Caution not to push it all the way in, otherwise your only solution is to disassemble the tumbler entirely. If you have to do that, you need to hacksaw or dremel slots in the dead eye bolts to get the assembly off the car. If it's the same ignition as a regular EJ car, you can drill two small holes next to the brass pins on the side of the ignition. Then you can pull the pins out with a pair of needle nose, or a sharp pick or something, after doing that the tumbler just slides out and you can disassemble it. If I can find one laying around, I can take more detailed pictures on the disassembly of the tumbler, it's actually really easy.

Looks like the crank and passenger side marks line up, but the driver side is 90 degrees out. That's not good. Fortunately, no damage was done since it's a non-interference engine, putting the belt back on properly will bring it back to life. You need to figure out WHY it jumped time, though. Make sure your tensioner isn't loose and flopping around.

I wouldn't expect such a new car to use oil, how much oil does it use?

Fortunately your engine isn't interference, so if your timing belt broke nothing got hurt. Pull the driver side timing cover cap, it's held on with three 6mm bolts, you'll need a 10mm wrench.

Not easily, the only thing you could really do is use the forester bottom end between the outback heads. That's a generation split with no easy swap route.

That's a pretty typical ej25 thing to do, #1 conrod often goes out the block and pops the little EJ25 stamp off. You can swap the more reliable ej22 into your car with fairly little effort, do a search, lots of information on it.