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I don't think it would have mattered if I did that or not. The nuts were so rusted there literally wasn't any hex head on them. I cleaned them up with a wire brush looking for something to get a socket to bite, there simply wasn't anything.

It's not interference, I don't see how a bad timing belt could ruin the engine. Fix it in his driveway and take it home... Are the covers off? Can you see the belt? Just rotate the crank until the marks line up, if they do all line up correctly, then ya, something else is wrong. I bet the belt is off though.

^ I agree, the timing belt isn't on correctly.

Not direct injected. I hope subaru does that in the future. Dunno if it's interference or not, probably is. Most engines these days are to get tighter clearance in everything. It has a timing chain though, not a belt. So it isn't of much concern.

Off the top of my head flywheel is 51, and pp is 11.5.

THAT TOO!! I'm gonna weld enough of the GL to at least make it safe to drive. Really just needs new rear end and axles.

Norm's. $150. Blech, but 56k miles. It should last longer than the transmission.

At least your nuts came out. I just replaced my diff and had to sawzall the suckers off.

This would explain why it was making bad noise.

Area geographically? In that case, I have no idea. I should go to california... Or engineering... That's what I've always wanted to do.

Taking off the rear diff is actually really easy. You remove the two crossmember brace things that go under the axles (you'll see what you look under there). Take off the four bolts on the bottom of the diff, four bolts holding that plate on. The four bolts holding it to the driveshaft, and the two bolts on the back of the diff. Just drop it down and pop the axles out. You don't even need to unbolt any suspension to get it out. If a 95 has axle roll pins, punch them out. I can't remember when they changed that over, but doesn't add much complexity. The rusted stuck lat link bolts are going to be much more of a problem than the diff. Since I work on cars in Maine, I've probably had to sawzall 50% of them off... Esp the ones on the gas tank side, I'm afraid to use a torch right up next to the gas tank.

That really sucks to see I'd figure out which part of the core was leaking coolant, and crimp it off. Melt some lead into the crimp and it shouldn't leak. If it's the tank scuff it up and JB weld it.

Working on getting into computer engineering at UMO...

I have the dumb black box. So I have the tube style. But my tube is long enough it can't fall all the way in. edit... I just read what I wrote... I'm too tired to change it, but it came out sounding really bad.

Replaced the rear diff in my Legacy. Good riddance high pitched scream.

Thanks for the advise, GD. I always appreciate your opinion. I don't know how long I'll keep the car, just signed up for college. It's a good reliable car, so I'll probably drive it through college. I'll just change the belt in 60k with one of better quality to last 105k. I don't know if the automatic transmission going to last another 60k (300k miles) anyway...

Mine started as a high pitched whining only on decel,and only over about 60. Then just got worse and worse. At low speeds it was a nasty grumbly noise, high speeds it was a ear retching whine.

The idlers aren't the dual bearing type. The cogged one is, though. The timing belt doesn't have a brand stamped on it, just "Made in the USA". It's a lot stiffer than other timing belts I've bought from napa, or wherever else. I was pretty sure the kit I ordered had the seals included, maybe not. That stuff I don't really care about so much. I saw you post somewhere else about not working on cars, maybe I missed a thread. Why have you been out of the business?

Replaced the diff with a 56k unit, it's all quiet again It sucked though. I had to sawzall off the back two bolts. It wasn't any fun.

So I got the kit. I'm not impressed. They didn't include the crank or cam seals, the thermo gasket is thinner than OEM, and a paper WP gasket. Not a huge deal, I have to go to the dealer anyway for the oil pump o-ring. The WP looks flimsy... It's considerably lighter than any of my Subaru ones sitting around. It has the stamped rotor :/ Whatever, it'll probably be fine. What annoys me most is that for the two idlers, they gave me two of the single bearing kind. Not one of the dual bearing kinds for the one top right, looking at the front of the engine. Hopefully it holds up, but part of me doesn't want to have to go back in there and deal if it next year.... Not impressed so far by theimportexports kit :/

Ea82? It's just a single pole single throw switch. Hot pin in the middle. When you rock the switch one way, it gives power to the tail lights directly (to kill your battery), and the other way puts the tail lights through the ignition circuit. When mine broke I just twisted the two wires together to make it come on with ignition. Worked till I got it fixed. I can't remember off the top of my head if the right or left one is through ignition, but test it. Short the middle to the right wire, then the middle to the left wire.See which ones makes it go on and off with the key.

How the hell do all your lug studs sheer off at once!? Yikes! That's an awesome fix though

Which one? I suppose it would be worse to loose the bottom bolt. With the bottom bolt out, the caliper will want to pivot up and into the wheel. With the top one missing, the force of braking will just twist it tighter into the knuckle.

I concur. At least get a red one so when you open your hood it LOOKS high performance...

I've always wondered... Why can't you just install the belt with the driver's side cam pointing down, then install the pass. side without rotating? Does the cam not like to stay in that position? Never had an ea82.. So always wondered that.