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So I'm getting a kit with WP. Is the gasket any good, or should I go get one of the good ones from the dealer?

Thanks, there's a kit that costs a bit more with that stuff in it, I should just get that one. Didn't realize that didn't come with a WP. I've had that fail before and shred the belt... I don't know what year this engine is, but it has dual port exhaust and the old tensioner. so it's 95 or earlier. So it shouldn't be interference. Interference or not, I don't want the belt to break and leave me stranded. BTDT, no fun. If the tensioner is unlikely to fail, I'll just leave it. I'll be careful compressing it. My cam and crank seals aren't leaking now so I really don't feel like replacing them... I figured I could use the same philosophy on them as everyone takes on the rear main. Though, I don't find it particularly hard to replace the RMS. I've done a few and none have leaked. I just don't have impact tools, so getting the cam sprockets off, and torqued back on is a PITA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-1996-SUBARU-LEGACY-IMPREZA-2-2-TIMING-BELT-KIT-/300674882879?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&vxp=mtr&hash=item46019e9d3f#ht_3337wt_1154 Does that look like the right part to you guys? I have the older style tensioner. Should I also replace the piston? Or do they not fail. I didn't see any of their kits include it.

I'd be kind of surprised if low voltage would cause it to run bad. The alt completely failed on my 96. I had quite a long drive home, so I turned everything off and just kept going. My scangauge was reading 10.4v when I made it home, but ran just fine, had it's full power.

It's getting worse, and it's starting to really annoy my girlfriend. Which means it's annoying me doubly... Since it doesn't change with cornering, and the hubs aren't loose. Are there any tests I can do to check for sure if it's the diff, or not? I'd rather it be the diff... Wheel bearings suck.

Setting the torque to just before bolts strip out is just dumb. Sorry, but it is. Torque specs are there not only to keep from stripping things out, but to keep them from warping. If you bolt something together with too much torque, you can warp the part. And make it hell for the next person who works on it to get it apart.

Right, but that doesn't mean you can't swap engines around. That bracket has nothing to do with normal every day driving. Normally, your engine doesn't turn backwards. It was there for shipping. When the cars are on the truck the manuals are left in gear. As the truck moves the cars rock back and forth slightly, this will cause the engine to rotate forwards and backwards as well, it was causing them to jump timing before they even made it to the dealer. The earlier engines in manual Legacys actually didn't have that. The automatic is left in park, so obviously no connection to the engine, they didn't need that bracket. So after the car leaves the truck, that part is useless. It doesn't matter if you put an auto engine in a manual car at all.

Cruise is always disabled for CELs on the 05+ cars. It's Subaru's way of being obnoxious and making you take it in to be fixed.

Has your gas mileage gone down? Running rich will use more fuel, hurting your mileage. If it hasn't, all is probably normal. GT would have the 2.5 motor, did you swap it with another 2.5, or did you put a 2.2 in there? A 2.2 will run rich on the phase2 2.5 computer because it uses MAP to control fuel.

It didn't cause the car to run crappy for me. It caused two issues, though. And one problem which didn't make sense. First, the speedo on the dash still worked, this lead me to believe it wasn't the sensor, otherwise how would the gauge still work? That's why I went on to wiring issues. Issues were limp mode, so I couldn't rev over 3,500 or 4,000. Or whatever limp mode is, I can't remember the exact RPM. And stalling coming to a stop. My car was a 5speed, but as I came to a stop sign and pushed in the clutch, the engine would stall. Someone with an automatic talked to me and said he had the same issue stalling coming to a stop. But I wouldn't say the VSS code and the car running crappy are related, I never had crappy running while I was fighting VSS codes. It's not that hard to get the gauge cluster out of your car. Remove the trim around the gauges. Two screws in the underside of the gauge cluster cave, two under where the cruise and fog light buttons are. Then four screws hold the cluster in, they're pretty obvious once the trim is you. They're just right there in plain sight. If you have fat fingers like me, it's a little hard to get the connectors off, but it's not impossible.

Before you condemn the speed censor, take a look at this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119744

What difference does it make if the motor came out of an auto or a manual with the oil pump? The engine doesn't have anything to do with the tranny, besides of course, bolting up with flexplate or clutch.

Yikes! That's no good When I tear down my 25D, that's now what I'm expecting to see. Rockauto has a 25D crankshaft for $205 with a core charge of $100. Might be worth it if yours is beyond machining.

For contacts, you need to see an optometrist ... They're about $7 from a subaru dealer. That's where I got mine.

Cam seal, maybe. I'd be surprised if it needs a cam. Wheel bearing isn't that much of a big deal. Find out where it's leaking coolant from. If you're lucky it's the waterpump leaking. Even if it's a head gasket, it's not that hard to replace. I wouldn't condemn it for a few simple things. If the rest of the car is solid, fix it up.

If they haven't given you a hard time about them being silver with all the paint missing, I can't see why they'd give you a problem having them re-painted. If you're doing your own thing, not harming anyone. Cops usually don't care. If you get pulled over for aggressive driving, they might also give you a hard time about your plates. Cops have bigger things to worry about than some guy who properly restored his license plates.

45 is nice toasty day to be riding! At this point, above freezing is nice... I put home made studded tires on mine, and ride it on the lakes in the winter. That's always fun.

^ I put those in my car once. They're junk. It started running like crap.. Pulled them out to see three looked like this.

When I saw the title of this thread my mind immediately pictured someone getting out of work and pop their hood when the car didn't start, only to realize someone had stolen their engine...

So you do have to pay for registration and ins. I guess you can ride it almost every day so it's worth it. I don't pay a dime for legal stuff on mine. Just put a couple bucks of gas in it every other week. Although, I've been riding it around for the last week because my car has been broken. It's been around freezing, so not too cold. But it was still too cold to comfortably ride ...

The timing belt on these don't usually break. What happens is the idlers or water pump seize up or fall apart. This causes the belt to shred or jump. That's a non-interference engine though, at least it won't get ruined. My ej22 had something like 310k miles when it blew a head gasket. And that was just blowing some bubbles, not even bad yet. I don't know anything about automatic transmissions, so I can't help there. I just scream and yell in frustration when they stop working, they're controlled by voodoo and magic.

I don't understand why anyone in TX would ride a moped/scooter. Don't they have te be registered/insured the same as a motorcycle? Here in maine, if it has a 50cc or less engine, and has pedals you're free to roam. Mine is 66cc... shhhh. hah. I'd rather work on scooters all day than cars all day in Maine. I did that for a while, it really sucked. Constantly fixing rusted out exhaust, rusted out brake lines. Getting pretty much any bolt off the bottom of a car requires the torch. In the winter every car is dripping salty road grit in your face. God forbid if you have to replace a pressed in ball joint on some american car, you're in for a good hour of BFH and heating things red hot.

I wouldn't hammer on a wheel stuf. For the same reason I won't use a slide hammer installing axles. It will ruin the wheel bearings. I use a propeller puller to get the studs out. If you break the ABS tone ring (which I did replacing brakes once, long story...) you can cut a new one in half very carefully then install it. It works. You don't have to take the bearing apart, makes life happy.

First gen Legacys are cheaper, have more power, infinite more reliability, safer, ..... and on and on. Personally I'd buy it because I like unreliable old rusty subarus that break down when I'm on road trips. But I wouldn't suggest it for someone who just wants a car to get to work.

Mine is chinese. I had to take it apart and replace all the bearings and put a different carb on it for it to run properly.