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That's not going to fix rod knock. If I'm going to rebuild an engine and make it all nice, I'll do it to an SOHC 2.5. Then make an adapter plate to put a phase1 intake manifold on it.

OBD2 didn't just start around 96, it was federally mandated in 96. The 95 Legacy is OBD2, the 95 impreza isn't. At least, not the few I've worked on. Maybe a few late model ones crossed over. OBD1 vehicles don't have as many stupid codes for things like emissions, but they will still throw codes when something goes wrong.

I don't like gel or agm batteries in cars. They have a different charge curve, absorb, and float than a normal lead acid battery. Most importantly, it's a lower voltage than a normal lead acid. The regulator in the alternator doesn't know this, so it overcharges the gel/agm batteries. This ruins them, so they don't last as long as they should.

Cool! I'll pick some of the stuff up and see what happens! It'll make me cringe because I hate that type of thing, but hell! At this point why not!

Another thing to check is the ground that goes on the bell housing/starter mounting bolt. I was having cranking problems at one point that cleared up when I cleaned that.

I was thinking about the lucas stuff, although I've heard it gets frothy, or something like that. I don't have a whole lot to lose, let's call it an experiment...

For those wondering about the Extra-S. The dealer nearish me will sell it if you bring your own container. I usually clean out an old 5qt oil jug. That's enough for the transmission, rear diff, and if you spill a little bit. Or topping up if your transmission leaks. All my 5mt boxes have leaked...

With no load on the battery, it should be resting well above 12v. If it never gets above about 13.1 when charging, your alternator is on it's way out. What about when it's running at 2,000+ RPMs? Does it jump up to ~14v then? Charging at 13 is too low, it'll eventually ruin your battery never letting it charge up. Even if you're battery is old/tired, it should still have a system voltage of 14v

It does lose a little bit of oil, but I don't think it's burning it. It leaks out of the separator plate onto the exhaust. That's why it's smoking in that video... When I was putting the engine in the car I sad eff it, it's not going to last long enough to matter. haha. I basically needed the car to be running RGIHT NOW, and that's what I had. I figured it was rod knock. It had piston slap (that's now pretty much gone away, wtf?). And it also has valve noise, pretty bad. But I figured that noise was something more bad. heh. It's already run about 2.5k miles like that....

You don't need to re-program anything to swap the ECU. But It's highly unlikely that's the problems. Subarus very rarely have ECU problems. The AC systems has very many components, switches, etc that make it work. So a lot of stuff to break. Until all that stuff is tested, I wouldn't condemn the ECU. You have a button in the cabin to turn it on, fuses, a few relays in the box under the hood, pressure switches in the system to lock it out if pressure is too high or low, temp sensors, etc. The clutch on the compressor could fail, and on and on. Lots of components to fail, ECU is highly unlikely.

Is there any oil additive that'll help with bearing wear? Should I run really thick oil? Usually, I'm really opposed to magic in a bottle type fixes. But if it's going to blow up anyway, why not? Maybe it'll actually help extend the life a bit, obviously noting I add will fix the bearings... And I wouldn't be surprised if it is rod knock. The previous owner of this engine overheated it to the point of seizure, twice.

Sorry, I'm not trying to stir arguments.

^ of course putting tiny holes in them screwed them up. I can't stand mechanics who do stuff like this.

Pokin holes in the wire boots sounds like a really terrible idea. It will let spark leak out, let water in, and make a mess of expensive set of wires. They're only a year old, no way am I destroying them. My injector plugs are easy to access. It's hard to tell if it makes a difference when I pull the connectors off. It runs so rough.

It's an auto, I thought about cracked flexplate. I checked the bolts, and they're all tight. So it's not that. I can't tell where it's coming from, the valves make a lot of noise too... I'll probably send the oil off at the next oil change... if it makes it that long...

The could sound is definitely piston slap, and that's loud enough to cover this noise. I'd call this a cross between ticking and knocking. It's more pronounced than valvetrain noise, which it also has... The stethoscope is a good idea, as is checking the accessories. As you can see, the AC is disconnected as it doesn't work anyway. I can also pull injector plugs, that way the ZAP ZAP ZAP noise of spark jumping won't confuse noises. Or electrocute me I don't think it's the timing belt tensioner, since I don't have covers I can see it. It's my understanding they slap up and down when they make this noise? Mine stays rock solid, I actually got a shot of it in that vid to prove.

You don't need to swap axles for an auto to manual swap.

Ya, mine make a pretty terrible noise when it's cold. But that vid is warm. Which is why it has me slightly more concerned.

Also, I should mention. The engine is fully up to temperature in the video. I had driven it probably 20 miles prior, so oil and all that was up to operating temp.

Just wondering if you guys think this knocking noise is rod knock, or what. It does it cruising at about 3k RPMs. It did it the whole entire way from Maine to NYC, and back. It was a little disconcerting at first, but I started to ignore it.. But doesn't really do it when not under load (which is why I had to rev it a bit), and totally goes away when at WOT. I really don't think it's the tensioner flopping around, I'm running coverless and it stays perfectly put. Ignore the smoke... something is leaking oil onto the y-pipe...

That's about what my 2.5 gets ... all the more reason to do a 3.0 swap... I "fixed" my Legacy yesterday morning. I was at a friend's place overnight. Get in my car in the morning and it wouldn't start. Turn the key to start and just a single relay clicks, most likely the one that shuts off the accessories. No click from the starter (ruling out bad contacts). I kicked the fuse box, then BINGO! It fired right up... Grumble. I wonder what's melting back there. I should take it apart before it stops working. Just glad this didn't happen to the valet guy when I was staying in a hotel in NYC last week.

Well, GL isn't OBD-anything. So I wasn't using a scanner. I was using an oscilloscope right off the sensor. But I understand that not everybody just has an oscilloscope just chilling under their desk....

I doubt 5 or 10 seconds would make a difference. The fuel pump only runs 2 or 3 seconds anyway when you put the key in RUN. The fuel pump doesn't run continuously when the engine is off, that way if you crash and rupture a fuel line it doesn't sit there and pump fuel into the fire.

You could try higher octane gas. Some people say they get so much better gas milage with the stuff that it's actually more economical. I've tried it and gained a point, maybe two. But not enough to justify. You've replaced a lot of stuff, have you checked to see if the O2 censor is responding quickly, or if it's tired? I know it's not a legacy, but my GL did this. Gas mileage dropped significantly with no CEL codes. The O2 was just responding slowly when I checked it, by the time I got home from my trip to replace it, a code had been set. But it took about 2 months for that to happen.

It's just a switch, normal mode or locked mode. Pretty cool. I was going to do it to my car, but it never really snowed here this winter. I'd try doing a drain and refill of ATF a few times, changing the filter the last time. Mine was shifting kinda funny, and binding up in parking lots. It's almost perfect now.