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Lots of people run without the covers. The only failure I've seen anyone talk about is a shop rag left under the hood.

Red loctite on the crank bolts? that would be silly... I've heard it's suggested to use blue on the ea81, which I followed. But red seems overkill..

I quite like the automatic. I prefer a manual in my fun car. But in my every day car, it's awesome. It's actually easier to seat back up than a manual once you figure out a method for the TQ bolts. The only time I've ever said I HATE THE AUTOMATIC. Is when I had a seized engine... Other than that, it's been awesome. The lower tranny line on the radiator doesn't even bother me that much. I take the rad hoses off, top cooler line off, fan connectors off. Then the radiator can come partly out at an angle. At that point you have more than enough room to comfortably get two hands down there and disconnect the line. Then quickly yank the rad out and store it front down so you don't get oil all over the place..

Yep, loosen the nut in the middle of the tensioner. Don't take it all the way off, just loosen it. Then there should be a threaded rod that goes straight up. This is the tensioner system. Just loosen it until it's loose enough to get the belt off. Pretty sure it's all 12mm heads. If for some reason you can't loosen that (like it's frozen up), the tensioner bracket is held onto the AC pump bracket by two bolts. Again, pretty sure 12mm head. Take those out and the whole tensioner will come off. If the long bolt is frozen up it'll be easier to loosen it on the bench. Or possibly just replace the whole tensioner assy.

It's not an H6, those have chains. So no plastic cover. It sounds like the tensioner for the AC belt. The bearing goes bad and the tensioner starts chewing a hole in the plastic timing belt cover. This is really bad, if it eats a hole it can jam up the timing belt which will ruin your engine. I suggest immediately removing the belt for the AC before running the engine anymore. Your car has two fan belts, if you want to call them that. One runs the alternator and power steering, one runs the AC. The one that runs the AC has a tensioner, which I think is the one you're calling the water pump pulley.

Look up "brake lock diff"

EZouts are a horrible, terrible thing. In my opinion. They make more of a mess than having a stuck fastener. At best, they won't work. But more times than not they break off and cause a real mess. The TQ bolts are pretty easy to get to with the intake manifold off, I'd probably just have welded another nut to the TQ bolt.

Interesting you've been having problems with the mechanical parking brake not working. Living in Maine, there are a lot of steep hills to park on. My driveway for one. But also driving it off road, stopping on something steep or off camber the parking brake is essencial to get out and have a look. With everything properly adjusted I've never had a problem with it holding on the steepest of grades, not even with a boat trailer. Yes, I use my GL to haul boats, sometimes almost as heavy as the car. And it will hold car and boat on a steep ramp. The only problem I've had with the front parking brake is not releasing all the way and dragging the brake pads. Took it apart and cleaned it all up. Never had another problem.

Apparently Lucas transmission stuff helps too... Never done it personally. For me, 3 drain and fill sessions got rid of the torque bind. But seeing as he's had the transmission rebuilt, likely it has 100% new fluid in it, and changing the fluid isn't going to fix the problem.

If the rest of the car works decently well, just throw another engine at it. I'm sure you can get a motor with a lot more life for around $200. It's not really a very hard swap.

The coil and ignitor are one unit on that car. It should work off the phase 2 2.5. 2000+ years. It won't work off the 2.5 DOHC.

The GL one is really easy to hack for AUX in. Took me just a few minutes to hack that. I gave up on the Legacy one because of all the digital stuff I would have had to deal with for the CD hookup. That's why the make the removable face things on the aftermarket radios. I'm not worried about anyone stealing a crappy JVC unit though...

If the clutch cable broke they'd be saying the clutch pedal was stuck to the floor... And it would grind trying to get it into gear with the motor running. Or take off if you started it in gear... Been there, dealt with that.

Doubt the 95 has SLAs because my 96 had HLAs. They didn't like really cold weather. I know that engine I have a pic of up there is def a 97 or 98 because of the PCV and canister routing.

If the clutch is totally 100% gone and failed it might be going into gear. But since it didn't move they didn't see the difference between going into gear, and the clutch engaging. But that's a damn awesome price! I'm jealous.

Good idea about just pulling the stub out. I think it's an E8. How do I jam it up from turning with it all removed from the car? I'm not sure if it's possible to fix all the rust on the car, so likely I'm going to strip it all to swap to a new body. So I'll probably end up having to do it off car. And yes, working on cars in Maine takes a different level of abuse.

This is a 97 or 98 (honestly don't know.. seller didn't either). But it's RR and SLA.

It's like 4 bolts to get the PS pump off. As Fox said, get a used unit. They don't really fail very often so there isn't a high demand.

How though? There isn't a good way to get a BFH to the cup though. The diff does a good job blocking getting a nice direct blow.

oops wrong thread...

I'm trying to get an axle off my rear diff, and it's wicked stuck. Roll pin came out with a mammoth amount of force, but now the axle is stuck right fast. What is the secret trick to getting it off?

Gas mileage in the winter sucks. You say you're in MA. So you get crappy winter blend fuel. That with letting the car warm up in the morning, etc. It kills gas mileage. Between mid summer and mid winter I'll probably have a 3+ mpg difference on any given car. Checking and adding oil at the gas station really isn't a big deal... Valve guide seals won't be fun on that... It's really super cramped up working on those.

The first thing I thought when reading that is the wire grounded. I doubt it's possible for the engine to overheat that much in a few seconds, then immediately drop right back down.

It's generally agreed that if the knocking noise goes away when the engine is warmed up, and doesn't knock when it's under load. The engine is fine. Now if you're getting a knocking under load... that's bad. Rod bearing most likely.

Just a note about doing the rear diff. Pull the top plug first. If you pull the bottom one all the oil drains out. Then if you can't get the top one out, you're screwed. I use a syringe to fill the rear diff. If it's cold in your part of the world heat your gear oil up inside by your heater for a while first. Gear oil is very thick when it's cold. Same goes for changing it. Probably a good idea to drive the car 10 miles or so before hand just to get the temp in the diffs up a little bit. The old oil will drain out a lot faster.