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Does it have a single pin connector on one end? Often there are diag connectors under the dash, I'm not sure on that car what colour it would be, etc.

The seal can't be very expensive, what do you have to loose by replacing it? Never know, it might work.

A 17mm wrench. Unless someone has a better decision. If you don't care about destroying the censor, you could always just grab it with vicegrips and rip it out.

Start by PB blastering it every day for a week. Those suckers are in there tight, and a crappy place to get to with the transmission in the car.

Take the sensor out and look if the thing is turning in the transmission. If it is, it's probably the censor or wiring. I actually just got a VSS today for $15 at a local yard, they don't fail often. So used is a good route. Are you getting a p0500? I had this issue, and wrote a fix for it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119744

Jeremy Clarkson said something like that. Cars would be much for fuel efficient if they didn't have brakes :cool:

now THAT is a whole long debate...

I use a 2.5" sched 40 PVC adapter to drive the new ones in. It works like a charm.

There was actually a thread like this the other day. You can't.

I've read about the tow hooks. Something about the airbag system being too sensitive. And if you hit them into a curb while parking it sent the airbags off. So the dealer fixed this by grinding them off.

So is Bosch really the OEM? Or is it Denso?

A friend and I did this to get a junk yard motor out. Used seat belts out of the car and a driveshaft as the pole.

^^ huh? Look at a car that comes OEM with bi-xenon projectors. The lenses are clear. There's a little shield thing inside the projector. When it's in low beam mode the shield is down blocking off most of the light. That shield is what makes the sharp cutoff on projectors. When it's in high beam mode, the shield goes up. This allows the light to go all over the place and light up the road. And yes, blinds other drivers. That's why you put it on low beam for oncoming traffic. This is how cars that come from the factory with projectors work. He hasn't done anything wrong here.. Some cars, like newer subarus have a projector and a reflector. The projector has a fixed cutoff shield in it. Basically just the low beam portion of what he has. Then for high beams there's a regular halogen in a reflector that comes on. And that spews light all over the road.

I'd start by cleaning the underside up really well so there isn't oil all over the place. Then let it run for a bit without driving it. If it's leaking that badly, it should leak while idling, or holding it at cruising RPMs. While you're driving all the fluid that's leaking is blowing down to the back of the transmission and making a really big mess. If you start with a clean transmission it will be easier to pinpoint the leak.

Of course they warmed up to their proper colour after a minute or two, that's how they work That's a lot better than the stupid blue mine are, and 6000k isn't really even THAT blue. I'd go for 5000k next time. Is your bottom picture on low beam? Because I don't see a nice cutoff at all.

My Legacy is always for sale. If someone offered me the right price I'd probably hand over the title on the spot.... But nobody is going to offer what it's worth to me. Because it's a pile of junk, and I love it. haha.

Well if you have a tape deck you can get one of those adapters. I've had a cheap JVC unit for about three or four years now between two different cars. I leave the key in the ignition of my car where I live. If I'm at the grocery store, work, home, the key stays in the car. When I'm in big cities I'll pop the face off the radio and throw it under the seat so it's not a thief magnet. To each their own though.

If you diff oil hasn't changed level, an the oil hasn't discoloured that means it's not getting ATF leaking into it. The diff level has nothing to do with the ATF level as long as the seal doesn't leak. Not sure why that's surprising you. Can you pinpoint where the ATF is leaking from? The first thing I'd check is the cooler lines to the radiator. There are a few pieces of hose. So you have a bunch of hose clamps and hose that can get old and cracked.

Aftermarket head units are so cheap now, there's hardly a reason to try to make some OEM one work. Go to a car audio store (or internet) and get the wiring harness for your car. Basically it's the plug that plugs into the stock wiring harness with bare wires coming out of it. The head unit will come with its own wiring harness. Both should come with a diagram of which wire colours go to what (speakers, power, etc). Splice them together, and done. It took me probably 10 minutes to have my aftermaket unit wired up. It really is easy.

OK. Now it makes sense... A lot more sense. Had I realized it wasn't like an EJ head I wouldn't be confused there.

I think he's confused about the same thing that I'm confused about. If you take a head for the right side of the engine, and put it on the left side of the engine. Obviously you need to keep it right side up. Intake on top, exhaust on bottom. Now to do that, the cam sprocket would be on the wrong end.

Are you sure it's rod knock? There's a good chance it's just typical valvetrain clatter.

That's cool the adjustments still work. Nothing pisses me off more than some schmuck who did a terrible job installing HIDs (usually in reflectors) and blinds me in the dark... I'd probably do 5000k or 5500k on mine. I have 6000k in my JDM projectors now, and it's too blue. Wouldn't say I lost output over halogens, but definitely didn't gain any.

He said he was doing 4300k, that's just a tad more blue than halogens. He also said it was 3 deg out. He probably just turned them on, and they haven't warmed up yet. HIDs are quite blue and dim when they're cold. When it's really cold out they can take a minute or two to come up to temperature.

Meant to say wish it WASN'T 15 deg out. haha. So I assume you can still adjust the lights with the stock adjusters, because the projectors are affixed to the stock reflector?