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987687

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Everything posted by 987687

  1. Meant to say wish it WASN'T 15 deg out. haha. So I assume you can still adjust the lights with the stock adjusters, because the projectors are affixed to the stock reflector?
  2. Those lights are awesome. I really need to do that with my black 2nd gen. Let's see, what have I done today... Put expensive gas in my car... Stupid gas prices. stop going up Changed the rear diff oil trying to make a noise go away. Wished it was 15 deg out so I could wash the nasty salt off my car.
  3. Ya, the hubs weren't hot or anything like that. So it's hard to say what the hell is causing it. This kind of thing just annoys the hell out of me, that's all.
  4. I had a really stuck one once. I put the wheel back on. Put the breaker bar on the axle nut. Put a little skid type thing on the end of the breaker bar and actually drove the car. It sort of lifted the wheel off the ground a bit. Then I stepped on the gas some more and BANG!!! It came loose. It was probably a really stupid way of getting it off. but it worked. heh.
  5. So I pulled a fresh bottle of gear oil out of the store room... Brewed it for half an hour by the fireplace The level was just a touch low, but not that bad. The oil that came out was a rich amber colour. But not black. It still had a nice viscosity too. I'd driven the car about 15 miles prior to draining, and it wasn't hot/over heated. It was just a tad warm. It's about 15 deg out... The magnetic plug on the bottom only had a very fine dusting on it, not a huge mountain like I was dreading. All in all, it looked a lot better than I was expecting. Looked inside the holes with a flashlight, and the gears all look fine. No scoring or anything like that on the gear faces. I was expecting it to look like the black watery stuff that came out of the front diff... Anyway, went on a test ride. And I can't say if the noise has really changed any. But I don't think it's the diff, just because the oil looked fine, no metal, and the gears looked good. I don't know what it could be now... I'll have to do some more experimenting around..
  6. Here in the US (at least in Maine) doing this would be illegal. It states, very clearly, in the safety inspection manual that a car MUST have a secondary mechanical braking system. I suppose you could add this system if you wanted, as long as you still had a mechanical system in place.
  7. It's gonna be well below freezing today. I'll put the gear oil in the house by the fireplace for a little while before hand
  8. I changed it in the GL trying to do this. There's no way to get the bottle up there because the gas tank is in the way. I ended up having to put it in a little container and fill it tiny bits at a time. It wasn't any fun. Maybe the Legacy is different... I'm also not sure I'll get the plugs out. They completely rusted to death. That's why I haven't done anything with it... heh. I have a nice collection if diffs though, so if those plugs strip out I'll just put a different cover on it.
  9. Yep, I've never un-staked those. A punch is probably the best tool if you want to though. I just put the breaker bar on the nut and jump on it. It'll come off.
  10. So tonight I did more playing around on my drive back from a date... It almost completely goes away coasting in N. So ya... diff maybe. I gave away my spare 4.44 diff a while ago.... I'll see if I can get the top drain plug out tomorrow and take a look at the gear oil. I'll need to get a pump to change it, it's a real pain to fill them up without having a pump... been there, done that. If the diff is bad maybe I'll try to get a 4.44 LSD out of a FXT
  11. I've sawzalled a lot of the $22 bolts out. Because since the inner lat link bolts never come out, it's easier. And the last job I did on my car was sawzall the bell housing off a seized engine... There isn't much that's a bigger pain in the rump roast than that.
  12. I can get the whole thing at a local wrecking yard for about $40. But doesn't come with lat links, so I'd still have to get the big bolt out. If I go the route of pulling the lat links off, I usually have to cut the bolts off the inside. Really can't win up here with the level of rusty stuff.
  13. I'm not going to replace it with a junk yard part. I don't want to have to deal with it again. It's not the end of the world getting the spindle off, I've done it enough times working at a shop. I've even replaced rear bearings. But working at the shop I had a press and all the right sized dies to press the bearings properly. Now I'd just take the parts to a local machine shop and have them do it, they'd probably only charge $40 for a job like that. The guy does all the bearing work for a few small garages and knows what he's doing with bearings, so I trust him not to screw it up. I have a small cramped up garage with a reddy heater, if it's blowing at me I don't freeze. And I have other cars to drive. I'll just let it be for a while, bearings can go a very long time before they do any damage to the spindle. $2500
  14. WOW that's cheap!! Friend of mine was T-boned in his 06ish STi. The guy's insurance payed for it, but it came out to about $2000 just in frame work alone.
  15. Swapped the back wheels. The noise persists... Didn't change anything. No backing plate rubbing or anything. There actually isn't much backing plate left... Rusty rusty. It makes slightly less noise cornering left, which I find odd. But it doesn't get louder cornering right. I suppose if it is a wheel bearing it's not very bad and can probably go many thousand miles before it's a real problem. I don't mind doing it in summer when I can ride my moped around, etc. I hate doing work like this when it's freezing cold out.
  16. Welcome! The car looks nice. And it's totally possible to lift it and have fun on a budget. Get a small welder for a couple hundred on craigslist and teach yourself to use it. There are some good vids on youtube. It isn't that hard.
  17. Huh, now there's a good thought! It does kind of sound like a tire wear thing, it's that type of sound more than anything. I'll go do that now. They are old RE92a tires that I got for free...
  18. Could be the backing plate. I can take a quick look. I don't think the axles are leaking any, but I have a bunch of spares (because they never fail...). So if one is bad, that's not a big deal. It doesn't have the same grumbly sound a wheel bearing makes. But then I REALLY don't want it to be a wheel bearing. I'll try doing some cornering while it's making the sound. I absolutely hate getting those rear knuckles off. I always have to saw the damn long bolt into three pieces and destroy the bushings... Isn't it wonderful working on cars in maine.... Car has 242,000 miles. With the failure rate of rear wheel bearings on these cars, it's probably been done before.
  19. My 98 legacy has contracted a weird issue it didn't have before it sat for 5 months. When I decelerate there's a sort of whirring noise from the back right wheel. It doesn't do it when driving a constant speed or accelerating, just decelerating foot off the gas. It isn't related to the brakes, if I push the brakes or pull the parking brake handle the noise persists, and doesn't change at all. So probably not anything to do with brakes. Furthermore, if I push the brakes, and push the gas at the same time (but still slowing down) the noise is still there. If I then push the gas a bit more to maintain a constant speed, the noise goes away. Also, it doesn't matter what gear the automatic transmission is in. If I put it in N going up a hill, it'll make the noise as it slows down. Maybe just a bit quieter. There's no play in the wheel, no handling problems. I took the caliper off. Slide pins are free, pads move freely. Greased it all up anyway. Took off the rotor. Parking brake isn't rubbing and it's all working properly. Also, by whirring noise, it's more of a cross between the sound of a wheel bearing and brakes dragging. It's not the kind of whirring a bad diff makes. What could this possibly be?
  20. My SPFI does this too. I bet all cars do it to some extent, these just have really loud pumps. If you watch the voltage gauge on the dash it probably dances up and down with the blinker. If you rev the engine up to about 1500 RPMs it will probably stop fluctuating the voltage because the alternator is putting out more juice. It has more to do with bad wiring than anything else. I've had to re-wire some stuff in my car due to corroded wires, or just upping the gauge so I didn't get voltage drop.
  21. Only thing I've run into swapping computers around is EVAP codes. Took a computer from a 97 legacy (charcoal canister under hood), and put it in a 98 (canister by back wheel). And it threw an EVAP code. Put the 98 computer back in the 98, the code went away. So that, and probably EGR are the important things to match up swapping the computers.
  22. No way at all it costs autocheck $30 to run a VIN search. They just charge that much because they can. Between paying for the price of hard drive space for your vehicle, server query time, and bandwidth to render a text based page. I'd be surprised if it cost them ten cents. Dealers don't pay per query. They pay a flat rate bill per month. I doubt autocheck keeps track of which, and how many VIN searches are done through each dealer. As Idasho said, there are so many dealers it's not worth it. The other part of it, and you'll find this with a lot of computer software is the percentage of people who can use a work-around. I bet autocheck knows there's a little back door to get free VIN checks. But so few people can actually figure it out or use it, it's negligible. They're losing less money to a few thousand people going around the system than they would to re-design the whole thing. That requires hours of meetings, people yelling at each other.... etc. Work with end users some time in the computer field... It's surprising how many people couldn't copy a VIN into a URL.
  23. ^^ agreed. Even if the software releases a software update that only allows searching vehicles currently in their lot, the place will take three years to update. Most IT depts say "It's working, don't mess with it!" Why do you think so many businesses and people still use windows XP. That came out in what, 2001?
  24. Are you measuring oil pressure by the gauge on the dash? That gauge is crap. If it moves, that means you have oil pressure. Think of it as the oil idiot light turning off. It's not useful for much more than that. That's not the proper way to get a head bolt out. Head bolts are pretty stretchy and bendy. If you try to impact them out, they won't come out. They'll probably break off with enough impact abuse. You need to get them out using constant pressure. Like a breaker bar.
  25. Looking good! Are those the morimito (however it's spelled) mini projectors? I have the JDM projector lights in my 2nd gen now, but I want to take the stock lights and do this. Because it just looks so damn awesome.
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